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Coilover Kits


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I have checked out a lot of the threads here, but everything I have run across for coilover kits seem to require mods & welding.

 

Is there anyone that offers a true bolt in kit, with struts included? I will be drag racing more than turning curves, but still want a package that can offer both.

 

Was planning on starting the 240z project next spring, but the bug is bitin' hard. Started last weekend.

 

All help is appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Charlie

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There isn't really all that much welding involved in the coilover conversion. You could just carry your strut tubes to a local welder and have him do it. It'd be about 15 minutes of work - most guys I know probably wouldn't even bother charging you anything. That's assuming that you take care of cutting off the perch yourself which isn't too hard. You could have the welder do that too though. Actually, I think the collars that MikeSCCA sells are meant to rest on the bead from the old perch? That would mean no welding required.

 

I have seen pictures of a car (John Coffey's?) with extra long collars. These rest on the cast part at the bottom and not require welding a stop to the tube. You might call Ground Control or Ross C or somebody and see if they can get you the super long collars. It'd obviously be much more expensive. Looks kinda cool though.

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collars come in lengths from 4" to 8" , ONLY for a 240. the larger OD 280 tubes only in 4".

 

but if you have 4" sleeves and the cars desired ride height is at the middle then the 4" is plenty.

2" either way is far more adjustment than needed to go to any track day .

 

any muffler shop can cut the perches off and the sleeves slide over. if you need the weld bead removed you just grind it off and you can lower the sleeve then.

 

check out www.blkmgk.com he has lots of detailed pics for all sorts of stuff..

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On the rears, you can simply space a shorter collar up from the cast base by using a section exhaust pipe (2 1/2 i think). I did that with my set-up and was glad I did since I wound up a little long and needed to cut off another 1.5 inch off the spacer... much harder to do once its welded up. The front tubes have a bracket for the brake line welded to it, which makes using a "spacer" unlikely.

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SCCA,

 

Are the threaded sleeves on your page slip on or do they require shaving of the housing to slip on... i have the AZC setup and had to shave alot off to get them to fit. if they are slip on i may try to get another set of front tubes and do it over. thanks

 

stony

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I've got Mike's coil overs on my car too. Install wasn't too bad. Cut off and grind down the stock perches, measure the distance for the new perch, weld a thick piece of metal to support the threaded tube (scrap), then slip threaded tube overonto the new perchch, slip spring over tube, bolt on upper spring mount. A urethane bumper in there isn't a bad idea. While I was at it I stripped the strut, primed it, and painted it.

 

Wasn't too bad but weld under the strap not above it else you might create a wedge that would split the threaded tube. Hardest part was the welding which I had someone else do (thanks Mike!). Might be some pics up on my site if you look, I don't recall. No shaving of the tube required. 280 and 240 strut tubes are different sizes I believe so perhaps you were given the wrong set? malebitchslap.gif (heh, dying to use that!)

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yea thats what i was thinking too. mine were a late model 260 with the bigger struts i think he gave me 240 sleeves oh well they are installed now. i wanted to make them look better but it was such a paint to get teh sleeves on the fist time i got them on i left it and just installed in teh car ;< anyone have a spare set of the larger 260 or 280 strut housings they want to get rid of. ???

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"Those long collars must be available from someplace" Sure, my garage. Just got some going out for a Z. Available for early or late model struts. Can be done with no welding at all. Can even leave the spring perch in place if desired. Simplest is grind off the perch and just leave the bead weld as your lower support for threaded tube. Or grind it off altogether and use long tubes and/or simple muffler pipe spacers as others have described. Can be as simple or difficult as you like. And the longer tubes aren't a lot more money. WOW factor is slick icon_cool.gif .

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long sleeves have been around forever for the small tubes, for the larger OD tubes thats new.

 

i have 4" sleeves on my car and i cant go all the way to the top of the sleeve as with the short inserts it runs out of travel UP. then you are compresssing the spring and you cant wind it up very far with a hand tool. i can go to the bottom of the sleeve and then the car is on the ground so i cant really see what benefit the longer sleeve has. the inserts dont have 8" of travel so you cant adjust it that far. on the rear they are only like 4-5" travel and after the car rests closer to 3" .

 

the only benefit i can see with the longer sleeve is not having to be as accurate with the install position. bonk.gif

and i had to use this gremlin icon_biggrin.gif

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Not to mention the functionality factor too, Ross!! icon_smile.gif

 

After I am finished designing my front spoiler, I'll be using your coil-overs. That way, I can get the proper riding height without scraping the front and get the handling I require. They are a good idea, even for a street car!! (Plus, if the police ever get snippy about the ride height, in just 5 minutes you have changed it to their liking, and then back again when they are gone!)

 

Davy

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