Need help choosing 5.0 swap parts

[JMortensen]

It is a rebadged Nissan LSD sold by another company. Good LSD and cheap.

[Guest Gr8White]

the car will be a street/strip car.... if you have any comments or advices, dont hesitate...

 

thanks

 

Ali

 

 

 

 

 

The intake and injectors are way too big currently, the Edelbrock Performer and 24 lb injectors would work much better given the current combo (assuming you have stock E7TE heads and cam). If you are upgrading to the AFR' 185's and camming the car, the injectors will be perfect.

 

Try the Lunati 51012 cam for your combo and you will love it. It is similar to the Motorsport X303 cam, but I picked up some power switching to the 51012 from the X303. Street manners are good, idle aside (fairly rough- I believe the duration at .050 was in the 242-252 degree range) and the cam loves nitrous, I was running a dry 175 shot and 30# squirters. Still perfectly streetable and the sound was sweet and intimidating.

 

I would think twice about revving the stock block at those power levels to 7000 rpm. The stock blocks can take 500-600 horsepower (without detonation of course) but the margin for error at this power level and 7000 rpm is nil. One mistake, some bad gas or bad air is all it will need to spit chicken bones all over the track, and with little or no warning. By the time you recognize the detonation, it's too late.

 

The lunati cam will still make power to 7000, but I was shifting at 6100 and found no appreciable gains by revving past this point. The stock blocks simply cannot take high revs and high power. Your tune must be dead on. My tune was good on my first stock block, but still cracked the mains at roughly 500 rwhp (3100 Pound Mustang and 130 mph trap speed in the 1/4) with a good A/F ratio (tuning with a Uego Wide Band) and finally went to a siamese R block. Keep the revs down and it might live, at least for a while! If you want to rev it, get a good block....

 

Good luck!

[MY77Z]

Gr8White thanks alot for your advices, well im a bit confused here, thinkin about the AFR/crower combo and the Edelbrock performer RPM power package....not sure what to do......now on stock heads, i shift at 5300 not more, with a rev limiter set at 6000 so even if i miss a shift, i wont blow my block and im gonna do the same thing on the Z...but after the head and cam are installed, will set the rev limiter 6500 and shift at 6000, what do you think ???

[MY77Z]

http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?ppuser=19452&cat=500

 

PHOTOS PHOTOS PHOTOS PHOTOS PHOTOS PHOTOS PHOTOS

[Guest Gr8White]

Gr8White thanks alot for your advices, well im a bit confused here, thinkin about the AFR/crower combo and the Edelbrock performer RPM power package....not sure what to do......now on stock heads, i shift at 5300 not more, with a rev limiter set at 6000 so even if i miss a shift, i wont blow my block and im gonna do the same thing on the Z...but after the head and cam are installed, will set the rev limiter 6500 and shift at 6000, what do you think ???

 

What are the spec's on the Crower cam?

[MY77Z]

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:234Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:240Duration at 050 inch Lift:234 int./240 exh.Advertised Intake Duration:298Advertised Exhaust Duration:304Advertised Duration:298 int./304 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.535 in.Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.545 in.Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.535 int./0.545 exh. liftLobe Separation (degrees):110

 

WHAT DO YOU THINK ???

[Sven]

Try the Lunati 51012 cam for your combo and you will love it. It is similar to the Motorsport X303 cam, but I picked up some power switching to the 51012 from the X303. Street manners are good, idle aside (fairly rough- I believe the duration at .050 was in the 242-252 degree range) and the cam loves nitrous, I was running a dry 175 shot and 30# squirters. Still perfectly streetable and the sound was sweet and intimidating.

 

Here's another thumbs up for the 51012. I put one in my buddy's car, along with Edelbrock heads and a ported GT40. It is a deceptive cam. It idles a little choppy, but sounds great. Initially I was disappointed test driving it. The cam pulls about the same as factory, no more power - no less. Cross that magical 4000 rpm line and it's like the gates of hell just opened up. The motor gets this roar, and screams to redline like a freight train. It's an excellent hot street cam, and actually drives nice considering it's specs. Personally, I have a custom ground FTI cam waiting to go in my motor.

[MY77Z]

what edelbrock heads your buddy was running?? and can use this cam on stock heads???

[Sven]

Just Edelbrock Performers with the 1.90 valves. Yes, his short block was all factory. We checked the clearance with clay and it wasn't even close. There are other heads out there now that flow even better than the old Performers, and still give plenty of clearance with factory pistons. We built that motor almost ten years ago. If you plan on getting much more serious with your engine, it would be worth it to just build it to handle larger valves and higher lift cams. Maybe even build a stroker motor...

[Guest Gr8White]

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:234Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:240Duration at 050 inch Lift:234 int./240 exh.Advertised Intake Duration:298Advertised Exhaust Duration:304Advertised Duration:298 int./304 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.535 in.Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.545 in.Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.535 int./0.545 exh. liftLobe Separation (degrees):110

 

WHAT DO YOU THINK ???

 

The cam will work, but I still think it's a bit small in terms of maximum potential for your combo. The 51012 will rape the Crower cam from 5000-6000 rpm, probably to the tune of 30 hp or better.

 

Spend your money on the exhaust side of your heads with a good port job. The Ford exhaust port is the weak link in these motors. Get the exhaust side to around 230-240 cfm @ .600 and it will fly. My old combo (I have since switched to a YS Vortech for my power adder) was a very simple combo but made gobs of power. 10:1 337 CID (destroked 351 cleveland crank), Ported Canfield heads (310/240 cfm @ .600) Ported GT-40 intake (lower ported and port matched), Lunati 51012, full length headers and 175 hp dry NOS system (Free flowing the solenoid with a 73/45 jetting) and bone stock computer (tuning with a wide band however) and a 5 speed Tremec, pump gas 93 octane. The car would consistently run 6.70 @ 101 in the 1/8th and 10.50's @ 131 through the 1/4. I would drive the car 100 miles (1) way to the track and back home and it never stranded me. Put this type combo in your 2800 pound Datsun and look out! probably easy 6.40/ 10.00's...Keep the long runner intake style too, the short runner gains up top are not worth the sacrifice of low rpm torque IMHO, especially in a street car....

[MY77Z]

thanks alot Gr8White,, im learnin alot of things thanks to you, well im sendin my car to the paint shop tomorow, maybe next thersday ill take the 5.0 out of the mustang, ill keep you updated with what im gonna do, i think that the lunati is a good choise, is it possible to use this cam with stock ported and polished heads? if not, what about the edelbrock performer rpm?? and what lifters to use?? i dont wanna spend 1200 bucks on heads now, maybe in a month or two but not now because i have the paint job, the engine swap, engine tune up, interior to be redone and the suspension.....if its possible to use it with stock heads, ill get the cam now and the heads later ......

 

and didnt really understand the thing about the long runner intake??? would you explain please....and im lovin the idea of runnin 10.00's

[Sven]

I forgot to mention my friend's 91 coupe ran a 12.1, N/A with 3.08 gears and that Lunati cam combo. That was without any tuning at all.

 

Unless your heads are already ported, I wouldn't even waste the time porting E7's. You can reuse the roller lifters if they are in good condition.

The factory intake, GT40, Edelbrock, etc are all long runner intakes. The box style intakes that bolt onto the lower intakes are short runner intakes

 

Long runner

Short runner

 

 

GR8White, out of curiousity, what are you running now with the YS?

[Guest Gr8White]

GR8White, out of curiousity, what are you running now with the YS?

 

My car currently runs 5.90's in the 1/8th at around 119 and runs 9.0's in the 1/4 at around 150. Still a street car, and can idle in traffic for an hour. Went to a C4, The 5 speed was just too crazy and was trying to kill me at the 3-4 shift, breaking loose and setting the car sideways. I believe my car is the fastest bone stock EEC IV processor Mustang (88 GT) in the nation currently. It's really gotten too fast to be any use on the street though, it will incinerate any ET street (28 x 12.50) instantly at any speed up to 90 mph, very dangerous. RWHP is 775, torque 650, flat line and consistent from 4500 to 6200. I am currently running a 331 w/ ported Victor Jr. EFI and ported Victor Jr. heads (2.08/ 1.62), Comp Cams custom grind cam- and am severely underinjected at 50# high impededence injectors (Due to the stock EFI). This is still an 8 rib belt that slips terribly and maxes out around 17 psi. I run a wet 60 shot of Nitrous to introduce extra fuel and cool the intake charge. I have a cog for this and tried it on the dyno, but the car was leaning out at around 4500, but was making 100 hp more power with the cog at 4500 then it was making at 5500 with the 8 rib!...I'm maxed out until I can get more injector and a stand alone EFI setup (short of more nitrous). 3200 lb with me in it, not gutted out, full interior.

 

I want a less crazy street ride, thus my 280Z! Looking for a LS-2 and T-56 for this oddly enough!!!

[Guest Gr8White]

thanks alot Gr8White,, im learnin alot of things thanks to you, well im sendin my car to the paint shop tomorow, maybe next thersday ill take the 5.0 out of the mustang, ill keep you updated with what im gonna do, i think that the lunati is a good choise, is it possible to use this cam with stock ported and polished heads? if not, what about the edelbrock performer rpm?? and what lifters to use?? i dont wanna spend 1200 bucks on heads now, maybe in a month or two but not now because i have the paint job, the engine swap, engine tune up, interior to be redone and the suspension.....if its possible to use it with stock heads, ill get the cam now and the heads later ......

 

and didnt really understand the thing about the long runner intake??? would you explain please....and im lovin the idea of runnin 10.00's

 

 

The long runner intake maximizes low and midrange power while the short runner sacrifices low end torque for the sake of high end horsepower. Short runner intakes thrive in either forced induction or high rpm (racing) applications. The Edelbrock RPM intake (ported and port matched to the heads) is a mix of both and is a good intake that can make a bunch of power when matched with the correct components. It doesn't sacrifice too much torque for the upper end power gains it produces. For your application I would definitely stick with the long runner style such as the Edelbrock, GT-40, Trick Flow, etc. The GT-40 is old school, but it works. The cobra intake is a cast version of the tubular GT-40 and the upper can also be ported, unlike the GT-40. It's also cheaper. Get the cast Cobra, port the lower and extrude hone the upper. Yummy.

 

You have to think of your combination in terms of a total package. Each component is only as good as an individual component. E7 heads are a poor choice for this cam, ported or not. TEA (Total Engine Airflow) does a good job with stock E7 heads and uses 1.84/1.54 valves, but for several hundred dollars more you can get a box stock aluminum head that is still superior in every aspect out of the box. The E7 exhaust port is simply horrid. Think of this like trying to blow up a balloon through a straw. You may have all of the "lung" (intake/cam) you need to do the job quickly (make power), but restricting it through the straw means little air gets through, regardless of the amount of available air getting to the straw. This analogy works for both intake and exhaust ports, try breathing in through a straw! A good cam and intake means the available air is there, but without good heads, your power will be severely limited. Nitrous applications also favor a good exhaust port along with high duration- The bottle neck through the heads, particularly at the exhaust side will kill the output. If you are looking for a cam to get you by until later, get the Motorsport F303 cam. It will work with E7 heads but will still be limited as well but will work much better. Save your money and do it right. You won't be going 10.00's on ported E7's, unless you put it in a 200 lb. go-cart!

 

I don't have much experience with re-using the stock roller lifters but I have heard that these will also develop wear patterns (to a much lesser degree than a flat cam) and are a bad idea with a new roller combo, but Sven may have more information than I have on this and might be right on reusing these, since I don't have any practical experience here. I always change out the entire valvetrain (particularly valvesprings) when changing cams, but I am probably going overboard here....

 

The rest of your parts and combo will support gobs of power, don't cripple it with crappy heads!

[Sven]

Hmmm, couple of things, I agree completely with everything GR8White had to say about your engine combination.

 

*GR8White, don't feel like I'm stepping on toes here, you obviously know your stuff. You have a far more extreme car than I've ever built. 9.0's with a slipping belt... jeez! *

 

On the subject of the hydraulic roller lifters: like any mechanical part exposed to friction, they do develop wear patterns. The wear patterns typically experienced with the 302HO lifters are almost always minimal. It is standard practice in the Mustang world to reuse them when swapping out cams. The only people I know that changed them out, did it because they wanted all new parts, not because they had to. I've reused the lifters on a 140,000 mile motor putting in .550" lift camm, with no issues after 10,000 miles driving it. I planned on replacing those, but had no problems and kept them. Obviously, trash them if they look damaged or they collapse, or if you're building a .600" lift monster. I've only seen one seized roller on a friends car. He didn't like to change his oil.

[Guest Gr8White]

*GR8White, don't feel like I'm stepping on toes here

 

LOL, you certainly aren't stepping on my toes. What you say makes perfect sense. I figured I might be going overboard on replacing roller lifters with a cam change...Thanks for the info, Sven!

[MY77Z]

guys i have a new question,

 

what to use for exhaust system??? was thinkin about two 2.5'' pipes from the headers then collected into one 2.5'' pipe to a megan N1 muffler??? what do you think ??? i already have the megan muffler, its a 2.5'' inlet and 4'' outlet, i got it for the L28 engine, would it work for a V8?? keep in mind that I DONT WANT TO HAVE TWO MUFFLERS.

 

thanks

[MY77Z]

hi guys,

got my photobucket account

 

PHOTOS TIME

 

first day i got the car and the rims looked like hell

 

first thing was paintin and polishin the rims

 

the L28 engine that i dont really like

 

new set of tires

 

day light photo

 

3 days ago with no engine

 

engine bay, took almost everything out of the bay

 

 

 

AND NOOOOOOOOW, THE STICKER

500Z /powered by ford sticker

well i had it made today by a local shop, i love this sticker, it's too good to be true, can't wait until i paint my car and stick those on it....

 

my thread is not worthless now tell me what you think of my ride and MY STICKER

[Guest QuantumDragon]

Looks great. You made a huge improvement on everything, especially the rims; they look spotless.

On the sticker; I'd probably go a tad more old school on the styling or font or whatever.

 

On the parts side, be sure to leave some money for reinforcing the chassis and upgrading at least the bushings, if not new suspension and brakes for that beast.

I have RPMII intake, with AFR185's, X303, rebuilt 302, etc. etc. It fairly roars; it's a blast.

I'd ditch the MAF and the factory engine harness and go megasquirt with a fresh, custom engine harness for a pristine look. Old school cars are cool, but old school wiring is not.

 

 

BTW, if you would be so kind, PM me around what range you were able to acquire that clean Z for? I have a 5.0 right now and seriously considering a hybrid.

 

Thanks,

Mark

[MY77Z]

thanks mark for the complements,

 

do you think its really worth it to spend 500 bucks on a new harness for the look?? with my current set-up, the stock ecu is good enough, ill just get a flip-top chip from superchip.