ZDreamin72 Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 WHere can i find a replacement booster...or a different set-up. ive looked on here about it, and found a couple options. just kinda confussed about which one will work. im not lookin to do any modification, or welding, but i would like a better set-up and feel than what i currently have(Stock). ive noticed a wilwood set-up used by a few people, actually pictured their attempts and sucesses. wondering if i can just ditch the whole booster set-up; i race go-karts, obviously a bunch different. But i'd like to have the same braking feel, super positive feeling. In a go-kart the brakes are rear only with dual cylinders, and one caliper, the brakes are fully applied with the motion of about half an inch. Now it's obvious that i cant have a half an inch of motion before full aplication of the brakes, although somethin coparative would be totally awesome. Now aside from the go-karts i have driven, and ford focus svt, and an mitsubishi lancer evolution viii, those brakes have felt nothin but impressive, not quite a go-kart, but somethin closer to those feelings would be awesome; mayeb im jsut lookin for somethin more modern. Now mods are an option but i definately wanna keep it as david(me) friendly as possible, im not stupid, but im no mechanical genius either. gimme as many options and links as you possibly can, and i'll try to figure somethin out...of course more questions will follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 With a properly functioning brake system, the pedal should be relatively high and firm. The system was designed to consume a certain amount of fluid volume from the master cylinder before the pads are hard up against the rotors, and the shoes are hard up against the drums, any pedal travel after that point is component flex or problems in the system. After all the space is taken up, the pedal shouldn't move much....maybe a little, but at this point braking effort should be proportional to energy excerted on the pedal. If you have too much pedal travel or a soft pedal, that means that for some reason, one of 2 things is happening: 1: The fluid volume requirement of the actuated hydraulics has increased 2: The hydraulic system has air in it. To rule out #1, some diagnosis is in order. First, we must rule out hydraulic leaks, and make sure that the calipers and wheel cylinders are functioning properly. A visual check, including peeling back the wheel cylinder boots should take care of this. Next thing to check is front wheel bearing adjustment. If your wheel bearings are loose, it will have the same effect as sticking a screwdriver between the pad and rotor and prying the piston back into the caliper. Everyone who has ever done a brake job knows that when the pistons are pressed all the way back into the caliper, it takes a couple pedal pumps to move the pistons back out of the caliper against the pads and rotor to acheive a solid pedal. Make sure the wheel bearings are tight and have no play. The surface of the caliper piston must be perfectly parallel with the rotor surface at all times, its it's not, you must determine why either the rotor is out of alignment or why the caliper is out of alignment. I've seen bent caliper mounting ears on previously wrecked cars that caused the calliper to be out of alignment. Then check the rear shoe adjustment. If the wheel cylinders pistons have to extend to take up excessive space between the shoes and the drum, that is fluid volume, and will result in a low pedal. Properly adjusted brake shoes will have a slight drag with the drum and wheel on, with no pedal application. If the shoes are adjusted properly and the wheel bearings are tight, and you've verified that there isn't any visual movement at the front calipers during brake application (with the engine running...so that you see the benefit of the vacuum booster), then deeper diagnosis is in order. Next, all the brake hoses need to be clamped off. Most auto parts stores sell proper line locks for about $5 or so. With the engine running, and all of the hoses clamped off, the pedal should feel like a rock. If it doesn't, something upstream of the clamps (master cylinder, proportioning valves, etc) is the cause of the problem, or there is air in the system. If the pedal is nice and firm, you have determined that the problem lies downstream of the clamps, because the part of the system that you've isolated by clamping off the lines is working correctly. With the engine running, hold your foot hard on the pedal, and get a helper to release the line clamps one by one. It is normal for the pedal to drop a little as each line is released. The wheel or axle causing the problem will cause the pedal to drop excessively. That is the wheel or axle that you need to scrutenize (sp?) to determine for what reason excessive fluid volume is require to operate. If the pedal feels like crap even with the lines clamped off, then find some plugs (bolts of the proper thread pitch wrapped in teflon tape will do) and thread them into the master cylinder fittings after removing the lines. Step on the pedal....it shouldn't move more than 1/4 inch, if that. If the pedal is still soft, either the master cylinder is full of air or the lip seals are worn out and either bypassing internally or leaking into the booster. Check for fluid leaks into the booster, if you have a leak, replace the master. If the booster is dry, try to bleed the master. If bleeding doesn't help, replace it. More later....I'm tired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDreamin72 Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 wow man that was intense, where what i was lookin for was where i can get a new booster or seomthin similar, since i know the booster is bad, causing the engine to raise rpm at a stop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 Well, you put a whole lot into your first post that initiated that whole explanation. Simply put, if you want nice hard brakes make sure everything is working exactly as it's suppose to and replace the rubber brake lines with braided lines, that makes a huge difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 S30 two seater? 2+2 booster is bigger, bolts straight on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrommitZ Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 The 2+2 booster only fits the late s30 body, 280Z, not the 240Z. It doesn't clear the clutch cylinder on the 240Z. I gave the one I bought to a friend with a 280Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Call me tomorrow, I can get you a rebuilt booster or rebuild your original 310-947-7014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZDreamin72 Posted February 26, 2007 Author Share Posted February 26, 2007 lbhsbZ, how much can i get a rebuiilt unit for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 ^^^ Ditto... ^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 I show 4 different boosters for the 240/260/280z . Give me a call at the number above, and I'll figure out which one you need. I've got 2 or 3 of them in stock, but if I don't have the one you need I can rebuild yours. I can ship it back out 2 days after I receive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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