Guest 73LT1Z Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 Hate to bring up an really really old thread, but I need to know what type of Rustoleum to buy. Regular- oil based, they sell it at Lowes/Home Depot in basic colors like red and black. I had to order the Sunburst Yellow for my 280Z online. My Fquick page has pics of my Supra coats 1 through 6-7, and I am adding pics of the Z as I get more paint on it (currently up to 4). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 I used every thing from 400 to 1500 at the end before my final coat. I would maybe do it again but i would spray the paint on. Like spray 2 good coats and sand and then do maybe 3 more good coats and then wet sand and buff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calgary280ZT Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 Listen to jeffer....I put mine on with a roller and I'm spraying next time. He got great quality compared to mine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkach Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 By spray are we talking about rattle can , or hvlp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93anthracite Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 The problem with the roller method, while being extremely cheap, is that it takes a loooooong time to get a good result. You're talking about putting down 2-3 coats, then wet sanding the entire car, 2-3 coats, wetsand at higher grit, 2-3 coats, wetsand at even higher grit, etc. Multiply that by however many times it takes to get your desired effect and you'll understand Jeff's dismay. Your results can be fantastic, but you're going to be putting in a LOT of time. When I did mine, it turned out great, but it took me more than a month to finish the project (would come home and do 1 step every night after work). Sure, you can do it faster, but it may show... People will always say "why not get a compressor and a gun" and I say sure that is a great investment IF you have room to store it and all the extra stuff. The Rustoleum stuff is supposed to be pretty tough and once it is cured should be able to be polished, waxed, etc. just like a normal paint job. I didn't own my test mule long enough to see how the paint lasted long-term. For anybody not able to put the amount of time in and not interested in the compressor route, I would highly encourage them to research the Dupont Nason spray cans. It's like a rattlecan job, except it is professional auto paint with hardeners, capable of being tinted to any color you want (might be tough to do for Rustoleum jobs) and clearcoated if you desire. I haven't done it yet, but this is what I'll be doing on my next auto-paint project... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 HVLP or id just use a gravity feed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 Regular- oil based, they sell it at Lowes/Home Depot in basic colors like red and black. I had to order the Sunburst Yellow for my 280Z online. My Fquick page has pics of my Supra coats 1 through 6-7, and I am adding pics of the Z as I get more paint on it (currently up to 4). thanks. Thats all I needed. Wasn't expecting this this many responses. I just wanted to know enamel or acrylic. I'll just paint mine black for now, when I have everything ready. I can always paint it a different color later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSD Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 I might go HVLP, but I dunno, I am using just black after all. *shrugs* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iknowwhoyou_r Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 i know it's an old thread. just giving my inputs. i use: day one: day 2: day 3: day 4: day 5 and 6: hand buff once. imagine buffing it 3-4 times or with an electric buffer! i use this to buff in no details. anyone want to know detail, just ask. pics shows no justice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkach Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Any wet sanding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iknowwhoyou_r Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Any wet sanding? yes wet sand after drying 2nd coat, fifth coat and last coat with fine grit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkach Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 May i ask what grits and btw great looking job ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 wow! that looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iknowwhoyou_r Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 May i ask what grits and btw great looking job ! can't remember exactly but it's the finer grits, probably 400 and up regular lowe's sandpaper. you should work your way up to 1000 grit. that was just a sample i did on an old datsun 510 trunk. thanks guys... i'm starting that paint job soon and will do a write up along with pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 So... you just put it on bare metal? Does it not work well to go over some rattle can primer or rattle can paint? Only saying this because if you get the whole car down to bare metal you have to be fast, especially if you live in humid areas. Surface rust appears like within a week... Other than that my only questions are 1: the mineral spirits is to clean the surface or to thin the paint. Enamel may be a little rough for a spray gun...Lacquer thinner maybe? 2: Any sort of system for clear coats to protect it a little bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Mineral spirits is to thin the paint. you can thin the paint out enough to use it in a spray gun with excellent results too. For wetsanding, I'm a psycho and with things like this, I'd probably keep going PAST 1000 and go up to 2000 (I lap cpu IHS's, and go all the way up to COMPUTER PAPER as the final buffing/sanding) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iknowwhoyou_r Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 So... you just put it on bare metal? Does it not work well to go over some rattle can primer or rattle can paint? Only saying this because if you get the whole car down to bare metal you have to be fast, especially if you live in humid areas. Surface rust appears like within a week... Other than that my only questions are1: the mineral spirits is to clean the surface or to thin the paint. Enamel may be a little rough for a spray gun...Lacquer thinner maybe? 2: Any sort of system for clear coats to protect it a little bit? RUSToleaum says it all... it's made for rust. this is just a cheap way for those short on budget or should i say "poor man's paint" yes, thin it out with mineral spirits to almost "water" liquid. it can go over anything.. even painted stuff. just keep adding (rolling) more paint (then let dry, of course) until you can't see whats under it. i've heard some use spray gun and gets good result, though i have not tried it. not sure about putting clear coat on it, but did heard you can do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksatterfield Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 So I've tried Rustoleum Enamel on a car. Thinned with acetone. Orange peel, likely due to not being thinned enough (thinned 20%/80% -- 2oz acetone + 8oz paint). Three coats, with 24 hours dry time between coats. Problem now is that the paint is still soft. It doesn't feel "wet", just soft. I can scrape it off with my fingernail. * Any ideas of what went wrong? * How can I fix it on the current paint job? * How can I make sure it doesn't happen next time I paint a car? --Mark http://www.marksatterfield.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Globerunner513 Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 paint takes a while to harden up to the point you can start messing with it. try leaving it in the sun for a few days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73LT1Z Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 So I've tried Rustoleum Enamel on a car. Thinned with acetone. Orange peel, likely due to not being thinned enough (thinned 20%/80% -- 2oz acetone + 8oz paint). Three coats, with 24 hours dry time between coats. Problem now is that the paint is still soft. It doesn't feel "wet", just soft. I can scrape it off with my fingernail. * Any ideas of what went wrong? Any reason why you used Acetone vs mineral spirits? Not really up on the chemicals, but that was what jumped out to me from your post. To fix it, I suspect you should remove what is on there. If it is gummy, perhaps some paint remover would do the trick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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