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water return line for a turbo


MONZTER

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Anyone have any thoughts if there would be a problem running the turbo out coolant line directly into the radiator. It is an aluminum radiator and it is cross flow, I would be run into the hot side. The in for the turbo will come off the water pump housing, or do you think the drain plug on the rear of the block would be better?

 

Thanks Jeff

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Have you considered using the water jacket access right below where your turbo hangs on the L6 block?

 

There is a large square head type plug on the intake/ exhaust side of the block from the factory, that can be removed to give access to the blocks water jacket. I've seen guys use this.

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Anyone have any thoughts if there would be a problem running the turbo out coolant line directly into the radiator. It is an aluminum radiator and it is cross flow, I would be run into the hot side. The in for the turbo will come off the water pump housing, or do you think the drain plug on the rear of the block would be better?

 

Thanks Jeff

 

The radiator hot side should work fine for the drain.

 

For the source, the only water pump access you have is for the inlet, so that would not work - you'd be pulling water from the hot side of the rad, instead of dumping it there. The drain plug (should be the same one that Joel mentioned) at the back of the block near the turbo would work better.

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Typically it will be from the Thermostat Housing, and returned to the pump inlet...

 

In this situation it will act as a cold startup bypass line, speeding warmup in cold weather. After shutdown there will also be somewhat of a thermal siphon through the hot side of the head, back to the cooler inlet side of the pump.

 

If you return directly to the radiator, you may (depending on line size) experience some longer warmup times due to the engine having to warm the whole system (or even the radiator) as well as the block when starting cold.

 

What you want is maximum differential pressure during operation. This is afforded by the standard Thermostat Housing, Pump Inlet Scenario. That keeps the turbo cool. Though taking the water source from the bottom of the block, and routing it back to the pump inlet would result in MUCH cooler water being supplied to the turbo, with all the advantages of the Thermostat Outlet...though thermal siphon may not work as well from that location.

 

I'd feel comfortable taking water source from either place (Thermo or block) and returning to the pump inlet for turbo cooling.

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Would I be correct in thinking that the hot water from the thermo housing is going into the turbo, getting hotter, and then back into the engine for another trip without seeing the radiator. Hmm seems bad, but I think this is how the factory did it, I wonder if feeding off the back of the block and returning to the radiator is better for cooling, but probably not as good for flow. This has got me thinking even more...

 

Thanks for all the input Jeff

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Would I be correct in thinking that the hot water from the thermo housing is going into the turbo, getting hotter, and then back into the engine for another trip without seeing the radiator. Hmm seems bad, but I think this is how the factory did it, I wonder if feeding off the back of the block and returning to the radiator is better for cooling, but probably not as good for flow. This has got me thinking even more...

 

Thanks for all the input Jeff

 

That is correct, it's 'double hot'. I think the block location would work as far as the cooler water goes...I think water pressure in the block will be nearly equal, if not a bit higher than at the top of the head near the last outlet restriction.

 

All you need is differential to flow water. Line sizing and turbo jacket design will determine how much actually flows. I think the factory line was only 10mm on the Z31's. The recirculation should not affect temps during hard runs that much. The flow is not that great with those size lines. If you do not use the factory bypass line that normally heats the T/B and Cold Start AAR Valve...then the turbo coolant line is your bypass line for cold starting anyway!

 

BTW, if you've noticed, the water inlet side of the block has an internal bypass water passage up near the front of the block that goes from the head to the block and to the water pump inlet casting in the front of the block. That gives you half the pump flow capability during closed-thermostat operation. To take the coolant line off the thermostat housing (like the factory does when it's heating the T/B and AAR) would give the second part of the bypass circuitry for cold running. It will also perform the function of releasing any steam bubbles that may accumulate on the 'high side' of the head during this time (though the 2mm orifice in the thermostat plate should do that as well).

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