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question or two. new engine/tranny


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first question is.. can anyone suggest where to start my timing out at on 383 stroker SBC. stock heads w/2.02 intake 1.6 exhuast valves. keith black flattop pistons.. i believe its around 9.?.1 compression... 2nd question HOW do you hear when the engine is detonating with open headers? i hear what sounds a little like a tick or slap sound every couple seconds.. sounds like possible detonation... 3rd question i have a 180* thermostat and the engine (while breaking in) runs constant around 200* then drops down to maybe 185* and heats right back up is that normal for a 180* thermo?... 4th question if i put 8 quarts of fluid in a 700r4 rebuilt w/a new converter do i have to shift through the gears to get the fluid into the converter? for some reason the fluid ran up out of the stick... i DIDNT shift through gears though.. is that possibly why? thanks for any help in advance.. sorry so many questions

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1) Timing, I would start out at 34 degrees.

2) You are probably hearing the valve trian, rocker arms. Detonation usually occurs when a load in put on the engine.

3) If your temp goes to 200 then 185 at least it is cooling, yes that is normal. It means when the temp hits 180 the thermostat opens and alows water to flow to the radiator to be cooled. Then it closes so cooling can happen etc. I can't reccomend a thermostat degree, do not know enough about your cooling system.

4) Not sure about the 700r4 / transmission fluid.

 

Hope this helps some...

 

John

 

 

first question is.. can anyone suggest where to start my timing out at on 383 stroker SBC. stock heads w/2.02 intake 1.6 exhuast valves. keith black flattop pistons.. i believe its around 9.?.1 compression... 2nd question HOW do you hear when the engine is detonating with open headers? i hear what sounds a little like a tick or slap sound every couple seconds.. sounds like possible detonation... 3rd question i have a 180* thermostat and the engine (while breaking in) runs constant around 200* then drops down to maybe 185* and heats right back up is that normal for a 180* thermo?... 4th question if i put 8 quarts of fluid in a 700r4 rebuilt w/a new converter do i have to shift through the gears to get the fluid into the converter? for some reason the fluid ran up out of the stick... i DIDNT shift through gears though.. is that possibly why? thanks for any help in advance.. sorry so many questions
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Shannan,

 

I just put my 4l80e back in the hot rod and I usually put 4 quarts in a dry transmission/torque converter and fire it up, run it through the gears, let it idle and check the fluid. It is usually not on the stick, I put 2 more quarts in and run it through the gears, check it again, usually on the bottom of the stick, I put 2 more quarts in, run it through the gears and check it...it is usually right on full. If you didn't start out with a totally dry transmission, the you have too much fluid in. Drain about 4 quarts out, run it through the gears and see where you are. If still too much, take some out, if not enough, add some. I found my 700r4's to be very similar in capacity to the 4l80e. Let us know how you come out.

 

Wayne

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thanks for that info wayne! thats my problem... i didnt shift through the gears... going to pickup a shifter monday and a new throttle cable assembly. by the way.. changed the distributor out because of the crack i told you about.. runs about the same i guess. but still it would have led to problems. i got the timing tape like you suggested, going to go see tyler tomorrow see if they have a timing light they can loan out.. dont know if they do that at that auto store or not. but thanks for your help! im getting pretty close to getting it. couldnt have done it without your help, and help from alot of other people on this board.

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If you run a too low of a thermostat like the 160, it will remain open and will not allow the water to stay in the radiator, so it will not cool. I think you are better off with the 185 thermostat, al least it is cooling. You might want to try a 190. This will let the water stay longer in the radiator to cool. I hope you understand what I am trying to tell you.

 

John

 

thanks for the info. think maybe i should go down to a 160* thermostat? im running the JTR radiator. anyone with the jtr and a similar setup know what their temp runs avg?
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ohhh ok i see.... the thermostat is a 195 i pulled it out to check it.. so the higher it is (to a certain point) the longer the coolant gets cooled.. i understand now. could also be staying around 200 because the car isnt moving... that would have alot to do with it also.. i have a taurus (1993) fan wired on high speed soon as the car is started. what is the range you have to start worrying about the temp?

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ahhhhh i think now my fuel pump is going out... lol its not really building up any pressure... when i do get it to build up enough that i can hit the throttle and shoot some gas into the carb it fires right up.. runs a few seconds then dies... i hit the throttle and no gas goes into the carb... for some reason it isnt pumping like it should.. we discussed that before wayne... i believe i'm going to try another pump see if that works... im so dang tempted to just get a holley fuel pump that is made for a carb and get rid of that fuel pressure regulator....

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Hey Shannan, I've got an idea!!! Why don't you get a Holley fuel pump made for a carb and save all the headaches??? :o) Just raggin' you, my friend....however, I DO recommend that you spring for a Holley Red pump...it is preset at 7 psi and works great for its intended use. Before I went FI, I had a 1050 on the hotrod. I used the Holley Red and never had a problem...before you ask, yes, I looked for it and don't know what I did with it when I took it off. Sorry, old people ya know.

 

Wayne

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