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NO2 how much


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My no2 direct port intake has taken another turn.

 

After breaking one of the nozzles off in the intake I sent off one no2 and one fuel nozzel to a nitrous parts supplier in California for measurement and a new part.

 

Well FridayI got a call from them (nitrous supplier) and Mike told me that according to what I sent him the nozzles will produce a 300 HP "shot" of nitrous. I feel 300 additional HP might be a little bit too much for me (If not I can switch jets later for more umph)

 

So for those who run nitrous how big of a shot are yhoiu running and is it on the street or track? Mine will primarily a street driven car with a forged bottom end (crank, H-beam rods, forged pistons) mechanical roller valve train, holley TBI EFI.

 

Thanks,

David

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whether the motor would take it or not your gonna break stuff, but if you dont break stuff it would be good for some 80 mph sideways burnouts on the freeway. I run a 150 shot at the track with my vega and but on the streets with street tires in third gear the car will go sideways when the system in activated. Would make for some good videos though if somone was riding behind you lol.

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A 300 shot is one hell of a first time "shot". Typically you work up to that. You need to pull about 8 degrees of timing for starters IMO before jumping in to that game. Unless your running NOS pistons they typically are designed for a 250 shot. I'd check with your piston manufacturer before turning on the spray.

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A 300 shot is one hell of a first time "shot". Typically you work up to that. You need to pull about 8 degrees of timing for starters IMO before jumping in to that game. Unless your running NOS pistons they typically are designed for a 250 shot. I'd check with your piston manufacturer before turning on the spray.

 

When you say pull out 8 degrees before jumping into "that game", are you talking about a 300 shot or just starting out with nitrous?

 

And, "unless you're running NOS pistons they typically are designed for a 250 shot", are you saying nitrous pistons are designed for a 250 shot or are you talking about forged pistons in general?

 

(please don't ban me)

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More details? Heads, cam, compression?

 

TFS (Trick Flow not twisted wedge or kenny dutweiler sp) 30400002 62cc chamber, 195cc runner

 

Cam Comp cams 12-769-8 mechanical roller

Duration at .05

Intake exhaust

230 236

 

lobe seperation 110

 

Duration at .015

Intake Exhaust

268 274

Gross valve lift

Intake Exhaust

.552 .564

 

Compression will be between 10:1 and 10.5:1

 

What I'm looking for is what is a good "shot" for a street driven car? I'm not wanting to run a 300 shot, to me that seems excessive. Car will have more tire under it when it's completed too. 10" wide wheel with 255-275 rubber on the rear. I'm leaning toward a 150 "shot" opinions, thoughts?

 

Thanks,

David

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IM running a all forged 383 with 11:1 cpr and this cam

(notice its similar to yours in durration and lift)

 

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5

 

a highly modified & extensively ported stealthram and a 250hp max nitrious system currently, but jetted for 200hp

 

id start at 75 hp and get that tunned correctly then bump up in no more than 50hp steps at a time, changing the jets and timing and getting everything correct before advancing at each step.

youll learn more and be far less likely to melt parts, or bust drive train components, keep in mind you could have in excess of 700 ft lbs of tq instantly hitting the drive train and parts fail rapidly and your driving and tunning skills better be adapted to those levels slowly in stages, and keep inspecting your oil level and things like u-joints and spark plug color and condition after each change

 

btw this may help

 

 

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html

 

http://www.elektro.com/~audi/audi/toluene.html

 

http://www.team.net/sol/tech/octane_b.html

 

read thru these

 

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/49752/

 

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/editpost.php?pid/1174022/

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Forged pistons in general will handle a 250 shot max. Manufacturers like Lunati, JE, Jade and others state such. NOS pistons have thicker piston crowns, beefier pin bosses and stronger wrist pins and are designed for more abuse by lowering the ring lands as well.

 

Retarding timing with nos as a rule of thumb is about 2 degrees for each 100HP. Again that is a rule of thumb. But to be safe, I'd start with 8 degrees out and then slowly work that up, even starting with 100 shot as different combustion chambers and piston dome configurations will react differently under NOS conditions. That coupled with different heat ranges of plugs can have disasterous effects unless you pull out alot of timing. NOS isn't some magical mystery spray that just "works". I've seen alot of carnage by not being cautious. Personally I don't like the NOS components, they tend to fail and cause major engine damage.

 

11:1 is the ideal NOS compression, but then again how you achieve the 11:1 compression makes all the difference. Large domes don't work as good with nos as do flat top or dished pistons IMO.

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As I said earlier I do not plan on running a 300-250 or 200 shot of nitrous, I'm not trying to go deep in the 10's at the track, not running slicks. I believe my question has been answered in a round about way.

 

Granted it would be nice to start out with a 75 shot and work my way up from there but the issue is two fold. The NO2 injection system is UNDER the intake which means pulling the intake and distributor each time I want to change jets, and the jets cost would be $48- $60 + gaskets each time I swapped them out, that becomes pricy after a while (based on $3.00-$3.75/jet).

 

I think I'll start with a 100HP shot and work my way up from there since that's the amount of power I was planning on going with when I was going to do a carb/plate set up, then along came this damn intake...

 

Where can I get jets that are more affordable?

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Never mind the motor what are you running for a rear end setup

i run run dual stage 150/210 NOS with 235/50 15 ET streets and it

spins the tires at the track. buy lots of u joints you're going to need them

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Rearend set up is a LSD with CV axle conversion.

 

Zthis, what is your set up? Engine, tranny, rearend, tires?

 

I went with the 100HP "shot" now on to bigger and better things, thanks for the info guys!!!

 

d

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Rearend set up is a LSD with CV axle conversion.

 

Zthis, what is your set up? Engine, tranny, rearend, tires?

 

I went with the 100HP "shot" now on to bigger and better things, thanks for the info guys!!!

 

d

 

350,350, 3.90 gears stock side axles 235/60/15 ET streets

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