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clsatt

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I got my 240z running really well yesterday. decided to take it for a quick spin, it was amazing. I was out for about 5 min, pulled it into the garage...and it died, would't start again. I pulled the plugs to try to diagnose the problem and they were coarted in a fine black soot. I figure the carbs are running rich but I'm not certain.

 

any thughts?

 

I ordered the ztherapy vidio on su tuning, hopefully a good tune up will fix the problem. don't know though.

 

it was great while it lasted.

 

chris

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Guest TeamNissan

Sounds like either timing or the wrong air fuel mix. Those are the main 2 reasons I have come across when dealing with fouled plugs. It can also be caused by the plug running in the wrong heat range, usualy cold. I think tuning the carbs will solve the problem. Hope that helps you and good luck.

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ok, new issue, now it won't start at all, I think the new points I installed may have slipped (I'm crossing my fingers that thats the problem anyway)

 

it seems like it would make sense, install em, don't tighten em enough, they slip after 5 min of hard driving. that would explain why it died so hard when it did die and it would explain, one of the reasons anyway, why the plugs fouled the way that they did...

 

 

I think...

 

anything guys, I'm making excuses now.

 

thanks,

 

chris

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Check the basics first. Make sure you are getting fuel, that your primary wires are still connected to the coil/distributor. Check for spark by pulling the coil wire from the coil and having someone crank it whist you check for spark..

 

 

I had a similar failure years ago and it turned out to be an alternator that shorted out internally which caused the fusible link to burn. I also had intermittent problems with it suddenly dieing on me and it was some wires that had broken internally that powered the coil/dist, it was a quick fix.

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I thought it was the alternator when I bought the car because it wouldn't start up then, but it wound up being the condencer, once it started the alternator charged the batery fine, so I don't think that its that. but once we got it running I replaced the points, still ran fine. did the filters and plugs and the idle was better. got it running prety sweet, a little rich, but it was running. took it for a drive and it died. I checked the plugs and they proved that the mix was too rich and when I looked at the points they were touching. I don't think that they are suposed to touch. my best guess is that I fouled my plugs and my points moved on me, I may not have had them snuged down all the way.

 

on another note, when I tightened the points the vaccume advance slipped off the point where it's suposed to connect, should this be tightened or is it ok if it's a little loose on that point or is that something I need to fix asap?

 

chris

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Convert over to electronic ignition with a Crane XR700 or Petronix system and ditch the points entirely. Hell, have I got a deal for you. I pulled the distributor off my running 240z as I am dropping in a 1983 turbo. The distributor already HAS a Crane XR700 system installed.

 

I can sell you the complete system (optical sensor already installed, ignition box, etc.) for cheap + shipping. Drop me a PM if you are interested.

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Understood. Hybridz may not be the place for many of your inquiries though. You should really check out Classiczcars.com. They cater to purists such as yourself. This site is more geared towards folks who do swaps. I am not saying that you won't find help here, but there is a wealth of information on stock cars over there, I would venture to say even more information than would be found here.

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I've tried the folks there, they're cool, but I like you guys better. and even though I have an appreciation for stock engine components I do like what you all are doing with suspension and breaks. I wouldn't say I'm a purest because at some point I want to build the top end.

 

lets just say I want to build it 70s style hybrid, keeping it with technology that was used when the car was first shipped to us here in the US.

 

chris

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quote:

 

lets just say I want to build it 70s style hybrid, keeping it with technology that was used when the car was first shipped to us here in the US.

 

 

Hi Chris,

 

Not trying to put down your goals for your car, but as a fellow "minimal hybridizer" I urge you to DITCH THOSE POINTS! LOL! You can get them perfectly adjusted and they won't stay that way for long. I have a GM HEI in my '71 and would never go back.

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I just posted yesterday that I WANTED TO KEEP THE POINTS...

your right. I spent 7 hours yesterday trying to get that car to start. points are adjusted, plugs are new and fire some of the time. but I can not for the life of me keep it running. it runs while the starter is running and if I bridge a wire over the resistor it runs for about 3 seconds longer, I don't know if its points, coil, plugs, I have no frickin idea. I'm about to the point where I want to replace the whole damn ignition system for new...

this sucks bad. and I wouldn't be quite so frustrated except that the car ran last weekend.

 

sorry. :(

 

chris

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Not to pick on anybody who posted above but HybridZ people admire and respect a well done stock vehicle. This site is just rather intolerant of people telling others to NOT mod their Z's. You have come to the right place.

 

The fact it runs when the starter is on but not with the starter off makes me think there is a loose or corroded electrical connection. Jumpering a wire over the ballast resistor is a step in the right direction.

 

Try bridging a jumper wire right from the batter directly to the power wire on the coil. That will bypass the whole running ignition circuit. If that works, then it is a matter of tracing the ignition power wires cleaning up each and every connection. At the same timecheck for bad insulation that could be shorting out to ground. Sometimes taking sandpaper to a connection that otherwise looks clean can fix something you didn't realize was broke. Rubbing a little dielectric grease on the cleaned up connection will help keep things clean.

 

Good luck. Hope it isn't your ignition switch. A known weak point in the Z electrical system.

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Pop N Wood, by no means am I slighting Hybridz. I have found through my own experience, though, that the archives here tend to be lacking for addressing stock L24 issues. I am not saying that Hybridz'ers do not appreciate a stock Z, simply that other sites may have more information, as well as members who are more knowledgeable, about the stock 240z.

 

Hell, I a member of the three big'uns (Zcar.com, Classiczcars.com and Hybridz.org) and I routinely search all three places for my information.

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I found the problem and it really wasn't what I had expected. the fuel wasn't getting to the carbs. after I had tried just about everything I decided to check the fuel once more. I pulled the line off of one of the carbs and cranked it...nothing. I was worried about the state of the tank when I bought it but I didn't expect it to be in bad enough condition that it would block up the screen. I'm taking it to a radiator shop in the morning to have it boiled and recoated they quoted me about $45 for the job. certainly cheaper than replacing the dizzy. I'll do it eventually.

 

on that point, anyone know of one that looks close to stock; black cap, vac advance, uses a standard coil. I guess I could upgrade without feeling guilty if I keep the old parts in boxes and it still "looks" stock.

 

thanks guys,

chris

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look at the 79-83 zx distributors. they look almost identical to the stock unit except the ignition module which is on the distributor, but that too can be relocated to somewhere else on the vehicle for a more stock look. I would not bother though. Then you also must put a resistor inline with the stock tack to get a consistant signal. I am running that setup now on my 240z, and have been very pleased with it for the last 12 or so years it's been on the car. It's nice as it does not get out of time, and never needs the points adjusted.

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CLSATT,

 

Before reinstalling the tank,you may want to blow out the lines to and from the tank with compressed air.

 

Then if your car was equipped with an electric boost pump near the tank,

pull it out and open it up.

 

Inside these pumps is a filter that usually needs to be cleaned or replaced.

 

Mine was filthy, totally full of rusty crap.

 

Check it out.

 

Oh yeah, Ditch the points and don't ever look back.You won't regret it!

 

Mike.

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