MusPuppis Posted November 24, 2006 Share Posted November 24, 2006 A little trick I was shown and have been meaning to post about, wanted to see what the veteran paint and body guys have to say about it. A bud of mine works for the bodyshop at a Nissan dealership and says a guy out there showed him a little trick, which he then passed on to me. Initially Ive been quite impressed. Whenever I do my filler work I like to skim coat wth polyester filler to even it all out and final blend with the sbstrate (well final filler blend anyway, I finish with primer always). Polyester has a tendency to shrink though and can be annoying to work with sometimes. Well, Jordan took some filler, put the hardener in then added about 40% fiberglass resin to the filler (Rage Gold). I took it and skim coated the door on the SHO I punched (dont ask.. lol, it warped it all to hell =/ ) and was very very impressed. Even, super smooth, quick, still sanded well. Acted like polyester filler but better. Heres the kicker though, and what I'd really like to know, according to the guy that showed Jordan this little trick it causes the filler to adhere over paint and primer, which its not normally meant to do.. Any vets out there heard of this? Just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aguyandaredhead Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 That is a little secret that the guys in High end Car Audio have been using for years. Just make sure that you are using poly resin with poly filler.. The reason is good adhesion and not much shrinkage. Just thought I would share that. Hope it was not too off topic. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 So no extra catalyst (hardener) is needed when doing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 This is exactly what I thought. I've done this, but always added a little resin catalyst when I did it. Now I know that this resin catalyst is unecessary, and that the filler catalyst will suffice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MusPuppis Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 Very informative! Glad to add another trick to my arsenal. I was really impressed with how the filler spread and worked after. Still sanded well.. Was nice. The low shrinkage is a damn plus as well. This is slightly off-topic, but I dont really think it warrants its own thread really.. What high-build do you guys favor? In school we use MarHyde which is the goofy yellow you see in everything I post, lol. Its a cheap-side primer but honestly, its sharp. Sprays well, sands decent, but I'm always open to new info. I tried an Omni high-build whos name scapes me but I was less than impressed honestly. It sprayed better than the marhyde but I felt the Marhyde built better and sanded better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 This is funny! When I did the first round of bodywork on my Z, it was in Japan, and there was a polyseter filler called "Rock"---they sold paint as well, and it was said to be an "Imron Equivalent" 10:1 Polyurethane... Anyway, Rock Brand Filler came in MANY consistencies. From thick like our regular bondo, in several stages all the way to a runny stuff for body glazing that was slightly less solid than the lacquer based red spot putty I was using. When I got back to the USA, and had a shunt, working with US products was very frustrating given how well the Rock Stuff worked. One thing I did notice was that the Rock Putties seemed to shrink FAR less than the US Products. Despite being parked in the SoCal sun in an uncovered black car, the Rock products didn't shrink and lift like the Evercoat, Bondo, et al that was used on the other side for a repair. This trick of adding resin was on my mind to try and "Make" some "Rock" here in the USA. Now after reading all this, it seems like this will be the way I go next time I have the oportunity. I hate mixing epoxy and microballoons (Aircraft Spruce is up the street, Baby!) for "flexible filler", as that is the only stuff I have found to be equivalent in durability to the "Blue Rock" and "Tan Rock" Body Fillers sold in Japan in the late 80's. BTW, in Japan, many shops used MEK-P (Methy-Ethyl-Ketone-Peroxide) straight from a tube for either their bondo hardener, or polyester FRP resin hardener. From what I understand, MEK-P is a "Universal Catalyst" for Polyester Resins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 Methy-Ethyl-Ketone-Peroxide That's just got to be some nasty s*&^! MEK scares me enough as it is, add some Peroxide and you can use to to go to the moon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 They have a small storefront, but just about everything in their catalog is in the warehouse directly behind the counter. I usually order ahead, and just will call my stuff at the counter. it's not perusing the store that gets me in trouble....it's opening that damnable catalog... "Oh, I could use one of those... That would be nice... While I'm ordering I should get some of this..." Rock may still be available in Japan. Don't live there anymore! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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