HICKL Posted January 10, 2007 Author Share Posted January 10, 2007 Hey Grumpy, I got my cam in today. It calls for a hot lash of .026, sure sounds like a lot. Would you tighten that up a bit or go with it. Secondly, you had earlier recomended seting it up at 4 degrees retarded I think. Is that still what you think? Retarded pushes the power band up right? Is that worth while with my current Performer RPM intake stup? Thanks a lot. Status: Block is clearanced and ready for final assembly. All parts are in short of lifters that should be here by friday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 Cool, you'll have to tell us how this works out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 yes Id still retard it 4. degrees (install it strait up)is advanced 4 degrees in the dot to dot location, yeah, that moves the rpm curve about 200 rpm higher, BUT MAKE DAMN SURE YOU DO IT CORRECTLY and check clearances carefully. and Id lash it no tighter than about .022 but .026 is where its designed to run, so like I stated before,Ive tended to stay where its designed to be vs where you might THINK it should be lashed. yeah the dual plane intake will keep up durring most of the tq curve don,t judge it at idle or when slowly depressing the throttle, find someplace with lots of open pavement,put it in first and run it up to 3000rpm and stomp on the throttle and hold on tightly,and aim the car in the direction your wanting to go,and hold on tight, everytime the tack hits 6300 shift......youll get the hang of it if you live long enought! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 10, 2007 Author Share Posted January 10, 2007 Ok, so to make sure I am following you want it installed at "0" right? Are you referring to piston to valve clearances? If so, what is the best way to do that? My kids play dough? Or do you mean rod clearance? Probably all of the above. Any chance you will be in Houston this weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 All Clearances, USE MOLY ASSEMBY LUBE ON THE BEARINGS Piston To Valve ROD SIDE CLEARANCE ALL BEARING CLEARANCES THRUST BEARING CLEARANCE CAM BUTTON TO FRONT COVER CLEARANCE OIL PUMP DRIVE TO DISTRIB CLEARANCE OIL PUMP PICK-UP TO OIL PAN FLOOR PISTON TO HEAD CLEARANCE RING GAP Rocker SLOT To Rocker Stud Spring Bind HEIGHT@ MAX CAM LIFT Retainer To Valve Guide Rocker To Retainer Pushrod To Guide Plate CAM LOBE TO ROD BOLT BLOCK TO RODS CAM GEAR TO DISTRIBUTOR GEAR AND DON,T FORGET TO PRE-PRIME THE OIL PASSAGES WHILE SLOWLY SPINNING THE ENGINE BY HAND UNTILL ALL THE PUSHRODS LEAK OIL etc.etc.ETC. And Yeah, Strait Up,zero Advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 10, 2007 Author Share Posted January 10, 2007 All Clearances,USE MOLY ASSEMBY LUBE ON THE BEARINGS Piston To Valve ROD SIDE CLEARANCE ALL BEARING CLEARANCES THRUST BEARING CLEARANCE CAM BUTTON TO FRONT COVER CLEARANCE OIL PUMP DRIVE TO DISTRIB CLEARANCE OIL PUMP PICK-UP TO OIL PAN FLOOR PISTON TO HEAD CLEARANCE RING GAP Rocker SLOT To Rocker Stud Spring Bind HEIGHT@ MAX CAM LIFT Retainer To Valve Guide Rocker To Retainer Pushrod To Guide Plate CAM LOBE TO ROD BOLT BLOCK TO RODS CAM GEAR TO DISTRIBUTOR GEAR AND DON,T FORGET TO PRE-PRIME THE OIL PASSAGES WHILE SLOWLY SPINNING THE ENGINE BY HAND UNTILL ALL THE PUSHRODS LEAK OIL etc.etc.ETC. And Yeah, Strait Up,zero Advance OH, THOSE clearances... I thought you had a specific concern. So your not going to be in Houston? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 "So your not going to be in Houston?" SORRY im VISITING THE GRANDSON THIS WEEKEND but IM sure if you take your time youll do just fine! remember its a whole lot easier and cheaper to do it correctly the first time vs replacing parts and doing it over again, if it takes you an additional week its still better than rushing and screwing it up and doing it over so keep that in mind!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuntry Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 I cant wait till you get this thing together...lol. Im not far from you and would love to see how it turns out. Im probably going with the same cam in a couple weeks and want to know what to expect. What carb are you going to run ..... 750? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 11, 2007 Author Share Posted January 11, 2007 Kuntry, I have a holley DP that I will run for starters. Grumpy, thanks for all your input, I'm just messin with you. I have re-built quite a few motors, just always with mostly stock internals. I can handle it. I won't drop any bolts this time. Can't wait to fire it up though....but will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 12, 2007 Author Share Posted January 12, 2007 Man!! My short block is ready, Heads are done, wife is out of town for the weekend, all is good except my lifters won't be delivered till Monday! That really puts a hold on what I can get done this weekend. I can't even put my heads on cuz I need to check valve to piston clearance. Oh well. Maybe UPS will deliver early. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Grumpyvette suggested this cam for my 406, but I went nuts and did a solid tightlash roller instead. I had the cam purchased already, sold it to Glenn McCoy, who had it in is 11:1 383 with trickflow heads, performer rpm intake, 800 Edelbrock. It was a streetable cam in is car WITH A TH350 TRANS. With a manual it would have been fine, better even. It was NOT a mileage setup, with no overdrive. The engine had a bad hone on the cylinders and burned a lot of oil and pinged alot. Glenn is rebuilding it now with a bit less compression, and using a different cam, but we agreed that cam would have been fine to use too - Glenn was just chasing the optimum cam, trying to follow Vizard's overlap and LSA-vs-Displacement method, so the 112 LSA didn't fit. But that's splitting hairs - the 114681 cam is a fine dual purpose cam in a 383 or larger engine, IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 16, 2007 Author Share Posted January 16, 2007 Finally got my lifters in. Was checking my pushrod length last night and it appears to be a little off. I think I need a little shorter push rod. I was looking in Jegs last night and all they list is stock and then plus sizes. They sell them in minus sizes to right?? It's too early to call anybody so I am asking you guys. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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