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15x8's with 4.5" BS fit with stock struts and 235-60's


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That is EXACTLY the style and profile I'm looking for from my car. I had even considered a similar paint scheme ( I'll change that now..LOL) I've already tossed the front and rear bumpers but I filled the indentions in the 1/4s. I'm looking for a steal on a frt airdam.

 

*nice job!!!

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Just got back from driving the hell out of the car for 30 minutes (45-50 mph freeway exit turns, speed bumps, dips, 2 shallow pot holes and what not. Not one rub either side. These rims and tires are not for road racing and they wont be used for that. Its for straight line accelerating stop light to stop light and 1/4 mile drag racing. Around town hard driving this morning they have proven to do just fine though. I will however be doing some close up launching video of the rear tires to see if they hit at full launch rpm and suspension loading. I will be inspecting them after every drive for safety reasons though as we dont want a shredded tire at any speed.

If we want to road race at a track we sure wouldnt use this setup, we put the other rims/tires on.

 

Im actually gonna get rid of the standard rear Tokico's and put Tokico Illuminas on the rear to stiffen it up more just in case of hard compression ouch to the tire sides. I have a set of 280z rear isolators to put on to raise the rear 3/4", but wont do it unless we see evidence of tire rubbing.

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Well the tires didnt rub on a hard launch...BUT

 

This is why CV conversions are done on higher HP cars. We did a CV conversion and had to go back to halfshafts until a different CV conversion is done as the first one wouldnt work right. Luckily it was only 2 blocks from home for the quick tow rope scenerio.

 

This was a street launch rolling in 1st about 10 mph and full throttle.

 

Anyone have a spare halfshaft laying around?

 

Turns out that 3 of the 4 ujoints that were used were beefy non greable ones. The 4th one that broke has a greasable fitting andwhat looks like an inferior casting and not near as beefy as the others. I remember questioning the shop that did them about the one being different and they said it was a different brand but fine to use (obviously not)

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Very nice man like the ride . Who did ya purchase the rims from . I have some everyday rims 15x9 with 225 -50 -15 on them and just clear the strut where the spring sits barley .

 

Ive been looking for wider rims that i can use at the drag and the ones you have would be great .

 

Oh also what did ya make the front grille out of very nice also .

 

Jason 78 280z with 240 front end

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Good looking car. Hurry up and swap to the CV's or else you will be busting that stuff up regularly. I got to busting the U-joints regularly and did the Modern Motorsport swap and have not broken since!

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Already tried a cv swap and it wouldnt work due unforseen problems with running 4.38 gears and the conversion not working properly (see my previous thread on this nightmare swap in this same section a month or so ago). When this is fixed if another ujoint breaks then we will try a difference cv swap with the later cv instead of the zxt shafts.

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After going back to scene of carnage and finding the halfshaft outer end cap (it obviously bottomed out and popped the cap off) it looks like the drivers side shaft possibly bottomed out on launch and popped the end cap off as shown is first picture and then jamming against ujoint side and grease fitting into cap and causing the lockup and breakage. There was some play in shaft at full suspension compression when checked on install but since we are using 4.38 gears the carriers fat spacer is on opposite side making the drivers side shaft even tighter. Thats what it looks like happenned by the marks on the inside and outside of the end cap to me and maybe not a ujoint itself failure.

 

Anyone run into drivers halfshaft length problem with using 4.38 gears also?

Looking back we should have stuck with the 3.90 gears and avoided all this BS with left side being an additional 1/2" shorter on its already shorter difference vs right side.

 

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Ummm yea... I would have made sure the output stubs fit ALL THE WAY IN... grinder works... bandsaw works... A lathe will cut a new ring groove... even removing the insertion spacer in an open carrier will get you some more room to play...

 

Ummm that there is a failure to check for binding on a modified suspension and driveline. Always cycle everything through it's entire range of motion without the springs installed...

 

Of course... then the tires will rub next... If I only had a dollar for every set of brand new tires I have seen cut to ribbons because the owner didn't bother to check clearances...

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