Preparing for my turbo build, input is appreciated - parts list inside

[ihatejoefitz]

Joe, what kind of fitting are you running in your drain plug? I read about alternatives such as using the existing feed line as the return and running the new feed line from the plug (like yours), or installing a sump.

 

I don't remember exact size I used. I did a lot of running around looking for a fitting that would fit the stock threads but I gave up and retapped it with I think 3/8 NPT Tap. Then I got an elbow fitting with 3/8 NPT on one end and 5/8 barbed fitting on the other. You can buy the tap and fitting at O'reilly's, make sure its pipe thread, though. Also, with this mod, you will need to keep at least a 1/4 tank of gas; Something you probably do already if you use the fickle stock sending unit.

 

-Joe

 

BTW, if I had to do it all over again, I would have used the existing feed line as a return. It is a pain fastening the lines because they run above the driveline making for a very small work area.

[DCZ]

I used a 75 fuel tank in my 73zt and ran a new 3/8 supply line and used the stock supply as the return. I get fuel starvation at or before the 1/4 tank level. I don't why I have this problem (holes in the pickup tube?), but I had the tank boiled and sealed at a local radiator shop before installation. I am probably going to upgrade my system to use a surge tank for added reliability and (hopefully) to use more of my tank capacity.

[ktm]

I am leaning towards installing a sump on my stock tank. I will remove only enough material (maybe 4-in. in diameter) for the gas to freely flow into the sump. This way the sump should have a make-shift baffle above it.

 

Again, thanks.

[Doug71zt]

If you are going to sump your tank, just hole-saw a couple 1 inch holes near the front of the sump area. Leave the tank alone near the back of the sump as that will help hold the fuel in the sump during accel.

 

You have a lot of un-needed expensive stuff in your list if you are going to 350 hp. Spend on good engine management, and a WB02. Get some larger injectors from the sticky list. A 60-1/stg3 or stg5 hot side turbo would be decent - or talk to Dr. T about what one he recommends. Get a fuel rail for sure, stock reg is fine for now. I run an MSD 2225 pump which is OK for quiet and works fine. If you already have a 240mm flywheel, don't bother with the aftermarket one.

 

There are a number of us here that are hard in the 11s with not large outlays of cash.

 

Cheers

 

Doug

[Clifton]

Don't let the low prices of China-Taiwan parts fool you. There intercoolers are just as good as Greedy and HKS, just cheaper as labor is cheaper. I'm running one and have been running an Ebay 35mm wastegate for a few years. works perfect. I would stay away from the turbos though. If you are thinking about baffling your fuel tank I can post some picks of mine. You need a donor efi tank and a welder. You can run an in-tank pump and the efi baffle and never have fuel issues. It's a little more work than a surge tank with an extra pump but it is the best way to do it. I can auto X with 1/4 tank and it's fine.

[ktm]

Doug, your description of the sump configuration is very similar to how I saw mine. The remaining material above the sump would act as a baffle, keeping fuel in the sump during hard accelerations and cornering.

 

I do not have a 240mm flywheel as my original engine is an L24 with an E31 head. This also means I do not have an electric fuel pump or FPR. I'll modify my plans and pick up a Walbro 255 pump but stick to a rising rate FPR.

 

Since I need to get a new flywheel, I have decided to go ahead and pick up an aftermarket one.

 

Clifton, thanks for your input on the intercooler. It's not that I only want the best for my car, but I am a firm believer that you get what you pay for. I live by the mantra if you are going to do something, do it once and do it right.

 

Based on everyone's input so far, I think I can shave at least $500 to $600 off of my 250 HP build, and probably $300 off of the 350 hp build. Sounds good to me.

[Gollum]

There IS a reason to use a rising rate regulator. To run the stock injectors and injection over 9-10psi, you will need to raise your fuel rail pressure in proportion to boost. Stock injectors and injection can take you to about 15-16psi and about 270-290 rwhp with good rail pressure.

 

It is endless. Good luck.

 

I don't mean to hijack, but I think I can stay on topic while getting some answers of my own (maybe even help out a bit).

 

Why exactly do you NEED a rising rate FPR? Why not just get an adjustable FPR? In theory the stock ECU is designed to enrich with boost and should keep good fuel curves even up to 15+psi right? I thought the main thing we had to worry about was running out of fuel with the added air from 10+psi that the stock system can't handle.

 

The reason I don't like the idea of a RRFPR is that it's going to make high boost overly rich and it just seems to make more sense to get closer to ideal 12.5-11.0 under boost. I know that without being able to control ignition and such we need to be very careful if you plan on keeping the stock ECU, but I'm just curious how far we can take the stock EFI if the mods are done intelligently.

 

I know that ktm will probably need to be going for aftermarket efi if he's planning on 350+RWHP, but I'm just looking for more insight as to why a rising rate FPR is so NEEDED in your opinion (not that I disagree at all, please don't take it like that, I'm just looking to learn something here)

[Slow_Old_Car]

ktm, you have forgotten about couplers for your intercooler setup, or maybe your calling them hoses, which if you are running 3-4 ply silicon's and t-bolt clamps, it will ad up to a couple hundred bucks fairly quick.

 

additionally, your estimate of $100 for IC plumbing is accurate, but only if you are doing the welding and fab work, otherwise $300-400 seems to be the going rate that i've seen for proper mandrel systems.

 

depending on the type of fuel lines you run, $100 is accurate, or under par by a hundred or two if you are planning on some fancy braided line job with nice fittings. $100 will get you worm gear clamps and some aeroquip twist loc hose.

 

as for the boost gauge, save $100 and run mechanicle.

 

injectors, find some used third gen supras for $100 and call it a day.

 

and what others have said about walboro's or bosch units is right, good cheap pumps for your application. your not going for 1000whp, so you don't need a fuel pump for one.

[ktm]

Slow Old Car, my original post is a few months old. I am a looooon ways down the build path now. I just purchased my clutch and flywheel (ACT clutch, Fidanza flywhee) and the engine is ready to go back into the car.

 

My fuel system did cost about 2.5 times as much as I originally planned. I was going to go with hardline, but I went with Earl's braided SS front and back with their Ano-tuff fittings. I picked up a Walbro GLP392 (?) pump and a 40 micron filter.

 

I found a screaming deal on some used Supra injectors ($50 shipped for all 6) and had them cleaned and tested by Mr. Injector.

 

I've priced things out a bit more as I've been going along.

 

So far, with my aftermarket EMS, powder coated parts, fueling, turbo, etc., I am rapidly closing in on the $6000.