Guest dirtyleppa Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 im in the process of slightly moddifying my stock l20et motor with some rb20det injectors, rb20det turbo, exhaust, rb20det fuel pressure reg, larger 500hp fuel pump and 600x300x76 front mount. my main question is regarding the injectors as i have been told i will need injector resistors so i dont fry the factory ecu. i had priced up some VG30et injectors,which are low impedence injectors, but are a bit 2 hefty for a temporary mod so i have decided to go with some rb20det ones i have lying around. if any one has done this mod before it would help me a ♥♥♥♥ load if you tell me what was done and how as im abit lost here. i have looked into injector resistors but am confused as to what they do and how they should be hooked up and what else i need to get the whole package running smoothly. in my searches i have come to suspect i could use a ballast resistor over my coil, similar to that on a sr20, but i dont want to do too much just to end up killing my engine. another grey area for me is the timing aspect of these mods is the timing. how far should my timing be adjusted and how? any help would make my day and if any one can help me with this ill shout them some beers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacecase70 Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 as far as the resistors go, they are hooled up on the Positive side if the injectors. there are two resistor pace, 1 has 4 the other has 2. 1 12volt cable in and 4 or 2 out hope this helps i will find a pic for you to see how it is hooked up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Really depends on the ECU, mate! If the ECU you are using used injector resistors, then you will need them on this setup. If it's an in-chassis modification and you are tweaking the setup using off make injectors, then your harness probably has injector resistors already installed. You will have to do a bit of tracing to find out if you do. It's a silver-grey box---sometimes formatted with 4+2, sometimes one box with 7 wires in the bottom of it---usually near the brake reservoir/booster on LHD vehicles---so on the left side of the chassis (not near your booster, right!) Resistors normally are "X" Ohm, 3 to 5 watt. Look in the Megasquirt Forum, there is lots of limiting resistor talk there---I would go measure the resistance of my pack but it's late, the lights are all out, and it's time for my beddy bye! I know the stock setup in the Nissans is very close to what the Megasquirt formula figures out. Timing on the L20ET is usually done via a pneumatic retard module on the dizzy, so if you have one of those, you're set. Set as normal, and make sure when you put pressure to the diaphragm on the dizzy, you can see the idle timing (check with a timing light) retard 1 or 2 degrees per PSI applied. There will be a Limit, around 10 degrees, if you need more retard due to bad fuel you can modify the retard mechanisim to allow more retard by clearancing the stops, or simply convert to Megasquirt and program what number you want! LOL Generally 24 degrees at 10psi is considered normal, if you don't have pressure retard then you may be limited to setting total advance to 24 degrees and living with it (then you buy an MSD Boost Timing Master, so you can run 34 total, and dial in your retard in pounds per psi...then you see the Megasquirt Suggestion above and search for buyers for everything else you already bought! LOL) Christchurch, huh? Here's a long shot: Do you know a bloke named Kevin Lowe---Registered Compressor Engineer for Comp Air New Zeland? Motors about in a 32 Ford Lowboy Roadster and runs gymkhana... Like I said, it's a long shot... Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacecase70 Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117282 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Spacecase, be advised he's in New Zeland, and likely will not be using an ECU that is ECCS. The L20ET used EFI components, and did not have computer controlled timing in all cases. The 82-83 ECCS Diagram is not applicable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacecase70 Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 it was pertaining to the resistors, sorry for the confusion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagefumer11 Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Pm me, Moded my l20et pretty heavily. Dont use rb20det injectors. It isn't worth the hassle. I had some vg30et injectors i was running. Got them pretty cheep. (under $50) Most l20et's in NZ use the normal Optical CAS dizzy.Same as the l28et's All ive seen use this. Same with mine. I was running the vg30et injectors. 22deg BTC, Ported shaved/smoothed intake manifold 60mm throttle body, (port matched to manifold) rb25det FPR. Walbro 044 fuel pump. Located the afm to the front of the turbo inlet. Ran a rb20det turbo. 16psi. Made around 200rwhp. Pretty smooth power delivery. Was impressed with the power it made. Even more since she had done 480,000k! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Interesting Tidbit... Wish there was more delineation on what used what. I've seen both. Learn something new every day---in that case the wiring diagram is totally applicable. And I have another source of CAS units.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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