s14280zx Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 About a year ago I had a local tranny shop install a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, ACT extreme pres. plate, perf. street disc,bearing and bushing. It worked great until recently, but now when I drive to work(30miles) it's fine, but if it sits in the sun, or when I leave work, if I leave it run for 10 min. The pedal gets real stiff, doesn't grab till pedal is out, and when I drive it for 30 min. or more, it starts slipping. I figured out that when it starts slipping, if I adjust the pedal in toward mast. cyl. about 1/2" it works fine. But the next morning it has about 1 and3/4" play in the pedal. I just put the following parts on, but I still have same trouble: Nissan master cyl., Nissan slave cylinder, SPL stainless line, speedbleeders (2). I still have the dampener on. Should I bleed the slave 1st, or the dampener? What else would cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. THANK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 Did you bench bled your master before installing it??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 I was never able to adequately bleed my clutch hydraulics until I completely bypassed the damper (or what ever it's called or supposed to do) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 So, that thing is not necessary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s14280zx Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 No I didn't bench bleed it. how do you do this? I also had a similar problem with my 79 280zx after changing master,and slave,(it doesn't have a dampener), so you may be right. Which bleeder should I bleed first, the slave, or the dampener? Thanks for everyones' help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s14280zx Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 I was never able to adequately bleed my clutch hydraulics until I completely bypassed the damper (or what ever it's called or supposed to do) Can you buy a kit to do this, or do you have to fabricate a hardline to do so? I read a thread on NICO and they said that SPL made a kit to eliminate this, but I called them and they said they didn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 I bought the steel brake line, some adapters and fabricated the bypass myself. Bleeding went fine after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s14280zx Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 UPDATE: It was a little warmer today (15 deg.), so I decided to try adjusting my clutch pedal to the specs in my chilton. I had to back the cruise switch all the way out, and still couldn't get the pedal to 202mm. I then bled the slave cyl. using a craftsman vacuum bleeder from underneath, with the pedal pushed in. I took it for a long ride, and sat with it running for 30 min. Now it works fine. Not sure if the mas. cy.push rod is longer than old one, ore what the deal was. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP. Hope this helps someone else out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s14280zx Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 After I wrote my update, I ran into the same problem again. After driving for a while pedal started getting stiff again, not releasing clutch. I took the dampener system off, bent the hard line 180 deg. and hooked it directly into the stainless line. When I changed the mast.cyl. and slave, I bought a copper crush washer from advance auto(universal size). This time I bought a nissan crush washer and sure enough, the nissan one has a smaller inside hole than the universal one. I think that washer was the problem all along. Works great now. Alot better pedal than with the dampener. Not much harder to push in either. Thanks for everyones advice. Hope this helps someone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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