BLOZ UP Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 I will be welding it to the frame, and it will look similar on the other side, except the mount has more lower support from the tie rod thing. It's 1/8" steel. That's a VG30 going in my '72. It just seems too... wide... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 IMO the mount itself looks good enough. It's the attachment to the car. Maybe spead out the load more along the much thinner frame rail top and bottom. Weld and also bolt it in with inside spacers inside the frame. What ever you do having a little overkill structure in this area can't hurt a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted June 14, 2007 Author Share Posted June 14, 2007 A few bolts in there with tight spacers sounds like a real good idea. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 That looks a lot like what I am doing with my LS motor. I did double up the frame rail by overlaying an L shaped piece of 18 guage sheet and welding it along the rail. Cut slots in the sheet so it wasn't just welded along the edges. If you put in a piece about a foot to foot and a half long then weld that on top it will really spread the load out and prevent stress points in the stock rails at the edges of your mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 For starters the mount looks pretty good. I think you should consider running a motor mount isolator. ( I am running the stock mount isolators) I see a couple of issues regarding strength. The lower point of the mount (the triagulating brace or gusset) Is at the lower edge of the frame rail. This will likely be transfering most of the load to the frame. I would adapt the mount (or add to it rather) another piece that will box the frame rail in. Ie the underside of the frame rail to keep your motor mount from crushing the lower part of the frame rail outwards, by crumpling the underside of the rail. You should also box in the outboard portion of the frame rail (wheel well side) at least 18 guage sheet metal, and travel out away from the mount a good 8 inches forward and back of the mount. To make it slightly easier, you could take your mount that you have already, and simply box in the stock frame rail with min 18 guage sheet metal on the top, inboard side, underside, and outboard side, bringing up the outboard side higher than the rail to tie it into the wheel well/strut towers. Then simply take your current mount and weld it to your newly boxed in frame rail. PM if you would like to discuss further. good luck Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Its fine with just a couple simple mods: 1. Box in the triangular opening 2. Double gusset and box in the area under the plate that the mount attached to the engine sits on. 3. Weld your mount all around to the 240Z frame as you have it sitting now 4. Cut off the stock mounts on the crossmember, and weld the crossmember to the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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