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HybridZ

Dudeboys LS1/4l60E Hybrid


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Wow man car looks great. I love those side pipes, can't wait to hear them! 6 years though, holy man I am only on year 1 and am dying to get a swap done myself lol. Seems just when you think your closer you remember something else or want to add something else ;)

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RB240zDET, I really need some more eyes and and some extra hands to make sure I am not missing something. I want to invite any of local guys out to Hiram as soon as I get my school schedule and I can BBQ and plan something out. destruck, Thanks --By the way, I am from San Diego !!! Spring Valley-Mount Miguel Matador !!! I did not realize it when I started that it would take so long --I am keeping in mind this is a hobby, and one of those things middle age man do as part of the bucket life.

 

I got all the rear studs in, and confusion on my part as far as the disc brakes and Edan at Silvermine Motors got me straightened out. So, I will have a discussion with the wife and kids see if I can work on the car after work this week. I couple guys on the forum posted the ARP 7708 12-1.50 wheel studs as option for longer studs and I purchased some. Tools for stud install- 1. 2 ft x 1 inch steel pipe, 19 mm deep socket, pack of steel washers (12 so you can stack them) , I bought 4 -12 x1.50 RH wheel nuts from Autozone, anti-sieze for the studs, liquid wrench- Breaker bar and/or ratchet both will slide into the pipe for more leverage and a crowbar to keep the stub from turning. If you have the stubs axles out and access to a press it would be easier, but if you do not I talk to a mechanic buddy of mine and he has a stud spacer bearing that works like the washers and saves labor time and an expensive repair bill for replacing broken wheel studs.

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  • 6 months later...

Good evening all,

 

 

It is good to see guys completing cars, new projects being started and a few making changes. I am still at it, at a snails pace, but squeeze garage time as the schedule permits. But, I have installed the Silvermine brakes, Wolfcreek CV axles, brakes are bled and carpet back in. Next, add anti-freeze, re-test electric, buy battery and tires and install ZG flares. When I get close to installing the ZG flares, any Hybridz Georgians who have installed them, please come on out to Hiram and give me some instruction. I have a small MIg welder and the supplies to get it done, and I will pick up some seam sealer and body shop supplies. Food, beverages and pay for your gas !!!!

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Edited by Dudeboy
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  • 8 months later...

Progress,

 

Interiors done- I need to re-inspect dash wiring. I purchased Nitto NT05 tires, 315/35-17 and 255/40-17. Put wheels on and removed jackstands, and it has been 6 years since the car was on the ground !!!! I put the BAMF ZG Flares on measured and blue taped about 50 times until it was just right. Sunday, will be cutting and drilling. Next, get a battery, anti-freeze, fuel and INSURANCE. I have a quote from Hagerty insurance that will be in place before I go down the driveway. I have checked out some local painters and few in other parts of the city, and I will cross that bridge once I get it up and running. 

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Edited by Dudeboy
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Looks great ! You have a lot more patience on your project than most . Don't think i can wait that long . I'm still working mine but it runs and dirves . Just finished the swap  not long ago , took me about 6 weekends to get it on the street . Suspension is next on the list and then paint . My goal was to get the car running so i can enjoy it while working on other areas . Great job !

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Thank you Joe,

 

I was on a roll and life took me away from the garage !!! Installed the BAMF ZG flares the last two nights after work. I will start from the front of the car and go back and start tightening and make sure I did not miss a wire  or bolt --GETTING CLOSE !!!!

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Over the last 2 weeks I have been extending and re-shaping the BAMF ZG flares. I knew the offset would be tight without coilovers and as you see with 17-11 wheels and 315-35/17  NT05 tires stick out past the flares. I used Tap Plastic foam, Fiberglass mat and cloth, Tiger Hair reinforced filler and Evercoat lightweight filler. Tomorrow, I will be sanding and spot glazing/putty to good enough condition for the body shop. I  was able to build the flares up and extending out about 2.75 inches - a lot a work for a few inches !

 

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Edited by Dudeboy
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It was a bit of work for a few inches but it was worth it. Next year I will look at coilovers and I have a lot more room to lower the height.

For now, get it running, painted and enjoy driving.

 

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  • 6 months later...

Made a bit of progress and moved the Z from my Dad’s garage to my garage.  I had already gone through with re-torqueing bolts and checking for leaks. I knew the electric would be the area I would need patience with. So with a power probe I checked all grounds and then all hot wires and everything was good.  But, NO START!!!  I do not have a key ignition (key is just there to lock steering wheel). I have a race car panel with toggles and a push-button start, and looking at diagrams for wiring a LS1 with toggle switches, separate fuse panel and a battery disconnect, I have an idea where I made a mistake. Two days after this photo I had hernia surgery, so I want be working on the car for a few weeks –but I can’t wait to get back on the Z.

 

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Edited by Dudeboy
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Looking good, Glenn!

 

First thing to make sure of on the initial start is that the ECU is staying on when cranking. Most circuits will shut down while cranking which causes the ECU to shut down unless you picked a hot source that is not effected during cranking. Easiest thing to check for is to make sure the ECU light does not go out when you try to crank her over.

 

Joe

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Hey Joe, Thank you,

 

I don't remember the sequence of the light coming off or on. But, I have the ignition toggle and push button start and I have some circuits have to take off the ignition toggle and put on accessory toggle switches. I should have connected my pink wire from ECM to the push button start alone as well. The one thing I am not sure about is- What do I do with the coil wire that is in the main fuse panel ? I wired a 66 Ford Galaxie and it was butter ! I had electric gremlins before the swap, I have no regret upgrading I just have to figure this out and I will watch the light as a measure of what is working. I will be physically up and running in a couple days, and a couple hot rod buddies are helping me. I will post my mistakes and fixes ! Thanks again.

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Disepyon,

 

The alternator/bracket is a alternator only bracket kit from Street and Performance (http://www.hotrodlane.cc).

Yes, as a afterthought I would make changes- but then I get into the what if ! And while I am at it change this or that. In the future I may put A Ls1 Carburetor kit and a TKO 5 speed in the Z if the opportunity is presented. For now get the Z running, fix any bugs and painted.

Edited by Dudeboy
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Looks good, what alternator bracket you using?

 

Also on your fuel rail, cant you just rotate the fuel rail so you dont have to run all that fuel line? I believe others done that.

 

Yes,you can flip the fuel rail 180 degrees without fitment issues (see photo below).

 

The car is looking good.  I saw you are installing the Wolf Creek kit......I did not realize that was another option for us and am now drooling over their website.

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Edited by ktm
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KTM,

 

Going on 6 yrs there are so many things I would change! I do like the neatness of the fuel line / rail in the photo. The Wolf Creek CV axles was a smooth purchase and installation process. Will see how it handles a mild build LS1.

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