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couple of engine shots


Rumnhammer

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Just wanted to post a couple of engine shots of the RB in place, disregard the bit of T-shirt on the crankcase vent, it's just temporary as the little K&N filter we are putting on there is back ordered.

The rest of the car is a work in progress (needs to the body shop next) so I'll hold off on overall shots for now. I have to tell people the Han Solo quote. "She may not look like much kid, but she's got it where it counts, and I've made a few special modifications myself, so if you'll just get on board we'll get out of here".;)

 

RBZ1003.jpg

 

 

RBZ1002.jpg

 

Chris Rummel

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Well, after the first test drive today, I'm a bit dissapointed, low speed driveability is poor, it is hard to build revs and it falls off to stalling much more easily then it should. :emo: I also have a bit of a driveshaft problem, but that is fixable. Once the car is reved up and on boost, it takes off like a bat out of hell, and that is at stock boost. I'm thinking that the vent to atmosphere BOV is part of the problem, but then it is not stumbling at idle, just taking a really long time to recover to idle after reving. :confused:

After scratching my head awhile, I remembered this post with Myron asking me about the VTC, and when I replied above, I just checked the basic schematic that I checked before, when I assumed the fuel injectors were powered up. So tonight I got out the trusty test light and assuming that the VTC had power tested the power wire to it with the ignition on............hmmmm no power, then I checked the secondary schematic that has the wire color and # of the power wire that goes to the VTC. According to the secondary schematic (the one I trust more now) the VTC power wire DOES NOT connect to the power wires off the eccs instead it goes to the big white connector presumably to connect to power in the car. Also this same wire blue/white stripe is also the power to the AAC valve, and the power to the O2 sensor......hmmm now this is starting to make sense, (also why it is running so rich at idle). So now I'm going to power that wire up and see what happens. I'm willing to bet that my low speed drivablity problem should be cleared up quite a bit after that! :?

Chris Rummel

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Oh, good. I brought up that VTC thing just out of the blue and it happend to be one of your problems, am I a psycic or what?

 

Yeah, now I remember. The VTC is connected to the O_2 sensor and AAC valve. check n make sure your getting power and let us know how that engine runs.

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I powered up the wire, and will test start it this afternoon, after checking the trouble shooting in the DVD manual I have, probably 95% of the problems I was experiencing had to do with the AAC valve, I'll fire it up this afternoon and see, then post back.

Chris Rummel

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So I started it up yesterday, and some things good and still have questions about others. First with the AAC powered up now, after the engine is warmed up, it runs smoother, (probably due to the 02 sensor getting power now) and much less fumey at idle, I'm not getting gassed out anymore. Also now that the AAC is getting power I backed the throttle body screw all the way closed since the ecu is supposed to control the idle via the AAC compleatly, and once warmed up it drops down to a decent idle abet high around 800rpm, where as before without the AAC powered, the idle would drop off and stall the engine, without bumping it up artificially with the throttle body screw. So at that point i was thinking I was good to go, but then I tried reving the engine to see how it would do, and it is still having a hard time settling back into an Idle after reving. Like nearly stalling and then taking probably 10 or 15 seconds to recover. So I refered back to the manual trouble shooting and I may try to adjust the idle screw on the AAC down a bit to see if I can get it down to 650, then check the timing. After that I think I might be at a loss as far as stabilizing the idle at least with the stock ecu. We are already looking into a fully programable replacement that will delete the MAF and convert to a MAP sensor.

I was reading in the trouble shooting that disconnecting the throttle position sensor opens the AAC up to adjustment so it can take a "SET" so to speak, anybody confirm this? if so then maybe after I try this to adjust the idle it will use this to base the recovery idle on??? :confused:

Guess I'll have to try and see.

Chris Rummel

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I think your refering to the throttle position switch, which you dont even need, so dont bother.

 

check the air regulator. It might help?

 

also, is the idle bouncing up and down, or is it just low where it wants to stall?

 

I know Nissans dont do so well when you dont re-circulate the blow off air. Si maybe try recirculating if you can.

 

I never had any luck messing with the AAC valve, I would put it back where it was and try elsewhere.

 

Good luck

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The air regulator seems fine, since it starts when cold, and idle slows when it warms up.

 

The throttle possition switch seems pretty important according to the manual, apparently you disconnect the TPS harness connector to interupt the throttle feedback and open up the AAC to adjustment, it is also referenced to allow the timing to be adjusted. What info do you have that says it is not important?

 

Basically, what is happening is the car will start and idle fine, once warmed up, the idle comes down, from around 1krpm to about 800 and will idle fine at that point, if you rev the car at that point and let it go back to idle, it almost dies, and will sometimes stall, if it doesn't stall the I get about 10 seconds or so of the idle hunting before it finally settles back to a regular idle.

I don't think the BOv is to blame, since this happens even with minor reving, below the point where the BOV will vent, for instance I can rev it up slow, without the BOv venting and in letting it go back to idle it will still do it.

I was unable to do adjustments this evening, but I want to try getting the idle near 650rpm like it is supposed to be and then check the timing, since I did replace the timing belt and had the CAS out and have not rechecked the timing yet.

Chris Rummel

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well, I know the manual says to dicon the tps for timing and aac, But I have a friend who's been doing all the nissan swaps for 15+ years now and he told me you dont need it. maybe he just got lazy? Ive been problem free without it, and i can adust my ign timing and aac fine with out the tps.

 

have you checked your fuel pressure? My car had the same symtom when i first got it running. the idle would be fine from first starting it, then if i just moved the throttle a tiny bit, the idle would drop down to 400- and black smoke would pour out the exhaust. My problem was too much FP. I used a biggr fuel return line and got a Nismo FPR and that solved the problem. also check Ign timing? vac/boost pipe leaks? leaks before MAF to turbo?

 

I think your getting closer Chris. Keep tyring, and good luck!

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Hmm I'm going to try and sort a few things this afternoon, I know that there arent' any boost/vac leaks for sure. Not sure about the fuel pressure, the return line is the same size on the Z as it was on the skyline clip, so if it is anything I'm guessing it would be the fuel pressure regulator, this is a very possible problem, since I remember Zdrifter had a problem like this and it was solved with an adjustable regulator. I say it is possible because, the stock RB uses a Fuel pump control module to regulate the voltage to the fuel pump to help with the pressure, I have the pump wired with 10 gauge wire for the purpose of having plenty of juice for flow. The FPCM is located in the rear of the skyline, so you dont' get it with your clip......... I have a fuel pressure gauge that came with my turbo kit for my miata, that I can plumb inline at the fuel rail to see what pressure I have. Where did you get your Nismo regulator? from Shea? I'm guessing the Nismo regulator is adjustable?

I know I'll get it going, just kind of frustrating to be this close to a decent test drive.:?

I'm thinking this car is going to scream when it is sorted though. Also I'll add to the swap pages with these little gremlins when I'm done too.

Chris Rummel

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Myron, my man I believe you are correct sir! I havent' plumbed in a gauge on the fuel rail yet, but i'm thinking I don't need to. I sorted out the idle adjustment and checked and adjusted the timing all that is good.

Still fumy at idle, the car revs up just fine, but going back to idle it is really bogging down, and blowing black smoke out the exhaust with a nice soot layer inside the tail pipe now. It is definatly super rich, So I need some info on the Nismo FPR. Is it adjustable? how much is it?, part #? where is the best place to get it? Also does it mount in the stock location in lieu of the stock one? I'm all about factory replacement stuff.

 

I'm thinking that all that do this swap should be aware that without the fpcm, you will likely experince this problem. Once I get this in and adjusted I'll add it to the swap pages.

Chris Rummel

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Myron, my man I believe you are correct sir! I havent' plumbed in a gauge on the fuel rail yet, but i'm thinking I don't need to. I sorted out the idle adjustment and checked and adjusted the timing all that is good.

Still fumy at idle, the car revs up just fine, but going back to idle it is really bogging down, and blowing black smoke out the exhaust with a nice soot layer inside the tail pipe now. It is definatly super rich, So I need some info on the Nismo FPR. Is it adjustable? how much is it?, part #? where is the best place to get it? Also does it mount in the stock location in lieu of the stock one? I'm all about factory replacement stuff.

 

I'm thinking that all that do this swap should be aware that without the fpcm, you will likely experince this problem. Once I get this in and adjusted I'll add it to the swap pages.

Chris Rummel

 

 

Yes, the Nismo FPR is adjustable. Part number : 22670-RR580-US

Its meant for an RB26 but it fits right into the stock location with no fabbing for the RB25 also. It ran me $120.00. I dont think youl have a problem shopping around for it.

 

I was considering other FPR because the nismo one is dahm expensive for such a simple part that doesnt event have a pressure gauge. But if you add it up, it's alot simpler to just bolt on a part than to find new fittings, hoses, clamps and all that stuff.

 

Youl need a gauge to check the pressure. I set mine at 36 ish at idle speed, and spikes up around 42ish max at any rpm above that.

 

Now these number i got form a friend with a Z32, I really dont know what the pressure is suppost to be at.

 

If anyone knows, that would be great!

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You are the man, my friend! I found it at a place in AZ for $107.00 I'll order it tomorrow. I also found an article about the stock regulator that says the problem is that the stock one has a hard time properly releasing fuel back into the return line, this causes extreme pressure in the fuel rail and floods the engine, which is precisely the way the engine is acting, it is flooding the engine with way too much fuel until (I'm assuming ) the pressure equlizes in the rail and the idle can recover.

I'll have my friend order it.

Chris Rummel

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