Emmisions removal as it relates to poor peromance?

[Old Z Guy]

I am new to this forum and I did search first but could'nt find what I was looking for. I am sorry if this has been asked before.

 

Background

I am in Michigan with no emmisions testing. I am rebuilding and customizing the body of a 1982 ZXT. The body is stripped to a shell. I am not rebuilding the engine. This will be a fair weather car only and driven from late April through late September. I have asked the following question on another board but I have not received a clear answer. I am hoping to get one here.

 

The question is;

Can I use the intake manifold from a 1980 N/A eliminating all the emmision componants on the 82 turbo motor without causing perfomance issues.

I would like to leave the Air Regulator for Spring and Fall starts.

I would like to remove the;

EGR

AAC

VCM

Emergency Relief Valve

I will relocate the PCV

 

Again, this car will be a weekend driver and driven to Zclub functions.

 

Thank you

[myplasticegg]

grab yourself an early 280Z intake manifold. I believe they are the N42, they have none of the emissions tripe to worry about.

[Old Z Guy]

I have a manifold. My question is, will I have drivabilty problems if I remove these components by using the earlier manifold.

 

I don't want to have starting problems or cause a perfomance problem by doing this. I am using the stock ECU.

[COZY Z COLE]

Don't know if you read this thread by bumble zee, he's from Grand Rapids Mi., but in his write up in post #17 that person had also not used the emmision sensors. Why don't you pm/e-mail bumble zee and ask him your question seeing that he has done a few turbo swaps and could help you on your question?

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99620

 

 

LARRY

[eec564]

The absolute best way to find out if you're going to have any problems with anything you remove is to read, read, read, read. Learn why those parts are there in the first place, learn how they work, learn what will or may happen when you remove them. That way, if anything ever does go wrong, or weird, or otherwise, you'll be far more likely to know what it is immediately and if it's caused by the removal of one of those parts or if it's something else all together.

[Guest Mike]

Young Skywalker... Follow advice of the Great LARRY, you should. PM bumble zee, you should. There is no try. Either do... or do not.

[Tony D]

Absolutely, relocate the PCV valve under the manifold slightly forward. The N/A manifolds PCV's hit the turbo when installed, so you gotta move it. I used an 79 or 80 Non-EGR P82 (I think) manifold on my turbo. The Euro Turbos have NONE of the stuff we ECCS guys have. Just make a 1/4" or 3/8" barb on your J-Pipe, and connect it to the N/A idle speed control screw housing, and plumb it up to the Cold-Start Air Regulator like on an N/A and it will run just fine. No need for the Magnet Valve controlled AAR valve to control idle speed. Jsut set it like an N/A and it runs just fine. The Euro Turbos had this EXACT setup, only using a Turbo manifold with stock Nissan Blockoff Plates for the AAR, and the EGR as well. All those acronyms can be tossed...

[Old Z Guy]

If I am understaning you right, you are saying that I will use the TB from the N/A using an idle adjustment screw. By doing this I am replacing the idle adjustment that the AAC provides on the 82. Is this correct? If so does this affect anything with signals from the ECU?

 

I am a little confused on the additional hose barb you are referring to. I have two hose fittings on my N/A TB. One runs to the valve cover and the other one runs to the AR. My 82ZXT has one hose fitting on the TB that runs to the AR. The valve cover tube runs down to the AFM boot. There is a hose fitting on my J-tube next to the FI harness. It connect to the mess by the AAC that is tied into the AR. I also see that the coolant line on the N/A run to the TB. On the 82 it runs through the AR then to the to the TB. Which AR do I end up using?

 

If you don't mind can you explain a bit more and I am sure I will finnaly get it. Do you have any pictures of your set up?

[Tony D]

Nope, you use the later model style T/B WITHOUT an idle screw (at least I did on mine, I guess you COULD use one...) The Euro Cars have the external idle bypass screw, and their T/B's don't have that BCDD on the bottom of them. For the record, I am using the T/B from a 91 SR20DE.... It's 60mm. But yeah, by using the separate idle bypass screw, you are performing the same function as the AAC and the resultant mass of Magnet Valves, Vacuum hoses, etc.... It works just fine, you get about a 100rpm drop below idle speed on snap drop-throttle, but it raises right back up to idle speed immediately, just like the N/A does.

 

The hose barb is used when you use the EXTERNAL bypass screw. What I did on mine was put a 1/4" barb on the J-Pipe, then it was run to the idle bypass valve from an 83 N/A car that was bolted to the side of the manifold (not integral in the T/B like on some earlier N/A's). I had taken the Idle Bypass Screw fittings out of it by heating it with a propane torch (the OEM hoses are something like 10mm I.D., which is far larger than you need) and then tapped the housing for 1/4" NPT and screwed in barbed fittings into it from the old OEM 50mm T/B (the water fittings). I ran the line from the Bypass Screw Housing to the former Cold Start Valve location where I had tapped and installed another 1/4" barb---but you could put that fitting anywhere in the plenum.

 

So if you use a T/B with an integral Idle Bypass Screw, you don't need the J-Pipe Barb, External Bypass Screw, and hose routing.

 

I actually do have photos at my Cardomain Page...at least I did. I will have to go look and report back...

[Old Z Guy]

Just so everyone knows I have been doing my homework between replies. I have taken the advice of the above posts. I have contacted Bumble Zee and Read, Read, and Read until my eyes hurt and my wife is pissed at me for going into seclusion.(I have studied my FSM and about 50 pages of threads on this forum). I don't want anyone to think I am looking for a short cut.

 

Bumble Zee's information has been helpful and the information coming from Tony is taking me to a new level of understanding the Z engines and this info is appreciated. I have to admit that even sitting here with my list of acronym definitions and my Z dictionary I sometimes struggle a bit with the advanced Z language so please be patient with me. I am a quick learner.

 

Having said this I am going to post pictures of my two TBs on the engines I have out of the cars. Tony if you cant find the your pictures would you mind coping mine and add arrows to the parts you are referring to.

 

82ZXT donor engine

 

Top view

 

80N/A TB. By the way what is the big thing hanging from under this TB. I studied my manuals and see no reference to it.

 

Thanks again for helping me. I am getting close to needing to make these decisions at the point I am at with my project.

 

Here is my Photobucket if anyone is interested. I have arrange the pictures to match my progress.

http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a36/asteiger/

[Old Z Guy]

I can answer my own questions now. I have been searching and reading since my last post.

I now understand Tony's last post.

 

I am clear on the difference between a BCDD and a BOV/VCV. I also understand ported and non-ported vacuum and how it relates to idle control. With this information I can now put together the TB and manifold system that will work for me.

 

Thanks to everyone,

[eec564]

Well I'm glad everything is working. Stick around here, it's a great place.