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$50 DIY paint job


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Guest 73LT1Z
Hate to bring up an really really old thread, but I need to know what type of Rustoleum to buy.

 

Regular- oil based, they sell it at Lowes/Home Depot in basic colors like red and black. I had to order the Sunburst Yellow for my 280Z online.

 

My Fquick page has pics of my Supra coats 1 through 6-7, and I am adding pics of the Z as I get more paint on it (currently up to 4).

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I used every thing from 400 to 1500 at the end before my final coat. I would maybe do it again but i would spray the paint on. Like spray 2 good coats and sand and then do maybe 3 more good coats and then wet sand and buff.

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The problem with the roller method, while being extremely cheap, is that it takes a loooooong time to get a good result. You're talking about putting down 2-3 coats, then wet sanding the entire car, 2-3 coats, wetsand at higher grit, 2-3 coats, wetsand at even higher grit, etc. Multiply that by however many times it takes to get your desired effect and you'll understand Jeff's dismay. Your results can be fantastic, but you're going to be putting in a LOT of time. When I did mine, it turned out great, but it took me more than a month to finish the project (would come home and do 1 step every night after work). Sure, you can do it faster, but it may show...

People will always say "why not get a compressor and a gun" and I say sure that is a great investment IF you have room to store it and all the extra stuff.

The Rustoleum stuff is supposed to be pretty tough and once it is cured should be able to be polished, waxed, etc. just like a normal paint job. I didn't own my test mule long enough to see how the paint lasted long-term.

 

For anybody not able to put the amount of time in and not interested in the compressor route, I would highly encourage them to research the Dupont Nason spray cans. It's like a rattlecan job, except it is professional auto paint with hardeners, capable of being tinted to any color you want (might be tough to do for Rustoleum jobs) and clearcoated if you desire. I haven't done it yet, but this is what I'll be doing on my next auto-paint project...

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Regular- oil based, they sell it at Lowes/Home Depot in basic colors like red and black. I had to order the Sunburst Yellow for my 280Z online.

 

My Fquick page has pics of my Supra coats 1 through 6-7, and I am adding pics of the Z as I get more paint on it (currently up to 4).

 

thanks. Thats all I needed.

 

Wasn't expecting this this many responses. I just wanted to know enamel or acrylic.

 

I'll just paint mine black for now, when I have everything ready. I can always paint it a different color later.

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  • 1 month later...

i know it's an old thread.

just giving my inputs.

 

i use:

DSC00894.jpg

 

DSC00895.jpg

 

DSC00896.jpg

 

DSC00897.jpg

 

day one:

DSC00905.jpg

 

day 2:

DSC00914.jpg

 

day 3:

DSC00920.jpg

 

DSC00921.jpg

 

day 4:

DSC00954.jpg

 

DSC00961.jpg

 

day 5 and 6:

hand buff once. imagine buffing it 3-4 times or with an electric buffer!

DSC00982.jpg

 

DSC00981.jpg

 

i use this to buff

DSC00984.jpg

 

 

in no details.

anyone want to know detail, just ask.

pics shows no justice.

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May i ask what grits

and btw great looking job !

 

 

can't remember exactly but it's the finer grits, probably 400 and up

regular lowe's sandpaper. you should work your way up to 1000 grit.

 

that was just a sample i did on an old datsun 510 trunk.

 

thanks guys... i'm starting that paint job soon and will do a write up along with pics.

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So... you just put it on bare metal? Does it not work well to go over some rattle can primer or rattle can paint? Only saying this because if you get the whole car down to bare metal you have to be fast, especially if you live in humid areas. Surface rust appears like within a week... Other than that my only questions are

1: the mineral spirits is to clean the surface or to thin the paint. Enamel may be a little rough for a spray gun...Lacquer thinner maybe?

2: Any sort of system for clear coats to protect it a little bit?

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Mineral spirits is to thin the paint. you can thin the paint out enough to use it in a spray gun with excellent results too. For wetsanding, I'm a psycho and with things like this, I'd probably keep going PAST 1000 and go up to 2000 (I lap cpu IHS's, and go all the way up to COMPUTER PAPER as the final buffing/sanding)

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So... you just put it on bare metal? Does it not work well to go over some rattle can primer or rattle can paint? Only saying this because if you get the whole car down to bare metal you have to be fast, especially if you live in humid areas. Surface rust appears like within a week... Other than that my only questions are

1: the mineral spirits is to clean the surface or to thin the paint. Enamel may be a little rough for a spray gun...Lacquer thinner maybe?

2: Any sort of system for clear coats to protect it a little bit?

 

 

RUSToleaum says it all... it's made for rust.

this is just a cheap way for those short on budget or should i say "poor man's paint" :lol:

 

yes, thin it out with mineral spirits to almost "water" liquid. it can go over anything.. even painted stuff. just keep adding (rolling) more paint (then let dry, of course) until you can't see whats under it.

 

i've heard some use spray gun and gets good result, though i have not tried it.

 

not sure about putting clear coat on it, but did heard you can do it.

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  • 6 months later...

So I've tried Rustoleum Enamel on a car. Thinned with acetone. Orange peel, likely due to not being thinned enough (thinned 20%/80% -- 2oz acetone + 8oz paint).

 

Three coats, with 24 hours dry time between coats.

 

Problem now is that the paint is still soft. It doesn't feel "wet", just soft. I can scrape it off with my fingernail.

 

* Any ideas of what went wrong?

* How can I fix it on the current paint job?

* How can I make sure it doesn't happen next time I paint a car?

 

--Mark

 

http://www.marksatterfield.com

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So I've tried Rustoleum Enamel on a car. Thinned with acetone. Orange peel, likely due to not being thinned enough (thinned 20%/80% -- 2oz acetone + 8oz paint).

 

Three coats, with 24 hours dry time between coats.

 

Problem now is that the paint is still soft. It doesn't feel "wet", just soft. I can scrape it off with my fingernail.

 

* Any ideas of what went wrong?

 

Any reason why you used Acetone vs mineral spirits? Not really up on the chemicals, but that was what jumped out to me from your post.

 

To fix it, I suspect you should remove what is on there. If it is gummy, perhaps some paint remover would do the trick?

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