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recomended MSnSe


Turbo280Z

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ok, i'm not one to say "search" very often, but this is way to general of a question. What do you have in mind? you will need to do alot of reading, and ultimately you will decide on your own exactly what MS system you want.

 

Any of the MS systems will work, its just a matter of what you want.

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I think the basic choices are:

 

MSI processor, V2.2 board, MSnS_Extra code

 

or

 

MSI processor, V3 board, MSnS_Extra code

 

or

 

MSII processor, V3 board, MSII code

 

The tradeoffs in general are:

 

V2.2 board is cheaper, but not built as well as V3

 

MSII is a more powerful processor, but MSnS_Extra code does not run on it yet

 

Looks like the winner for today is MSnS_Extra on MSI processor, V3 board

 

But maybe for your paticular setup MSII has all the features you need??

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If you are considering spending the huge $$$ for a Haltech - spring for the top of the line - pre-assembled MS1 - v3.0 unit (MS&SE) with a relay board and wire loom from RS-Autosport (the wire loom is well worth the cash!).

 

Make sure you tell Steve what distributor you are going to use (high to low / low to high)... If you are running MS&SE - there are two different ways to wire up the tach input. Trust me - I know all about this topic!

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If you are considering spending the huge $$$ for a Haltech - spring for the top of the line - pre-assembled MS1 - v3.0 unit

 

trwebb26.

I really wouldn't consider MS to be on par with Haltech... not sure if thats what you're implying? MS still has a lot of maturing to do. Haltech is a much more refined system.

 

Turbo280Z,

Buy the best you can afford. If you can afford Haltech and you've narrowed your selection to these two systems (there are MANY other fine systems) then buy the Haltech.

 

If you're new to aftermarket EFI, and I'm assuming you are, then I might recommend SDS. Its easy to install, easy to use and will likely provide better results than MS. Its drawback is that its limited in terms of growth. More money than MS but less than Haltech. Wolf3D is slightly more expensive then SDS (still less then Haltech) and is a VERY flexible/powerful system. The list go's on...

 

If you haven't already, do your homework.

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It may be more "refined" - but it does cost ~$1100 USD versus ~$350 for a megasquirt with the same basic functionality. I can think of a LOT of things to do with the $750 savings (you could get a laptop and a WB02 and still have money to spare!). In addition - the megasquirt install on a 280zxT is VERY well documented here on hybridZ. I speak from experience when I say there is no problem that can't be solved by the hybridz memebers when it comes to the megasquirt install. There are MANY people that have megasquirt and only a handfull or two that have purchased the haltech for their Z for the exact reasons I'm stating.

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I speak from experience when I say there is no problem that can't be solved by the hybridz memebers when it comes to the megasquirt install.

 

Did you tell that to TonyD?...

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115390

 

It looks like you've had a serious change of heart in 4 weeks :D

 

Ok, before you pummel me... I'm just having a little fun. Please don't take me seriously. Really :D

 

I hear these MS stories ALL the time. They have some growing up to do. I do believe, in a few years, when they get past this teething period, MS will be very interesting indeed. Time will tell. But, for now, I would never recommend a system to someone with that kind of track record. And as for me, I'd rather spend $750 to avoid it. Not everyone would. Admittedly, virtually all the available systems have thier 'issues'. Some just more than others.

 

Again, please don't take offense to this. I'm rather impressed with your spirit. Anyone that has survived those kinds of issues deserves a 'tip of the hat'.

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Ron Beat Me to that same comment....

 

Good to be remembered here for something! :lol:

 

Going back and reading the new additions to that thread since my last post made me go "Magnecor Wires, eh?......"

Maybe the 4.5K ohm resistor isn't needed to tie the reset high (or low)...because I have this sinking feeling I have Taylor Wires (new set) in that thing....Dammit!

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Maybe the 4.5K ohm resistor isn't needed to tie the reset high (or low)...because I have this sinking feeling I have Taylor Wires (new set) in that thing....Dammit!

 

Paul and I were having our typical BS session... listening to the troubles, sounded to me like ignition interference (Jacobs wires are not impressive, from an EMI perspective). I had a set of Magnecore's handy and convinced him to give them a try (didn't take much :)). Even with non-resistor plugs, they resolved the reset issues.

 

In my opinion, if MS is that sensitive, I would use resistor plugs coupled with confirmed suppression wires.

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I have to agree with Ron. The MS is a great system if you have some electronics know how, and don't mind debugging some system problems.

 

Companies like RS Autosport build these without a lot of the production testing that is required if you were to bank your company on it (if you have ever had to bring a product to high volume production, you will understand what I am saying). There is a big difference between soldering boards in your basement, and high volume production manufacturing. The MS is more of a hobby project, if you can't get it to work, you are kind of on your own.

 

I will say that the level of support through the MS community is excellent. Between msefi.com and hybridz, the level of support is actually better than commercial companies. With that being said, a company will usually stand by their product because they have given it a sufficient level of testing. Companies like WolfEMS will stand by their hardware as long as you own it. You send it back, they will fix it or replace it (it may take month or so for them to do so though).

 

You do get what you pay for, and the money you save with MS will typiacally cost you in debug or repair time or expense.

 

I like MS mainly because I'm an electronics geek (professional), and I love to see these kind of things come to life.

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O.K. on this emf problem people have, distance from feild is very important. is it difficult to keep maxium distance from the feild and the low current for everything else? I mean plugs on one side of car, electonics on other side. unless running distrubuter. beiing a low volt guy i never run with power even though its leagal, cuse those that right the rules dont get it. since i have not done an inastall yet i have had a z for many years so familar with lay out.

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O.K. on this emf problem people have, distance from feild is very important. is it difficult to keep maxium distance from the feild and the low current for everything else?

 

Valid point. If you search and read the posts by Braap, TonyD, and others you'll find that they have installed their systems with that in mind.

 

Bottom line... MS is sensitive.

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what are the sites for these cus i cant seem to find much for EMS systems. ur help is very appreciated.

 

Turbo280Z.

 

Every post has been difficult to decipher. The easier it is to understand what you want, the easier it is for someone to help you.

 

If you're asking about the various brands of EMS's then Google some of the following...

 

Megasquirt

Wolf3D

Motec

Autronic

Haltech

SDS

Electromotive

VEMS

AEM

Pectel

 

There are more. These are the ones bouncing around in my head at the moment.

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