MrFancypants Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 I managed to get my spindle pins out without a puller -- the brute force approach with lots of heat and PB blaster got them free. Im sure the fact the car is virtually rust free is the main reason I was so lucky. But then I wasnt so lucky. On one side the spindle pin stripped when I pulled one of the nuts off. On the other side, some dumbass decided to weld one of the nuts onto the spindle pin and I had to lop it off at the wrist. So now I have two spindle pins that are fine other than one end of each is totally boogered. This got me thinking about why the spindle pins are the way they are to begin with. Would it be a crazy idea to have a machine shop cut both spindle pins so they are the same length as the hub section and drill/tap the ends to fit some hardened 1/2" bolts? The bolts would not ride on the ES sleeves due to the compression fit, so I cant see why I would need to worry about the bolt being threaded through the sleeve. I could then reinstall the cut spindle pins and never worry about having to remove them again! Sound good? - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 or you could just have a machine shop remove the pin and replace ti with a new one, actually Ithink wihen people run the tubular lower a arms they use a long hardened bolt that isn't sucha a tight fit with a nut on only 1 end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 There is a lot of force on this area of the hub, and having two bolts threaded into the spindle pin boss is scary at best. A 1/2" bolt is smaller than the ID of the ES bushing sleeves by quite a margin (if I understand your intent). You'd be much better off using a long 5/8" grade 8 bolt run all the way through than what you're talking about. It would be a bit smaller than the 16mm spindle pin (.620 vs .631... I know, a 5/8" bolt should be .625" but actual shank diameter will be close to .620), but once the ES bushing sleeves are clamped in place with the bolt, they MAY be fine. If I were you, and I'm not, I'd just go buy two new spindle pins and call it a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted January 4, 2007 Author Share Posted January 4, 2007 If I were you, and I'm not, I'd just go buy two new spindle pins and call it a day. In retrospect I realized that the thicker smooth portion of the spindle pin is what takes all the shear load, not the dinky threaded tips where the nuts attach. Going with a 1/2 bolt (hardened or not) probably wouldnt be wise Ithink wihen people run the tubular lower a arms they use a long hardened bolt that isn't sucha a tight fit with a nut on only 1 end Maybe a long hardened bolt would do the trick. Ive been considering doing the mortensen toe adjuster modification to my control arms down the road anyway. Thanks for humoring me guys - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 What I did to the control arm was to reduce friction in the suspension. You don't want to do that for toe adjustment, because it is far too coarse. There is a good explanation of why this isn't for toe adjustment at the end of the thread: The adjustment on the outboard ends do not have the "granularity" for infinite increments of movement. Basically, the smallest adjustment is 1/2 turn (180º) of the rod end. At 16 TPI, this then is an adjustment of 1/32" over a length of about 6.75" (on my set-up anyway). This equates to about 1/8" minimum toe adjustment (measured at the tire's OD) when making toe adjustments at the "green" arrow. From page 11 of this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106457 If you want to adjust toe, do a "poor man's toe adjuster" like these: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89111 This is actually a much easier project than modifying the control arm too, so its a win-win. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted January 4, 2007 Author Share Posted January 4, 2007 This is actually a much easier project than modifying the control arm too, so its a win-win. Funny you should mention this... I was JUST reading up on it. Definitely the way to go. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 You should be able to get new pins at the dealer... Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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