getZ Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 If you are worried about the sump lines running out the back you can do what I did. Run a pickup line from the back of the tank into to sump. When I cut several little holes in the bottom of the tank I was able to reach through and feed the line into the sump (or where the sump was to be welded). I used 6 AN bulkhead fittings into an aluminum fuel line. Somebody around here used solid stainless steel lines. On the return line, I ran a line down to the bottom again with aluminum line and a bulk head 6AN fitting so the gas doesn't make so much noise sloshing down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 If you are worried about the sump lines running out the back you can do what I did. Run a pickup line from the back of the tank into to sump. When I cut several little holes in the bottom of the tank I was able to reach through and feed the line into the sump (or where the sump was to be welded). I used 6 AN bulkhead fittings into an aluminum fuel line. Somebody around here used solid stainless steel lines. On the return line, I ran a line down to the bottom again with aluminum line and a bulk head 6AN fitting so the gas doesn't make so much noise sloshing down. You have pics of your setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 sorry, I had few pics before I welded it up, but I lost all the photos when the computer crashed last time. It's fairly simple. Make sure you prep your tank for welding first. Drill out the original fuel line and a new hole for an extra return line (just above the old one is a nice flat spot. Make sure the bit size you use is just slightly bigger than the bulkhead AN fitting. Since I was adding a sump to the bottom of the tank, there were now four 2 inch holes on the bottom of the tank. Form the line from the bulkhead fitting into the bottom and back of the sump (through one of the holes). I would leave at least half an inch of gap to the back of the sump. Tighten down the newly formed tube to the bulkhead. This is where it gets a little tricky because you can't get to the inside of the tank to tighten down the bulkhead nuts very easily. I had to reach through the sending unit hole with a short combination wrench. I also tied a string to the end of the wrench so when I dropped it I could retrieve it. The return line doesn't have to go into the sump, but I left mine at the bottom of the tank. Without the line you will hear the retun line spew gas back into the tank when it gets low on gas. Using an aluminum clamp minus the rubber, I riveted the lines down to the bottom of tank inside the sump(not bottom of the sump) When welding up the sump, take care to quench the bottom where the line contacts. If you use stainless you don't have to worry about this part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 Ok my tank was shipped two days ago and I won't be able to post pics until next week. My total was $500 which includes shipping to and from and the same work done that DAT240ZG had done plus a sump made. From talking to the guys there and the pic of DAT240ZG's tank I think it will be worth it. There was no way I was going to find a 280z tank......so keepin my fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dat240zg Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 Congrats Clive. I'm interested in seeing what the sump that they make looks like. Bryan Dat240zg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks280zt Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I had a 76 tank in the classifieds, already refurbished and all....maybe i deleted it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I had a 76 tank in the classifieds, already refurbished and all....maybe i deleted it? LoL....could have made you a nice offer with your mirrors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks280zt Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 The mirrors are still in the classifieds, theres an ebay link in the ad now. Look in the body/interior section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgkurz Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Just got my fuel tank back from Moyers (http://www.gas-tank.com) today and it really turned out nice. They did a whole list of things for me including: 1. Welded Brad's 240Z sump, 2. Deleted the factory return and feed lines and subbed an AN fitting, 3. Welded additional baffles inside the tank, 4. Repositioned the drain plug, 5. Reconditioned the tank inside and out. If anyone else is considering getting their tank redone, this is the way to go. $350 for everything and comes with a lifetime warranty against rusting. Jim is the guy to talk with - nice guy and fairly knowledgable about Z's as well. They received the tank and had it back to me within 10 days! Anyways, pics are worth a thousand words so: Now to mount the pump, plumb the lines and get this thing running! Bryan Hi Bryan, Great looking tank! Did you get it installed and working? If so I would enjoy seeing pictures of the plumbing. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teekass Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Just got my fuel tank back from Moyers (http://www.gas-tank.com) today and it really turned out nice. They did a whole list of things for me including: 1. Welded Brad's 240Z sump, 2. Deleted the factory return and feed lines and subbed an AN fitting, 3. Welded additional baffles inside the tank, 4. Repositioned the drain plug, 5. Reconditioned the tank inside and out. If anyone else is considering getting their tank redone, this is the way to go. $350 for everything and comes with a lifetime warranty against rusting. Jim is the guy to talk with - nice guy and fairly knowledgable about Z's as well. They received the tank and had it back to me within 10 days! Anyways, pics are worth a thousand words so: Now to mount the pump, plumb the lines and get this thing running! Bryan Has anyone had this done lately? Was wondering about a current price since this post is 3 years old. Thanks, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma-z Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 I just boxed up my tank and sent it to Moyers to have similar work done. They cannot really give a good quote until you send your tank in since the cost is dependant on how much prep work will be required. I can post the total cost and pics of the completed tank once I get it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teekass Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 I just boxed up my tank and sent it to Moyers to have similar work done. They cannot really give a good quote until you send your tank in since the cost is dependant on how much prep work will be required. I can post the total cost and pics of the completed tank once I get it back. Thanks, I'd appreciate that. I'm trying to decide which way to go. I like the factory look, but worried about the price. The post from 3 years ago said $500.00......that's do-able. I'm just worried how much he's gone up since then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma-z Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I sent in my tank and was given a quote of $450 to have the following modifications made: 1. Add sump with 2 fittings (size -8AN). 2. Remove driver side vent, 3. Remove stock inlet/return lines. 4. Exchange top vent lines with threaded fittings. If you aren't interested in adding a sump I am sure the price would be better. I was able to ship the tank from Texas for $29 using USPS. I should be getting it back soon and I will post some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1miata Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Would these same modifications work for a Z with a sr20det running a separate surge tank. If so what other modifications would be needed to the original tank. Yes I realize this threads years old, but any info would be of great help.thanks in advance hybridz fam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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