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HybridZ

64 New Yorker won't start.


SuperPickle

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Heya,

I know it's not about my 280z, but Hybridz is just this much more awesome (strains arms to each side). The car in question is a 1964 Chrysler New yorker. The engine was swapped out 2+ years ago from a 413 to a '65 Chrysler 383. The carb was swapped over from the original, and leaks a VERY small amount of gas. All fluids check out fine. The engine started up fine with no issues two days prior, with no trouble for the previous month while it was driven every day.

 

Symptoms: When I have the key in 'start', the engine starts as normal, but when I bring the key back to 'run', it cuts out immediately.

 

Things I and a AAA mechanic checked:

 

- Battery holds charge, or at least it does when being jumped :rolleyesg.

- Mechanic hooked up a 'thingy' to each sparkplug wire coming off the distributor, and seemed satisfied with the results.

- Fuel is being pumped into carb.

- Exhaust came out of the the pipe, including a backfire today from repeated starts.

 

Tools at my disposal:

 

- Three vice-grips.

- Three philips screwdriver (one stubby).

- One tube-bender.

- One flat-head screwdriver.

- One pair of pliers.

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I had a 63 (two 63's actually) with pushbutton transmissions. It wouldnt start if the neutral lever wasnt slid down, also the pushbutton system was a bakelite (before plastic) vaccum box with hoses, as soon as a nipple breaks or a hose cracks you start having problems.

 

They're beautiful cars no matter what anyone says :)

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SteelToad: I've had that problem before, but when that happens, I wouldn't get anything at all. Pushing another gear and pushing it back into neutral usually cleared that right up. When it didn't the good ol' "screwdriver-under-the-hood" trick worked like a charm :mrgreen:.

Yeah, it looks great, just sitting there!

 

Dr_Hunt: I actually debated which of the two to put it into. The troubleshooting section just made more sense to me, considering the topic. I'll put these types of threads in the non-tech from now on. My apologies.

 

Rockr69: You're not the first to say that, but I must admit I was really hoping that the knowledgable reply I got was some sort of quick fix that didn't involve figuring out how to take the dash off!

BTW, do you know where I can find a DIY guide for this?

 

Once I'm done I'm going to sell the damned thing and get back to the Z!

Thank you for the help!

 

-Ryan

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No Ryan I don't have any advice on dash removal, however I think your car has the one of the two electronic ignitions in it and you might be having a problem there. Years ago my uncle had an Imperial with the same problem and we swapped out the ignition "module" in it and boom! she fired right up. Hope this can help and good luck. I would start there and then the ignition switch if the dizzy checks out.

 

 

Several minutes later.....Upon re-reading your original post I'm convinced you have distributor problems. Definitely start there.GL

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Try a new ballast resistor, the white ceramic thing bolted to the firewall and wired to the coil. There are two types, two wire and four wire, get the same kind you have.

 

If that doesn't do it, you probably need a new ignition switch.

 

Post a pic. Old Mopars are cool.

 

jt

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Try a new ballast resistor, the white ceramic thing bolted to the firewall and wired to the coil. There are two types, two wire and four wire, get the same kind you have.

 

If that doesn't do it, you probably need a new ignition switch.

 

Post a pic. Old Mopars are cool.

 

jt

 

I second the above thought... If you have a 4 wire resistor, one side is for starting, the other is for running. When the run side goes open, engine dies when starter is released. With the single resistor, start may run straight 12 volts to the coil, and run insert the dropping resistor. Again, if it is open, the car would die as soon as the starter is released.

 

64's were pre electronic ignition... If it is still points, possibly the flexible wire in the distributor is bad. Engine starts, vacuum advance moves the breaker plate, engine dies.

 

 

I find it interesting that only Zs may have technical problems.:icon13:

 

 

<>

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Here she is! I got her for $3,500 about a month and a half ago. She ran fine, if a bit 'boaty'. Powersteering was crazy-easy. The only things wrong with it, aside from this issue, was that the paint and chrome could use a once-over, and a bit of rust/body work. Also, when he swapped the engine in, he put the carb from the 413 onto it the REALLY needs a rebuild/replace. I was about to buy a Holley 670 cfm for it but I got laid off about a week ago.

 

I had AAA tow it to a guy's garage that I met this weekend up at the Epping Nationals in NH. He invited my super-hot roomate up there, and I tagged along. While there, I went out of my way to help him with prepping his car, and he took a liking to me. Stage1: accomplished! Got him to want me to bring my own car, which is when I brought up the fact that I had two cars not running, which is when he volunteered to help! Stage2:accomplished! Now I'm just waiting to hear back and see if he's going to rape me with parts/labor...

The wife 002_thumb.jpg

The wife 003_thumb.jpg

The wife 004_thumb.jpg

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