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Power regained but now I have no Spark at Coil :-(


george.bryant

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I got the Skyline going again running fairly alright again. I changed the Coil with ignition module, the AFM and the Distributor (all these parts are used). That seems to do the trick....for a while anyway.

 

I then made my way to the gas station 2km away and put in a reasonable amount of petrol. I then drove about 500m around down the road, stopped at the red light, took off from the intersection and then the car lost all power and started misfiring badly. I pulled over and it reved irratically between 650rpm-750 rpm before it stopped running.

 

After that happened it wouldnt start. It would turn over strong with fuel pump operating. I checked for spark and had none from the h.t. wires, so then checked the coil's ignition wire for spark but there was nothing. Changed back to the other coil and still no spark. Wiring appears ok to the coil...:rolleyesg Ive unplugged it and plugged it back in a few times.

 

I'm so lost & frustrated by all this!!Surely SOMEONE can help:coollook:. The car is stuck in town in an awkward spot to tow it back.

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Thanks Nick :-)

 

I got it running by switching coils, drove 100m and it felt like it was running on 2 cylinders and then going up the hill to my house was a nightmare...

 

I bought a brand new gt40rt coil before and fitted it but no go. It must be the dizzy! But i've tried two and have the same issue...They both stuffed? Could something be blowing them...?

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If the ignitor on the coil is going, or improperly grounded, then you will have coil problems. Same goes for our 81-83 ZXT's here.

 

The big "Power Transistor" on the coil needs to be grounded for it to properly gate the power to the coil. If it's going out, or has bad contact, your car will just quit.

 

Another thing to try is hitting the thing with some freez-it component cooler. It may be that it's in formative stages of heat related failure, so it fails when warmed up, and won't work again till the component has cooled. If hitting it with freez-it lets it fire up and run, then you have it isolated, and will need to replace the component. Once they start failing getting warm, the only get worse, leading eventually to total failure. Which may be where you are now!

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Can you please show me a picture of this ignitor that your referring to, its definately not big on my motor. If we're talking about the same thing, i've tried 2. When i crank the motor i get absolutely no spark, zilche, nothing!

 

Are there tests I can perform with a multimeter to help get to the source of the problem??

 

I've tried the other distributor again and I've also tried relocating the coil & ignitor to other places to figure out if grounding on the coil was an issue.

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I did a test out of the FSM. Theres T shaped plug with two terminals (one + & -, i'm assuming?) that connects to the Ignition module.

 

The FSM has a testtable and one of the tests is called the "Power Supply Circuit" test. It involves connecting the positive terminal of the multimeter to the | terminal of the plug, and connect ground terminal of the multimeter to the ignition coil bracket. Then tun the ket to the "ON" position.

 

Two results and two actions of FSM:

 

Result-------------- Action

1. 11.5 - 12.5 volts Procees to step 6.

2. Below 11.5 volts Check wiring from ignition switch to I.C. unit.

 

 

My result was 0.06 volts :icon50: What should I do? Also I had a issue when I was trying to start it. For about 5 attempts the fuel pump would just keep running instead of priming it for 5 seconds or whatever th duration of time is it does it for, it wouldnt stop unless I turned the key to off.

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