Mikelly Posted September 10, 2001 Share Posted September 10, 2001 Over the weekend I got most of the unit welded up in the Jig and I'm probably gonna finish up the test unit tonight and test fit it to the car again for a final fit. The only issue is that buyers may have to remove a bit of material from the diameter the poly bushings on the outter half of the unit (Where the strut housing mounts to the arm). I'm gonna contact a source of Pete's today for some Metric Tubing, but I'm not sure I'll have much luck. If not, I'll go with smaller, rather than larger ID tubing to machine for a snug fit. Pete saw my workhorse when he came to my bachelor party Saturday night and can comment to the design. I'll get picks up this week I promise. I had a worm that got into my harddrive and took my machine down for two weeks and I could only get on from work, or once in a while on the kid's machine at home. Anyway, Lost a lot of pics and data, but I now have my machine back up and running and I'll take some pics and get them out on Yahoo... Now, the reason this process has taken so much longer is this: When Chris and I came up with the front units, and then our partnership broke up, I had examples already created to use as templates to make the front units. That is not the case with the rears and I had to go out and re-design them. These work like the front units but have two threaded blocks instead of heim joints. Now, here is the big issue: One of these control arms (Not one pair, but a single unit)takes about 3 hours to make. So after the initial sets that have been pre-paid are completed and sent out, the price on the rear units will have to go up. I'm not sure how much just yet, but it will have to to offset the amount of additional time it takes to make these units. About the rear units themselves, I can tell you this much: They allow about 1/4 to half inch of toe adjustment at the turnbuckle, which increases substantially out at the tires edge, and you will gain about 3-4 degrees of negative camber (Probably more) with these arms. The units are made of 1.5 inch boxed .125 steel and are heavier than the factory unit, and much more heavyduty. Thats it for now. I'll have some pics up hopefully by tonight! Mike [ September 10, 2001: Message edited by: Mikelly ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 10, 2001 Author Share Posted September 10, 2001 I thought I was the consumate gentleman! That's my story... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 11, 2001 Share Posted September 11, 2001 Mike's got a nice jig set up for this. I saw the prototype that was about 70% done - the hard part (adjustable end) was finished and it looks great. I started saving already . But that investment got a bit sidelined Saturday night . Oh, and Mike behaved himself fairly well at the bachelor party - almost too well. Was a lot of fun. No touching, right, Mike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Skillet Posted February 26, 2002 Share Posted February 26, 2002 I am looking for a toe-out adjustment for the passenger side rear wheel. I have used the aluminium/delrin bushings in the past but the noise after a few months is terrible! Mike, do you have an ajustable rear control arm that is for sale? I have been reading posts about you making one but I have not seen if and where it is availiable. Can anyone give me some direction? I want it to have proper rear alignment AND it has to be quiet. Thanks, Chris Larson I have a 77 280Z (my first car) and in the process of converting to a 383 Vello Rossa conv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted March 1, 2002 Author Share Posted March 1, 2002 Chris, My adjustable control arms are for sale and yes, the rears come with toe out adjustment. You can view them at: http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z2001 Click on "My Photo Album" at the left and look at the pics! Contact me offline for pricing. Mike Kelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 1, 2002 Share Posted March 1, 2002 > ...the rears come with toe out adjustment. Personally, I would prefer the optional toe-in adjustment... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted March 1, 2002 Author Share Posted March 1, 2002 John, Ya got me! I have TOE Adjustment...Hows that? MIKE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Skillet Posted March 2, 2002 Share Posted March 2, 2002 Mike, I will consider the control arm. Can you email me the price of one control arm (passenger side) at mrchris2@swbell.net. Also, has anyone ever made an offset urethane control arm bushing? I picture it to be just like the alum/delin (Motorsport) but made out of urethane and a steel sleeve insert. It might also need an large thin hex side to it for adjustability. I beleive this would fix my problem in the rear and keep the cost down. I am considering buying some urethane stock and working with my machinest at work. Can you guys give me any thoughts on this? Thanks! Chris Larson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted March 2, 2002 Author Share Posted March 2, 2002 Chris, You've got mail! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted March 3, 2002 Share Posted March 3, 2002 "I am considering buying some urethane stock and working with my machinest at work. Can you guys give me any thoughts on this? " Chris, if you just want a proper OEM type alignment and don't need longterm adjustability then I'd reccomend a visit to a good suspension shop. They have all the hydraulic jacks/frames to tweak twisted 'local' (ie. not complete frame alteration front to back) parts to get you back to OE spec if they're a very good shop. A fine race shop locally has to square up varying pickup points regularly on some rides and they're very good with their tools....and their setup reads to .01 on settings and they actually pursue their dial in to that degree as well. Mike's stuff is great but if you're not looking for the race use/custom setup then you may want to spend less and achieve your OE type setting. I have parts I want to install but I'm trying to wait so I can install them all at once so I don't have to pay the suspension shop several times for my alignment etc.. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Skillet Posted March 4, 2002 Share Posted March 4, 2002 Ross, I took my car to the frame shop to see about getting it tweeked. They said the toe-in was indeed bad but the frame is very straight. They loosened up the front control arm mount and pushed it outward and re-tightned it. They said if I replaced all the worn rubber bushings and tried to "force" the control arm out it should be pretty close. I do not think pushing it out will acheive the correct alignment I am looking for. I agree with replacing all the rubber bushings but I would rather use urethane. I figure an offset urethane would be great to fix this problem. I am looking into performance and handling issues so Mikes control arms are not out of question. Here are my plans for my Z (this Z was my first car and has over 300,000 miles on it!) (not in this order) 1) install SBC (alum heads, intake, water pump) (target 400 hp, considering Edlebrock crate pkg) 2) Either a T5 or T56 tranny 3) LSD (if I can find one!) (with CV shafts??) 4) 5 lug conversion 5) Toyota brakes on front and possibly redo the 280ZX disks on the rear (they never worked right) 6) Velo Rossa body kit. 7) Ajustable shocks and performance springs. Given this info, any suggestions on control arms, coil overs, etc would be appreciated. I am not going to race it on the track so the adjustability of the custom control arms I do not feel would be necessary. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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