pparaska Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ: Not wanting to join the ranks of the long-term projects Oh yeah, the never-ending quest Hey, I resemble that remark, all too well! Glad to hear you're back on it. Can't wait to see the outcome. I know what you mean. After a few weeks away from REAL progress, I end up hitting the garage after the kids are put to bed and usually stay out there 'til 1AM or so. Playing with micrometers and the dial bore gage last few evenings getting the shortblock together... BTW, what size rubber is going to fit back there now that the struts are out of the picture? I'd imagine you could add some backspacing to fit a bit more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted October 19, 2001 Author Share Posted October 19, 2001 Not sure what I will finally do for wheels/tires until I upgrade the front brakes to match the rear (11.5") and get 5x4.75" bolt pattern. For starters I will go for an inexpensive pair of late Firebird or Camaro wheels (16x8) to mount up a pair of 255/50-16 DRs that I have. I am partial to these wheels. In the long run I see 16x7 or 8s in the front with 225/50-16s, 26x10.5-16 ET Streets for the track on the rear with 255 DRs for the street. For sure the car will have mismatched wheels initially and I dare anyone at the track to laugh at me Here are some pics of what I did recently on the IRS. This 1st pic shows the pass side link installed on the hub and the mod I had to make for the mount point. Also note the shiny, almost flat surface at 11:00 behind the rotor and the fact that it is directly under the shock tower. I decided to forego the leaf spring and mount a pair of 16.5" adjustable coilovers on top of the hub and bolt the top up to the original mount point in the tower. So now I will be able to adjust spring height, shock rebound/compression, camber and toe. This next pic shows the mod from the inside. I will build a rigid frame that the link will be bolted up to. Here I need some advice. Part of the mount frame, a 4"x6" piece of .25" flat will be welded to the front of the storage box next to the link. I expect it to get HOT in that box when welding but I do not feel like moving the stuff I have mounted in it. How can I protect it while welding? Just throw a damp towel over it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 Hey, at least you currently have a project!! I make progress by just sticking my head thru the garage doors... Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 Thats awesome Scotty. As far as the stuff in the box, I'd just unbolt it from the body so the heat doesn't transfer and put some aluminum foil over the stuff to protect it from the splatter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted October 19, 2001 Author Share Posted October 19, 2001 Went into the garage the other day and she looked at me with big, sad, lonely eyes and said "whatsamatta, you dont love me anymore? You have'nt touched me with the grinder or torch in weeks". Then it hit me, I have been so busy with work, houseguests and vacation, I have not done anything in about a month. Not wanting to join the ranks of the long-term projects, I got the grinder out and hacked, err, precisely "trimmed" away at the lower portion of the inner fenderwell to build the mount points for the suspension links. After I got done, I stood there staring at those 2 gaping, err, precisely cuts holes in the car and had to remind myself why I was doing this. After seeing what some of you guys have done to your floors, I realize I just "nicked" mine. I will snap some pics later today. cardboard mockups are at the machine shop and the toughest part of the project should be done this weekend. Oh yeah, the never-ending quest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aaron Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 At least you have a garage. I have to build that before I can start my conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 What is that in the box anyway Scottie? Looks like a brake bias adjuster or something? Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 Scottie, I know all to well how days if not weeks just whistle by and we don’t get to work on our “project” (as the significant other calls it). I also had to build a garage to work on the “project”. Anyway a quick question on your proportioning valve and it’s hookup. Did you remove the original one that’s in the engine compartment or are you using the new one in tandem with the original? What is recommended when upgrading to disks in the rear? Thank you, Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted October 20, 2001 Share Posted October 20, 2001 Scottie I like what you have done so far... Just thinking out loud.... Why not take a peice of 3x3 .090 wall square and cut one end out then place it where you need it and then make atachments. Have you thought of moving your main hoop to the shelf that way you could tie it all together... Just food for thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted October 20, 2001 Author Share Posted October 20, 2001 Yes, it is my brake proportioning valve and the relay for the fuel pump. I put the prop-valve there because I wanted to have easy access to adjust it, maybe even while driving. Remember I originally started out setting the car up for doing drivers schools. To ensure that the fuel pump has max voltage at high boost, I run a 10-gauge wire from the alt to the pump through the relay and a 10-guage ground wire from the pump to the battery. The blue wire you see is the OEM pump lead that now just triggers the relay. I recommend any turbo car running high boost to do the same. No fun finding out that at 23# boost you have less than 11 volts at the pump from the OEM 16-gauge wire that is so hot it is about to melt the insulation [ October 19, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted October 21, 2001 Author Share Posted October 21, 2001 Danno, the OEM prop valve on my 240Z was in the rear and it was removed. I would recommend anyone with a hybrid that has upgraded their brakes (everybody does, right? ) to replace the static OEM valve. Ray, I am sure what you are saying will work, I just took a different approach. Because of the tremendous force that link will put on the bracket (up and forward), I want to brace the entire area. You do not realize how how flimsy the metal is in this car until you start cutting into it. Then again, that is why they are so light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted October 21, 2001 Share Posted October 21, 2001 Scottie - just an FYI, that valve in the back isn't a prop valve. It's a residual valve. I tkeeps some slight pressure on the rear drums after you've let off the brakes. I pulled mine apart to gut it and that's what I believe I was seeing. Anything over a certain pressure unseats a spring loaded valve... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted October 22, 2001 Author Share Posted October 22, 2001 You mean the Haynes manual is incorrect? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted October 23, 2001 Share Posted October 23, 2001 Dunno, open it up. It's a one way valve near as I can tell - spring loaded plunger. Fairly stiff spring too. As pressure in the line drops the plunger looked like it would seal up the line running to the back. How's a prop valve differ? This one looked like it would retain some pressure to the rear upon loss of pressure lifting the spring.... (shrug) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted October 23, 2001 Author Share Posted October 23, 2001 The Haynes has a diagram showing the prop valve in the rear (all other diagrams I have seen are the same). I removed it and pitched it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted October 23, 2001 Share Posted October 23, 2001 BLKMGK,Scottie I emailed you both a couple of JPG's of the brake layout of the 74-260Z. It shows where the NP valve is located and other components of the brake system. These come from the Factory Manual for my car. I don’t know if they are representational for the 240Z or the 280Z. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted October 24, 2001 Author Share Posted October 24, 2001 Danno, thanks for the pics from your manual. It appears the location differs with the model. My 70-78 Clymer (not Haynes) shows a diagram of the Brake System with the prop valve in the rear like my car. Hopefully someone can clear this up for all. maybe we can start a new thread for the prop valve topic so it does not get buried here. OK, more pictures of my progress and I will eventually get around to updating the How-To doc. Here is the mount I built for the links. I still want to do some more bracing. I plan to race the car and check for signs of stress before I cover everything up. Here is the diff mount using the original crossmember. I will probably rip off the frame rail before that puppy breaks And...TA-DA, a pic that shows I am close. The black rods at the bottom are the special shortened, camber arm. [ October 23, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 god damn thats beautiful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 Scottie, you make this stuff look factory easy! SWEET! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.