Guest mattrp Posted December 24, 2001 Share Posted December 24, 2001 I have in my garage a S&W 8 point roll bar kit that I am about to install in my 72 240 with the help of an experienced welder. I prepared all the pad locations, and will be cutting/bending the bars etc to make the kit a fit in my car. But when it comes to finally welding the bars in I have a question. How did you guys who have installed a cage support your vehicle while you did the installation so that there would be no twisting of the vehicle after you were done. I assume you supported the body off the suspension, but where/how. Any other hints before I do this??? Thanks, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted December 25, 2001 Share Posted December 25, 2001 Matt, When I did mine I had already done the floors and subframe connectors, so I don't know if this will help, but here goes: I placed one jackstand under the front Xmember, one under each chassis legs, about under the seats area, and jack under the diff area. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted December 26, 2001 Share Posted December 26, 2001 I had already replaced the rockers,pans,subframe connecters and front frame rails before the cage but I had the cage welded up with the car on the ground at ride highth hope this helps Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 26, 2001 Share Posted December 26, 2001 Ditto to what the above posters said...I already had the 2X3 boxed frames in place... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drewz Posted December 27, 2001 Share Posted December 27, 2001 My floor and frame rails are so stiff that I went four point. My car is a weekend racer and daily driver so four is good enough for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted December 27, 2001 Share Posted December 27, 2001 When I had the first 12 points installed, the car was pretty solid..it had good floors, rockers, etc... I had it on a hoist, and was lifting on the frame rail at the firewall, and lifted the rear by the seatbelt mounting location... (it is the main structural box that all of the z's measurements are taken from.. Now I lift the car by the same rear mount. (the roll bar portion of the cage mounts above that point) the front now lifts at the front part of the cage were it goes from the firewall/floor mount to behind the compression rod mounting point. Sure makes lifting the car a snap with it being sooooo low to the ground. Oh and i left the front and back top tower braces in, and the triangulating braces in the engine bay in (4 braces in total that were already in the car when I started.) The doors clunk perfectly, and all the seams are the same as they were before I started...The car does not rattle or creak anymore.. The entire cage was installed with most of the interior still in place, and comes within mm of touching in many many places..it goes around the dash within 1/2 inch too. Looks real slick, and is a super tight fit. You can hardly notice it from outside the car unless you really look for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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