Ferd/289 Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 I bought a HF Automatic Compressor Drain Kit yesterday and installed it. My compressor will not build up to 125 psi. It continues to run up to about 80psi. When I turn it off. I have no leak except for a newly discovered small leak at the hardline to tank threaded connection. I wonder if that leak can cause a 'early open' to the newly installed drain valve? I bubbletested all other connections and they do not leak while compressor is stopped at 80psi. Does the 'pressure switch unloader valve' work so that if there was some kind of leak it would open the drain valve, or let air out of the pressure valve?? My plan now is to fix the 'hardline to tank' leak and see if I fixed the problem. But I am curious as to how the 'pressure switch unloader valve' works Ferd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 The unloader switch, if linked via tubing to the electrical switch on the tank is a schraeder valve to blow down the air line between the head discharge valve on the HP section of the compressor to the check valve. This allows the compressor to start up unloaded. The automatic compressor drains work on a cycle theory. It waits for the differential of pressures between full load and cut in pressure to toggle internal parts that will blow down the condensate in the bottom of the tank everytime the compressor cycles. If you are in a humid area, they will generally NOT clear the tank completely. Thye also have a real problem with small bits of debris clogging the valve mechanisim and hanging open causing an persistent air leak and excessive compressor run time. I do not like them, nor will I recomend them to any customers. I prefer a float-actuated condensate drain that allows condensation to accumulate OUTSIDE the receiver, instead of on the bottom of the tank. Any leak will cause a problem, fix them all. If the valve is hung, you should hear it. Make sure your gauge is reading correctly, as well. I hope you plumbed the drain off the bottom of your compressor with an isolation valve so you can shut it off, and manually drain the tank. If you did, it should be a simple matter of closing that valve to eliminate teh blowdown valve from the system. If your compressor is stationary, you may consider running a length of piping to the side of the tank where you don't have to crawl under anything in order to access the drains. This piping, if I were installing it, would be stainless steel, so it won't corrode. Brass is an option, but I don't like it as finding pressure-rated brass can be a problem sometimes. Good Luck! Where in Texas are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted January 13, 2007 Share Posted January 13, 2007 I bought that kit and replaced everything but the valve and adapter - the hose is just junk and I wasn't happy with the compression fittings either....Mine works fine - I have my compressor in the basement where it is cool and air conditioned, and my tank stays dry... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferd/289 Posted January 13, 2007 Author Share Posted January 13, 2007 I am in the dallas area. Where are you located? Ferd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferd/289 Posted January 13, 2007 Author Share Posted January 13, 2007 what did you use to make a float-actuated condensate drain ? At this point I think I will take your advice and plumb a easy to get to manual drain. I dont get much concentrate but I would like to be able to drain the little I get easily. Ferd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferd/289 Posted January 14, 2007 Author Share Posted January 14, 2007 got the leaks fixed. Some said that hose was poor quality and that was one problem. A hose blew from pressure valve to tank on initial pump up. When compressor not running no air comes out of it (surprise to me) so I did not realize it blew. Seems to work now. Nice having an automatic drain. Any more problems with it, I uninstall and install a 'convenient' manual drain. Lots of fun from HF for $7 on an icey day in Dallas. Ferd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 I'm in So Cal. There is an Ingersoll-Rand Air Center in Dallas, and they should have a load of little gadgets for draining condensate on demand. Usually Steam Traps work well as float-style drains (Condensate Drains) but unless you have access to them cheap, they can be spendy. Most of the Robodrains and Drainalls are more geared toward bigger stuff (eliminatating gallons per hour, instead of ounces!) but a good alternative is to run the smaller piping to a "T", and then getting the most radical bell-reducer you can (1/8 to 2" comes to mind...) and making a 'bulge' under your drain line, you can then use a 2" close nipple or whatever to construct a 'reservoir' to hold that condensate till you get around to draining it. Winter is not when you will have the condensate problem, ambient humidity is lower then anyway. It's the summer when you have hot air and even low relative humidity----hot air holds more moisture than cold air! And of course if you were in Houston.... Good to see you got it dialed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferd/289 Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 TonyD you are correct. when I removed the drain valve it was kind of stuffed with crap. Soon to clog. I, along with you, will not recommend this product. Ferd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.