Bartman Posted January 29, 2007 Author Share Posted January 29, 2007 When I didn't have a welder I would countersink the trim holes with either a drill bit slightly larger than the hole or a countersink bit. I then proceed to use a very small straight edge screwdriver and small hammer to lightly tap the edge of the hole. I do this at the 12-3-6-9 o'clock positions. I proceed to fill the trim holes with acid core solder. The countersinking of the hole allows you to buildup enough solder to level besides having an area to situate itself. The indentation of the screwdriver leaves a slot for the liquid solder to anchor once it hardens. I use an orbital sander - NOT a grinder (because it will rip off the solder) using #80 grit with a hard pad and buzz over the area to level the solder and to scratch up the surrounding area for minor filler work! NOTE - acid core solder liquifies at a higher temperature and I've found that this type of solder works very well with filling trim holes; better than rosen core. Be sure to clean the surface well to remove flux which will cause corrision - then metal prep, prior to any topcoating - whether it be filler or primer!! An alternative to filling the trim holes is to follow the same procedure except you would use plastic filler or alum/metal filler in place of soldering. Ernie/RacerX You stated that you used solder before you had a welder. So if you have a welder, you think that welding the hole is the best option? In the Car Craft article I posted in my initial post, the author wrote that: "...welding or brazing the hole is a high-heat process that would invariably create some panel distortion and stuffing holes with plastic filler is an inferior repair, temporarty at best...". I think just about everyone here recommends welding, with the differences just being in the actual welding procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage-TechZ Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Believe me Bart......go to the best hardware store and pick up a bar of copper at least an eighth inch thick and grind the proper surface shape needed...eg:curve or flat ? I used epoxy to adhese the copper to a rare earth magnet flush to the inner piece. This way it can be reused and you don't have to screw with holding it. The rare earth magnet won't move if your mig wire taps it on start-up. Be sure and have a soaking wet paper towel next to you to immediatly cool the area after you nail it. Don't worry about rusting....the HO2 will evaporate dry.Warpage will be then avoided.Set your welder to a low voltage setting and don't forget to clean the walls of the holes with a bastard fine file. Best regards...............Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted January 30, 2007 Author Share Posted January 30, 2007 Believe me Bart......go to the best hardware store and pick up a bar of copper at least an eighth inch thick and grind the proper surface shape needed...eg:curve or flat ?I used epoxy to adhese the copper to a rare earth magnet flush to the inner piece. This way it can be reused and you don't have to screw with holding it. The rare earth magnet won't move if your mig wire taps it on start-up. Be sure and have a soaking wet paper towel next to you to immediatly cool the area after you nail it. Don't worry about rusting....the HO2 will evaporate dry.Warpage will be then avoided.Set your welder to a low voltage setting and don't forget to clean the walls of the holes with a bastard fine file. Best regards...............Vinny Thanks for the info and good to hear from you again Vinny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wickiewicked240z Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Im no welding professional but i just welded the holes in the hatch were the datsun 240z embles go because im installing a BRE style wing, its pretty easy just don't let get to hot, don't try to weld the whole hole at once. jump from hole to hole.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Bart, I just did this process with my 240. If we are talking about the body side molding trim those hole were pretty small. Just practice, practice, practice on some scrap. Duplicate the hole size on the scrap and try filling it. Start at the outside edge of the hole and try to weld around the diameter of the hole slowly working inward. Mig welding is pretty easy to catch on but try on some scrap. Careful about hammering to "lower the spot" because you are on a body line and makes the body work more difficult. You would have to do a lot of welding to warp that panel since it is such a small area. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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