260DET Posted November 17, 2001 Share Posted November 17, 2001 From whats available at my end of the planet, it looks like the most viable rear disc brake setup will involve using solid rotors. In particular, the early 300ZX 4 stud rotors, which should slip on without alteration. For those who aren't familiar, these rotors are 10mm thick, have 47mm offset and are 290mm in diameter. They are viable because I can get a set of locally used lightweight calipers which incorporate a handbrake mechanism and a 45mm piston, whereas for any thicker ventilated rotors that might fit, only old design heavy all iron calipers are available. To get to the point, has anyone had any problems with solid rotors on the rear warping after heavy use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tom sixbey Posted November 30, 2001 Share Posted November 30, 2001 what kind of racing do you do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted November 30, 2001 Share Posted November 30, 2001 Two responses come to mind with that question. 1: Probably not with the minor portion of the braking being done at the rear, 2: if they were warped, the symptons may be hard to detect being no wheel shimmy occurs, and unless bias was perfect, and you were constantly on the edge of traction, I doubt you could tell other than micing it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted December 1, 2001 Share Posted December 1, 2001 A little caveat here... I heard the other day that the main cause for warpage in brake rotors is tightening down the lugs too tight (like with an impact wrench)...makes sense...thought I'd pass it along... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted December 1, 2001 Author Share Posted December 1, 2001 Thanks for the tips, the car is used occasionally for supersprints which involve timed laps of a racing circuit, not wheel to wheel racing. As I see it, the 300zx solid rotors are larger in diameter than most and therefore you get better leverage, better stopping performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted December 1, 2001 Share Posted December 1, 2001 i use these rotors on rear on my 77z with turbo motor .car is used for drivers schools at laguna,sears point ,thunderhill.never any problems with rear.i run willwood dynalite 2 piston calipers on a .5" aluminum plate brackit.i dont run park brake-took all that stuff off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 2, 2001 Share Posted December 2, 2001 I can try to get some part numbers of you want but the setup my friend runs very successfully is a 280Z (I think Z and not ZX) rotor that slips over the 240 lugs after you take all the drum crap and backing plate off. he uses a VW type 3 caliper. The calipers runs about $60 per and the rotors in a slotted model were about $80 per. No E-Brake....very clean..must make a custom bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 Problem is I have to have a mechanical handbrake to be street legal. The PBR combination type caliper will have to do, not pretty but they are light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 I believe the rotors you're referring to are the same ones I'm using with the rear disk conversion package going to CNC production shortly(prototypes to be completed by mid-week if they weren't finished on Friday FWIW, see web for update). Uses 11-3/8's Z31 rear rotors and 240SX calipers (retains ebrake). Those rotors (brembo preferred for metallurgy) will give you greater leverage and heat sink. Torquing wheel nuts to spec (and not beyond)is standard procedure to avoid prematurely warping rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 they are brembo...yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted December 5, 2001 Author Share Posted December 5, 2001 The topic question was prompted by an experience with the original solid front rotors. Fitted Toyota 4 spots and went out to the track. They worked quite well but got a bit hot, actually they turned blue in colour. Driving home there was a bit of shudder through the steering wheel when braking. Checked the rotors with a dial gauge when I got home and found they were warped, not badly but over max specified runout. Obviously the 4 spots were too effective Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted December 5, 2001 Share Posted December 5, 2001 i have the early toy 4x4 calipers on front with oem rotors and i warped mine at thunderhill.this same set up with drilled rotors and carbotech pads didnt warp.but fluid got hot and got a bubble in it so set up is at %110 capacity on track.i am switching to 84 300 zx front rotors drilled with 88 toy 4x4 calipers and porterfield pads for track use next week .i have a 2 day event at thunderhill dec 15&16.i will post results of brake use when i get back.what i am looking for is no warpage and no maintenence work when i get home except for pad switch to street pads when i put street tires back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted December 6, 2001 Author Share Posted December 6, 2001 So what brake fluid do you use, Randy? I have been using Castrol SRF but at around US$55 per liter.....Now I'm thinking of using a DOT 5.1 grade borate ester based synthetic. As far as brake pads go, for my new big front Outlaw setup I'm getting custom pads made using a AKHF2R material, whatever that is. Recommended for road and moderate track use with low rotor wear. We'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted December 6, 2001 Share Posted December 6, 2001 Yo 260det, Where are you getting your outlaws from? Locally, or are you going to import a complete set up? I could use some on mine. Cheers Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted December 7, 2001 Author Share Posted December 7, 2001 Douglas, I already have a couple of sets of Outlaw calipers, am using a 3000 Series set on mine together with heavily modified Commodore 28mm rotors and made up adaptor plates on Datsun 240K hubs. The Outlaws bolt straight on, after using Recoil inserts to rethread the stock lugs to 7/16 UNF, and allow 290mm dia rotors to be used. A lot of work but if you want good brakes........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted December 7, 2001 Share Posted December 7, 2001 My god man, you do create work for yourself. Might be a little over kill for me. Cheers, Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted December 19, 2001 Author Share Posted December 19, 2001 Well I bit the bullet and bought some DOT 5.1 grade brake fluid, non silicone Motul brand, made in France. Given that I hate changing brake fluid and the high temperature situation, 5.1 grade has a higher wet boiling point than 4 grade and therefore should preform satisfactorily for longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted December 19, 2001 Share Posted December 19, 2001 I recommend AP600. Replace it before every track run because the wet boil point is low. Dry boil temp is 600F and it is safe for paint. I think SPV racing @Australia stocks it. Regards, Kazu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 19, 2001 Share Posted December 19, 2001 posting on what the thread topic is actually about... I have noticed that my rotors were a little warped recently, then one day on the freeway messing around, I put on the emergency brake, like held the button and pulled up slightly. to my surprise the car shook, I actually warped the back, not the fronts, and that was why my steering wheel doesn't shake, which I didn't understand. So, just thought I'd post to the topic, you know, instead of all you people changing the subject..... Sorry Kris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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