dyno tuned w/ the squirt

[bryan01]

ms1 v2.2 w/ flyback running msextra (fuel only) ... the stock ecu is still running the spark and the ms1 is controlling fuel, but here's a dyno vid (i dont know if you guys check the rb forum much, i posted there too)

 

http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01/

 

it took 2.5 hours to tune the whole map from full vac to 8#'s. (stock boost)

but it runs incredible!

 

how it was tuned:

 

i did all the wiring and got it running and set up all the constants etc so all we had to do was tune the VE table. did one pull at XX boost (or vac when we first started) and would add throttle to keep it at that boost level. this would cause the engine to pull thru the rpm band at that one boost level, effectively going across the ve table at one point (limiting the boost axis). we'd look at the dyno graph, where it was lean/rich at what points, and go back to the VE table and adjust the fuel levels at those rpm points and do the pull again. once the afr was perfectly straight and where we wanted it at all rpms at that boost level, we'd move up to the next boost setting. worked out really well.

[Tony D]

Nice!

[hoohaa]

Is there anything you would do differently?

[bryan01]

Is there anything you would do differently?

 

referring to what? the megasquirt or the dyno tuning or the car or ... ?

 

as far as the ms1 goes, no, i love it. msextra is working great, i bought a prebuilt one from a friend so i knew it worked, but i still got a stim board to MAKE SURE it worked before i put it on my car. i did all the hard parts, the tuner said if i had come to him asking to tune a squirt that wasnt working yet he would have said no. also i didnt have to mess w/ timing at all, which is a big help. it would have added an entirely new level of complexity that i didnt want to deal w/ yet and i'm glad i didnt. once it's been running for a while i may add on the timing options (which is more difficult for an ms1, i may just upgrade to an ms2 v3 at that point). the ms2's have the ign options built in, where an ms1 squirt would have to add on hardware etc. for stock boost it's putting down more hp than what the motor was rated for, so i can't complain at all (motor is rated at 240hp at the crank, and mine is putting 240 to the wheels). the only mods i have are the fuel system and an intercooler. the turbo should take up to ~14psi, so once it's been around the block a few times i'm going to turn it up and go back for some more tuning, but i should be able to reuse most of my VE map so that works great too.

 

he did in 2 and a half hours on a dyno what would have taken me forever on the street. saved me a lot of stress woring about traffic and things breaking etc etc. the dyno wasnt w/o problems. i forgot to put my dipstick in so when he did the 0psi run it blew some oil out like a blow hole. also none of my band clamps on my intake were tight enough, so at 0psi it blew the bov pipe right off. if either of those had happened while driving it could have been really bad.

[hoohaa]

Yeah I was referring to what you would do differently if you were to go back to the dyno.

[z-ya]

Nice work! Nothing like having the right tools to do the job. After just 2.5 hours, you can drive it, and enjoy it! People spend months trying to dial it in on the street. Investing in dyno time has saved you a lot of time and frustration.

 

Nice HP numbers for stock boost. My car makes 245WHP at 12psi (stock long block and turbo). Not much more power than your setup, but it makes 310ft-lbs at 3000RPM

 

Keep up the great work.

[Tony D]

Yeah, JeffP did the Nisstune thing...45 minutes on N/A portion, then another 45 minutes on Boost Load Scalars. Making passes from 80 to 120mph while trying to adjust the AFR is just not practical on the street.

[Kash]

Looks great...you should think about posting your ve table on the sticky.

[Guest wyldemannn]

Bryan! Thanks man! I tore the rpm generator down, completely rebuilt it and now i get a varying positive voltage signal during cranking! At cranking speeds, i'm getting 1.74-2.08v. Does that sound right? Also, Matt@DIYautotune said MS MUST have 12v pulse to determine rpm. We both know this is wrong, since the CAS will technically run the MS and it produces 5v MAX. I think I have an MS issue as I have rechecked my wiring and everything else incl. firmware. I sent the MS to Matt and he checked it and said it works fine on the stim. I don't have a stim to test with, so i'm at his mercy. However, I'm not able to trigger an rpm signal from the neg coil terminal of another running vehicle so I suspect the MS. What do you think?

[bryan01]

Bryan! Thanks man! I tore the rpm generator down, completely rebuilt it and now i get a varying positive voltage signal during cranking! At cranking speeds, i'm getting 1.74-2.08v. Does that sound right? Also, Matt@DIYautotune said MS MUST have 12v pulse to determine rpm. We both know this is wrong, since the CAS will technically run the MS and it produces 5v MAX. I think I have an MS issue as I have rechecked my wiring and everything else incl. firmware. I sent the MS to Matt and he checked it and said it works fine on the stim. I don't have a stim to test with, so i'm at his mercy. However, I'm not able to trigger an rpm signal from the neg coil terminal of another running vehicle so I suspect the MS. What do you think?

 

now you're getting somewhere. it's really easy to mess up soldering, no worries.

 

if matt says it's working, it's working. one of the first things i got was a working stim. and i'm keeping it. alot of people sell it back but i think it's a great diagnostic tool if you're ever stuck (ie i'd suggest you buy one to just have).

 

now i'm going to go downstairs and test my rpm board out and report back exactly what it's doing before i say what i think it's doing and have to put my foot in my mouth...

[Matt Cramer]

Sorry if things were a bit ambiguous - our standard 280ZX installation is supposed to give it a 12 volt signal, but it also works with 5 volts. But it must get a clear signal of some sort to run.