hawaiiz Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 Aloha All - Sorry to post so often but Im on a spending roll since the Z will be on the jack stands for a couple weeks I getting it all togather. Ive decieded to go with this conversion setup unless anyone has better ideas. Bracket - 80-83 Rear Brake Caliper Adapter Bracket #44155-04S10 - $125 Calipers - 82-83 200sx Loaded - $120 Rotors - 83 280ZX rotors 10.25 - $42 Does anyone have this exact setup??? PS Local yard says he has the brackets and theres an abandon 200sx down the road for the cores. And thanks Again. Hawaiiz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 do the 200sx calipers have a adjustable or removable e-brake arm?! Mine have fixed arms and hit my brakes lines and severed them in half Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 Just go with the Modern Motorsports rear brackets (www.modern-motorsports.com). They have a much better parking brake orientation and you can run the bigger Z31 rear rotors. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawaiiz Posted May 21, 2007 Author Share Posted May 21, 2007 Well the junkyard guy in town wanted too much for the brackets plus I would have to pullem my self and the car is in a nasty location so I just orderd new brackets from Coursty Nissan, $115 shipped for both. I got permission to pull the calipers from the 200sx down the road and will do a test fit with them first, if all looks good Ill usem as cores for some loaded rebuilts. Im going into town today to dump the shell of one of my parts cars today and pickup the ZX rotors, a gallon herkuliner kit and some por-15 or equivant if I can find some. I will post pics of the Brake conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 correct me if im wrong but your buying factory brackets? if you are, i dont think its a bolt on swap, you might have to machine the caliper brackets to a certain mm to make it fit right, and bore out the center whole.no easy job unless your have a machine shop handy...for 115.00 brackets, you could of bought the premade brackets for the rear disc conversion for 160.00 i think it was from modernmotorsports... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawaiiz Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 Aloha and Yes they are the factory 82 Maxima bolt on brackets - brand new, he says there are 5 sets in LA. My research ive accumulated over the last few months has led me to belive this setup to be a good one. Am I missing something major?? The 81 to 83 Bolt On Rear Caliper brackets should fit right on without modification. I also have the new wheel bearings, seals and ujoints, Blue springs and older Tokito struts to install so 4 bolts are right in my schedule. Plus the prep and paint everything. I could not find por-15 or Herculiner after checking multiple locations. I eneded up with Jasco Rust convertor and ordered herculiner from ACE, manager said will start stocking it from now on. Also bought all kinds of more paints, primers, and all that stuff that it takes to clean apply and cleanup. Im gonna test this Jasco stuff on other items (tractor etc) and see how it works. I need to post for advice in the autobody forums and learn more. Ill let you all know how it goes. Peace HawaiiZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Bracket - 80-83 Rear Brake Caliper Adapter Bracket #44155-04S10 - $125 Calipers - 82-83 200sx Loaded - $120 Rotors - 83 280ZX rotors 10.25 - $42 Does anyone have this exact setup??? Yes, I do (well, I used to ): http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=578333#post578333 I have since "upgraded" the 280ZX rear rotor to a modified 1984 Z31 rear rotor: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=578445#post578445 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawaiiz Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 Zcarnut - Excellent - I thought this would work. Why did you want larger rotors???? Was the smaller rotors OK?? Did you need an adjustable porportioning valve?? If not how was your Bias??? I have the Toy 4 piston front on new stock rotors and am doing the setup above in back, any other thoughs??? Thanks HawaiiZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 I have the toyota 4x4 w/84 300zx vented rotors up front and 240sx calipers w/300zx solid rotors in the rear. Even with the prop valve opened all the way there is still too much front brake. While it's safer that way, I suspect that I'm leaving some braking performance on the table. If I was to do it again, I'd go with the S12+8 calipers which have a slightly smaller 2nd piston to give a little less front brake bias, and then tune it out with the prop valve. I believe this caliper weights a little less as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Why did you want larger rotors???? Larger [diameter] rotors increase brake torque by increasing the distance from the wheel centerline to the pads. This effect also improves the operation of the parking brake. A larger rotor also has more surface area to better dissipate heat. And another feature is that the larger rotor will allow for more axle-to-caliper clearance when I change over to CV axles. Was the smaller rotors OK?? Yes they were. I just can’t leave anything alone Did you need an adjustable proportioning valve?? If not how was your Bias??? I’m presently using a 280ZX one that I have modified. It could use some more “tweaking†as the bias is still very slightly towards the rear. I’m investigating using a Z32 master cylinder which has a built-in proportioning valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 like I said be careful with those 200sx calipers.. that have the fixed e-brake arm. They will hit the brake line where the rubber/stainless meets the solid brake line. I would cut off the arm honestly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawaiiz Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 Thanks Guys - I just might get lucky and it will all work out fine With the and the 200sx calipers - We will see Oh another question - Im gonna try those bleaders with the check valve in them, about 5 bucks apeice - anyone try them yet??? Also will change to braided lines - Any reccomendations?? The reason Im chaging my brakes Fronts squeeled like crazy but stopped ok and for $100 bolt in I thought cool. Rears - Since Im ripping it all apart anyways nows the time - plus much easier mainteance and parts availablility. Not really in for performance yet - Although we do have a new race park coming - I hope and cross my fingers. Peace Out - KjHawaii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 I've used the speedbleeders for a while now. Makes bleeding by yourself easier. But unless you are bleeding quite often (such as before track days), you'll be fine with the stock valves. Given you have everything apart right now, probably not a bad idea to put them in. It will never be easier (or cleaner). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawaiiz Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 "like I said be careful with those 200sx calipers.. that have the fixed e-brake arm. They will hit the brake line where the rubber/stainless meets the solid brake line. I would cut off the arm honestly" Can you elaberate on this issue because I was under the impression that the 200zx was suppose to have one of the best angles for the brake cables?? Any Pics?? Thanks HawaiiZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 ok, the whole time were talking about front brakes..i thought it was rears.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Notice the arm sticking out that looks like it is about to hit the strut bar?! Well look directly above it.. When the suspension compresses.. the arm hits the bottom of the brake line where it attaches to the metal brake bracket and hard line. I severed a set of used brake lines that came with the calipers.. and a brand new set because I never noticed it. This is with compression on a hard turn even.. or going over a curb into the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawaiiz Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Ok I see it in this pic a little better At this angle it almost looks like the e-brake arm will almost contact the swaybar.. So how about this.... If i move the mounting bracket for the hardline to rubber hose it would be OK?? And if so - its bolt on besides the relocation of the "mounting bracket" Also ive read the parking brake cables are very compatible/near stock with this setup?? 3rdly and this is the big question Will this be the optimimum street setup considering Price of system total Ease or replacement parts IE - Note parts in the owners manual and whenthey need replacing just Ask for this that part and turn in cores. No rotor mods, caliper parts swaps etc. Am I missing anything here? Thanks for all the input. HawaiiZ Edit - Now been looking at 82zx calipers - what to buy?? I just want someone to tell me if I get this here are the potential problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 I had the same interference issue using 240sx calipers. I chose to cut the brackets off and mount them in the arch area just aft of the strut. I looped the brake hard line around and it naturally landed up there. The SS brake line fit nicely as well. Sorry, don't have any pictures right now, but if you experiment a little, I'm sure you'll figure out a location that fits. As for your other questions about the optimum street setup, I can't answer your question - I went with 240sx calipers. In my case, it's easy to replace parts: rotors from 84 NA 300zx, pads from 93 240sx - both of which have a good selection of performance versions available. I imagine you'll be able to make a similar list depending on which calipers/rotors you choose. Side note: I think it's important to do a check of what types of pads are available before choosing any new calipers. For example, the non-vented toyota 4x4 do offer several "heavy duty" type pads, but no real performance (aka "track") materials. One nice thing about the later toyota vented rotors is that you can use a pad from a 92 NA 300zx (you just have to cut off a tab). As the 300zx is a more performance-oriented vehicle, there are better choices for pads, such as HAWK HP+, which aren't available for truck. I haven't checked, but imagine that might be the same for 200sx vs. 240sx. Lastly, yes, the e-brake is very close to the sway bar, but as they are both attached to the strut, they move together and don't touch - just barely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 im not too sure but am i lost??? are you guys just buying the maxima brackets and boting them in without any mods and it works? i have a complete setup in the garage but if i tried to see if itll fit, ill have to cut off my ,backplate meaning loosing wheel cylinders forever. thats why i didnt want to test fit them if i have to machine it but it looks like you guys just bolting them in. am i missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Regardless of which brackets you use, you have to remove the drum brake backing plates. While you could remove the axle stubs and remove the plate in one piece, that is NOT a fun job. Since there's no market for the plates anyway, most people just cut them off and bolt the bracket on. Of course, the bracket has to be "3 sided" in order to fit without removing the stub. There are some brackets with 4 bolts and, again, you would have to remove the stub. You might want to pull one of your drums off to help get a better picture in your mind. Here are 2 pictures of the finished brakes using the Modern Motorsports brackets and 240sx calipers w/300zx rotors. You seem to be concerned with saving the wheel cylinders to maybe reinstall some day? I think once you finish this job, there is no way you are going to want to go back to drums. It's a lot of work, quite a dirty job, and the results are excellent on the track. Why would you want to go back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.