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Do I really need a roll cage and sub frame connectors??


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I am not really trying to cut corners here but do I really need a roll cage in my 73? I was planning on putting some sort of sub frame connectors but was not thinking about a roll cage. I will be running close to 400HP through a 700r4. I do not want to twist the body up too bad. Would the sub frame be enough?

I understand that I will get a lot of replies asking if the cost of a roll cage is worth my life or safety. The cars didnt come factory with a roll cage and I really dont see that many people with stock Zs putting in a roll cage. I would plan to put one in down the road but was hoping the connectors would be enough for now.

If I do need a cage, do you think a cage would be enough without the connectors?

 

Please forgive my ignorance!

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I don't think that the sub frames alone will stop the unibody flexing, esp. with that kinda HP. My advise is that if you are going to drive it hard, and ESP. if you plan to do it eventually....do it NOW!

Tim

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Guest Anonymous

As Scottie said its a choice. I want to stiffen things up a bit so I'll add one myself, but thats only because I'm already seeing some cracking of the lead joint on the roof panel above the rear wheel area. I'm only running about 260hp stock 350 (well it does have over 300 ft/lbs of torque) and the twisting is pretty obvious driving it hard.

 

If the subframes fix that for you, great, the safety issue is your call, frankly if it gets hit hard, cage or no theres going to be some injuries I can almost say that with complete certainty, pipe bends triagulated or not. In a rollover accident, I'm of course rather be in a caged car.

 

I'm not crazy about the side bars, I know they help tie in the front subframe (or can be made to anyway) but they sure seem in the way, on alot of cars it looks like it would be hard to even get to the door handle.

 

Thats why I had asked before about a triangulated bent side bar so you could get in and out easier. We'll see when I get that far and put a cage in if I'm able to pull it off. Good luck.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Do you guys think a good triangulated front and rear strut support would help along with sub frame connectors? I would really like to get around putting in a cage. Im a pretty tall guy, 6'3" 220lbs. I am worried about making a really safe car with no flex that I will not enjoy driving! Also, I would really like to keep the sleeper look if I can.

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Well I might as well chime in here.. I did the roll cage thing for two reasons.. safety..(my car is far more capable for speed and handling than stock) and two.. I had the resources available to me at the time.

 

I have a 12 point roll cage without sidebars, with another 14 points of bracing... The bracing is mostly adjustable with heim joints, and is all triagulated. I can't really count that as "roll cage", but it does give the car significant chassis stiffening as well as extra crash worthiness. It was all built by a pro with many years experience with z race cars. I push my car to its limits on a track, as well as close to 300rwhp launches at the odd stoplight.. NO twisting....I can even jack 3 wheels off the ground, and still open and close my doors..not bad for a 24yr old car..

 

I left my side bars off in my situation..I still have them so one day I can put them on, but I felt it was just too much for a street car...The ladies so far, don't mind the 4 point harness I make them wear..(no I don't force them to wear the antisubmarine belt..hehehe) but I'm pretty sure they would not like climbing over a metal bar in a dress.. but hey that is my personal opinion.

 

The bracing up front might interest you though. I have bracing from the firewall to the strut towers, then a giant X going from the strut towers to the opposite rad support. I also have a top and bottom rad support brace.. the top is joined into the X on top.. the lower is tied to the fram rails.

 

http://zacksz.homestead.com/projectboost.html

 

This a site with some pics of my engine bay that show the x bracing etc..not all my pics are up..there are a couple..more will follow in coming weeks..

 

I have other pics of my roll cage, and assosiated bracing as well If you need it.

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Guest Anonymous

Utvolman99,

 

Nah, no subconnectors, its stock sheetmetal. It does show how flexible the car is though. My friend Mark (Zdreamer) pointed the cracks out to me, I guess many of them do it even stock, the deal is they were'nt there when I bought it because I remember washing that spot and it wasn't cracked. I can only assume it didn't take the V8 torque long to flex its muscle (and the body) enough to start showing cracks. I'll be going at least 8 point, but then again I want to put in a 9" ford rear with 4 link at some juncture, purely for the street you understand, well most of the time ;) .

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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We were yaking about backbone chassis and so forth a while back. Look for some chassis photos of a tvr. the have most of there structural strenght in the tunnel area. I have designed one for my 2+2 that I will start on the the moment takes me weird.gif

 

Douglas

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these cars werent built to take more than 200hp and ft lbs. cmon now, you have to have some type of rollbar/cage in your ride, the girls man the girls! besides that, it just make sense to reinforce something you plan to drive the snot out of, and please dont lie to yourself and say "ill be nice, i wont dog it" man youre gonna dog the crap out of it, and love it! i would say subframes may be enough to stop the frame from flexing, but a good cage thats tied into those subframes makes you a true hot rod-

one that likes those ridiculous speeds that these cars are capable of once fully equipped.

and of course, none of us wants to see whether or not that reinforcement will hold up in case of something dramatic, but youll be hurtin for certain without it. hey i have those cracks on the roofs too, them is my power cracks!! b_hand.gif

four speed

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I went for the cage just for The NHRA. I also plan on living a long life even if I get hit!! as for you being a big guy I stand 6 foot and about 255 lbs and I fit nicly I also have swing out door bars so the wife doesnt complain about getting into the car. just my .02 cents Keith

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Try this - take the driver's side door panel off and peek inside. See anything? I didn't think so :eek:

 

I gutted a 72 door and when everything is pulled you can pick it up with one hand, smack it, and I swear it damn near rings like a gong! There's little to no reinforcement in the doors. The way folks run redlights around here a T-Bone accident would damn near be certain death :( I've gto welded in side bars. Yes, it's a royal PITA but it's not a daily driver. Passenger and driver have 4 point belts and I'll be adding in the 5th as soon as I've got time to do so. These cars are light and if someone tried to make one today they would be crucified by the safety folks! Why chance it? weird.gif

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