Guest Anonymous Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 Well, here's an update. Replaced more of the floor than I thought I'd have to. But it's done and it feels great!. I can only imagine the "feel" when I put a V8 in it. Many thanks to Pete's marathon site for info on that procedure. Replaced the floors with 16 gauge steel and used a 2"x2" sq tube run straight back from the front frame rail. When it comes time to fab the trans mount I think I'll run a rail all the way to the rocker for added support. BLKMGK, thanks for your engine input, and as you know I've decided to go with a 331 stroker with AFR heads and all forged parts for future power adders. Anyway, that's my status right now. Engine should come in a month or so... Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 Jumbo, I just did my floors and frames too . WOW 16 gauge sheet metal, that is plenty thick, I used 18 gauge and thought I was going overboard. I used 1 x 3 rectangular tubing (.085 wall) and I can now balance the car with the jack (and a piece of 2x4) supporting just under the seat area with zero chassis droop Boy wait until the cage is in...this thing is going to be rigid Would have had the cage in by now 'cept the dang IC board on the welder blew, so no wire feed . Fixed now so this weekend in goes the 8 point. BTW... For U guys who have installed the S&W cage, where did you mount the main hoop? Looks like it will fit nicely in the hollow where the stock belt retractors used to be? Figured I would weld the 6x6 plate over that hollow, with the roll tube going through it, so the hoop will be welded in two places on each side, once in the hollow (at the end of the hoop) and once to the 6x6 plate (which will have a hole cut into it where the hoop will go through into the hollow). Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 Sound good, why don't u post those pics. That's a cool idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 Here's a link...hope it works!!! Tim240Z's undercarriage pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 16, 2001 Share Posted October 16, 2001 Hey Fairlady, If your ever out up north in the santa rosa area let me know. I need a ride in one of them V8's and also seeing one would help in putting the whole project into prespective of what it will take. I read all the JTR, almost memorized it but still need the pictures and actually seeing one, man thing, u know how it is. I got a 72 240 and planning on dropping in a V8 soon. How come none of you guys came to the show at Smitty's in Rohnert Park. I was there and saw lots of 510's, Z's, but no V8 ones. When I get my V8 done I'm gonna go to every purest datsun show to say here's what my version of a Datsun is. Hey, its a car show u don't have to be a purest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 I also went for the 18 gauge. I kinda went overboard with 2x3 for the frame connectors. I welded in the front and bolted to the back, took 1/4 steel plates top and bottom. I haven't checked flex yet but it should be solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Thanks Tim240Z, Got a question for u subframe/frame dudes. When you did them did you have the car on dullies or what? Tim240Z, I will try doing it with ur examples first then if I fail your the man. I'm gonna do it in my two car garage laying on my back with the car up on stands. I'm planning on cutting the frame from where it starts to bend under the floors to the surface of the floor, grind it clean, then lay up with some jacks my sqare frames, and tack weld to hold in place while i finish the welding. Is it going to be ok with the weight of the car when i have the frame cut like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Zeezee, As U can see from the pictures, the car is completely stripped, so it weighs almost nothing. I can pick up either end with little effort (and 1 hand), so with the car on the rotisserie, I very much doubt that there would be any flex. The only way, at this point, to be sure would be to put it on a frame jig at a bodyshop. If your car isn't completely empty, do one side at a time and support it well. I can't imagine doing all that welding under the car....it was bad enough with the car on it's side. I overlapped the sheet metal and welded inside and under the car. Sould be plenty strong! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 im planning to do mine on a frame rack here at the shop over a five weeknights span sometime in the next month or so, im going with the 2x3 tubular as well, too much is better than too little, and these 240s have too little frame rail to be comfortable. thicker floors is nice too, i want this puppy rock solid, oh yes. i dont know if doing it on jack stands is wise, wont there be a lot of strain on the middle of the car as you start taking out what little frame there is on these cars? just my thoughts if im in santa rosa ill holler.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 You might want to cut out one side repair it then do the other side when I was in tech school a guy had a rusty 66 mudstain up on stands to repair the rockers. He cut out both sides and both rockers inner and outer. needless to say he ruined a decent chassis. It folded like a napkin. But the world is a better place now one less rustang to get in my way. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Thank goodness for the response. I may call upon you someday TIM240Z and Fairylady. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 I welded from underneath and did a horrible job! Never again will I do it that way... Tim240z, I DO have the pictures up! They're just hard to find...really bad pictures too. http://v8zcar.topcities.com/s30z/chas.htm Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 My Bad How about cage pics... Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Wow, lots of discussion in 24 hrs. Sorry I got back late... Fairlady, Brother, I WORK in SF now and take BART. It's nice, don't have to drive the car. I did take some pics (analog) but it's better if you see it. Email me and we'll hook-up. I'll drive the car in one day. Tim240z: It looks like you fabed it the same way I did. Sep the 2x2 I used was .125 wall thickness. Heh, I'm gonna try that balancing thing! Anyway, I figure with the 16 gauge it would be nice and tight. Not too much xtra weight, plus it's centered on the car. Dude I sealed that thing with pro-15, silicone, and undercoat! YeeHaa! zeezee: I'd be more than happy to fab up some stuff for you and I'm pretty close to you) but like Tim240 said, yah gotta bring the car to me unless you got a nice solid bench vise and can get the car at least 18" off the ground. Also, my garage is gonna be occupied with MY z for the next few months but after that, let's do it! BTW, I did one side at a time. Supported the car by the front crossmember and rear hollows. I was concerned about the "flex" also but not anymore. I don't think the car bent at all. All I did was cover the interior with an old bed sheet. Did one side one weekend and the other the next weekend. You guys with the cages: How tight did the SW cage fit? Did you use a tubing notcher to cut the ends or grind them and was it a pain? Landis: I was considering putting a bolt through the back also. The crossmember that it's welded to seems thin. I would weld the plates you used to the body. And guys, heres a tip: Ever wonder how you'd clamp those far corners tight enough to make a good weld? They don't make a vise grip big enough. I drilled out 1/8 holes and screwed the sucker together tight and then welded up the floor. Then just weld the screws. Heh, it was an epiphany for me. Anyway thought I'd share that for future fabbers. Bye. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Man, you guys got some serious stuff going. Would the both of you guys be willing to do someone else less fortunates car, I'll provide the materials, beer, and conversation. Off course some $ as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 hey jumbo, have you moved over to the frisco city by the bay yet, man im dying to see those subframes, havent really done much in the way of that yet, z just been hanging out in the garage, work and stuff, but im planning on running an H shaped subframe down there with some nice floors, got some pics? even better, lemme see the dang thing, and good work!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Originally posted by Tim240Z:BTW... For U guys who have installed the S&W cage, where did you mount the main hoop? Looks like it will fit nicely in the hollow where the stock belt retractors used to be? Figured I would weld the 6x6 plate over that hollow, with the roll tube going through it, so the hoop will be welded in two places on each side, once in the hollow (at the end of the hoop) and once to the 6x6 plate (which will have a hole cut into it where the hoop will go through into the hollow). This is where I mounted my main hoop also. Your idea sounds good, what I did was cut the plate and bend it to fit inside the hollow, welded it in, then welded the hoop to it. I leaned the hoop back so it was at the same angle as the front of the quarter window. This also alowed me to weld the hoop at the top of the hollow were the hoop leaned on. In this position you're going to have to notch back the center bar. Check my site for pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 quote Would the both of you guys be willing to do someone else less fortunates car, I'll provide the materials, beer, and conversation. Off course some $ as well. Zeezee, No problem....you'll have to get your car down to my place though! It took me 2 days to finish mine. I can send pictures of what it looks like if you want. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Tim240Z, I mounted mine in the hollow as well. Did the same as MikeKZ but didn't have to notch back the center bar. I did the diagonal (centerbar - hoop intersection) down to land on the top of the subframe connector on the back shelf. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Owen, No pitures on your site yet....quit slacking and get some up there . Question: By mounting the cross bar in the hoop as per S&W instructions, does that interfere with the seats? Mike is that why you spaced it back? I want to connect my harness to that cross bar, so I don't want it too far back With the standard location of the cross bar, how far forward is the seat? I don't have my seats yet (still looking for a good deal), so I dont know. I also have zero interior, so even with a seat in place, I wouldn't be able to accurately judge steering location, unless I mounted the seat in my stock daily driver first. BTW, I have a contact at Simpson, so the harnesses are going to be a DEAL. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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