2eighTZ4me Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Well, as I posted earlier, I think MM KNOWS there is an issue that they won't fess up to. How come they don't have the process documented in black and white on their website? How come nobody from MM even bothers patrolling these threads to see how their product is doing? There are numerous threads on this site pertaining to this fitment problem. Any response from ANYone at MM??? Hell no. It's YOUR problem once you buy them. I wanted to get a set of the welded companion flanges and convert my 280 since I have an extra set of shafts. I sent 4 e-mails asking what their turnaround procedure is and how they want to be paid. I'm basically shaking money in my hands at them and they don't reply. Last time (when I bought the billet flanges) was some lame excuse that they only check e-mail every 3 days or so. C'mon guys, it's been over a month and they can't reply to little ol' me with cash in hand??? Their customer service SUCKS ASS!!! and their technical support is no better. Hence - they don't have a phone # listed anywhere so you can call them. That'd put them in the technical support business, and they can't afford to do that. You know they're afraid their phones would be ringing off the hook!! Rotten service!! Should be called Monkey Motorsports...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeygoz1 Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 Hello I'm also experiencing the same problem with my 73 240Z. I have an open R-200 with the 300zxt half shaft,and flipped the bearing cage and noticed a binding noise when I test drove it around the block. I removed the half-shafts and noticed on both driver and passenger side grease caps was an indentation where the shaft from the bearing cage was rubbing on the grease cap. I'm assuming that it may have to do with both half shaft being to long or just the one passenger side putting to much pressure on everything. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 I retract my prior statements about MM. They've obviously got a lot on their plate, and they WERE very attentive once I sent them money! I also happened to catch them on holiday, so that was ignorance on my behalf. Got my new flanges today. Will be converting my 280 daily driver over in the next couple weeks, so I'll be able to post then, as the 240 has still got a looooong while before it sees the first drop of gas. I HAVE read that the end caps need to be removed, and I believe I caught it in a passing mention in MM's advertising. I have yet to run on this setup, so I cannot attest. Can anyone else chime in? I'll obviously have to do some more research and interpolation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 I HAVE read that the end caps need to be removed, and I believe I caught it in a passing mention in MM's advertising. I have yet to run on this setup, so I cannot attest. Can anyone else chime in? I'll obviously have to do some more research and interpolation. As I mentioned earlier, I'm running the Z31 CV's with the caps installed. But I'm not running the MM adapters. I still haven't been able to get dimensions on mine yet though... Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted September 30, 2008 Author Share Posted September 30, 2008 there are some answers in another thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134383&highlight=getz&page=2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 OK - I finally got around to doing my 280, and had the whole thing swapped over in 50min. flat. The reman shafts I had were the ones I used (from earlier posts). They had been flipped. I got the "weld on" MM adapters for the 280. I had to jack up the suspension, and used a hammer to tap them in place (didn't put the full weight of the car on the rear susp. though). The fit was indeed tight. With the rear suspension hanging free, I had a problem with the boots rubbing on the rear sway bar end link. When I dropped the car on the ground, got about 1/4" clearance. I did not remove the end caps. This is an open R200 diff. I have Tokico springs and struts, so the car has been lowered a bit. Drove the dog piss out of it after taking a couple "cautious" laps around the block. No binding, grinding, bumping, nothing. The clunk from the U-joints is gone, and the car seems drive a bit smoother. I have since put about 200 miles on the setup with no issues whatsoever. The 240 is about to see the road, so I'll see how it does in that setup with the AZC rear suspension and the CLSD from a turbo Z31. From just rolling it up and down the driveway, I hear no binding or clunking or anything. So far, so good. Believe me - I was extremely nervous about doing this, as the 280 is my DD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bakerzxt Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Ok well I have been reading through all of these posts about the cv axles and how people have had problems with the cv's binding. I have a 72 and I bought a clsd out of a z31. I also ordered the mm cv companion flange adapters for the 300zx cv's and I also ordered the mustache bar, front diff mount, and the brace kit for the finned diff cover from arizona z car and before I buy the cv's I want to make sure i order the right ones. What cv's should i buy? And what type of modification will i need to do to make it work? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 The shafts you need are out of a TURBO 300ZX from 84-89. The late 87-89 Z31 turbo's had the LSD diff, but all the turbo cars from 84-89 had the 4 bolt shafts that work with the MM comp. flanges. I would HIGHLY recommend sourcing a set of used pieces off a car that you absolutely know has factory shafts. I've heard nightmare stories of the AutoZone shafts (made in China) not fitting worth a damn and causing all kinds of fitment problems. One guy even had his Quaife LSD eaten up by shafts that were too long. Get the shafts with the green ends - and avoid remans if at all possible. I'm surprised MM didn't send you a .pdf file with the instructions on how to flip the inner bearing cage to achieve the proper shaft fitment. They sent it to me via e-mail with my receipt of payment. May want to shoot Ross an e-mail and ask him for the document. It's terribly simple (greasy as hell - but simple) and takes about a half hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted December 4, 2008 Author Share Posted December 4, 2008 even with the right CV shafts the axles may be to wide. It seems the guys having problems are the ones running the aftermarket LSD's. I have a power brute and somebody else had a Quaife., I don't know if the stock Nissan LSD had problems. Somewhere in one of the posts, somebody put the specs on the shaft lengths. There is definitely a long side and a short side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 Short side = driver side. Long side = passenger side. Getz - wasn't it you that chewed up a Quaife? I know it was someone on this forum. They started hearing grinding noises after a couple hundred miles, and ended up losing his ring gear due to pressures on the diff from the tight fitting axles. On my racecar, I have the R200 LSD diff, and while I've only driven it maybe a mile total, I didn't hear any creaking, grinding, popping, or otherwise. My DD which has an open diff - I've put probably a couple thousand miles on it so far without any problems. I'll have the racecar going soon, and will know for sure, but as it stands, I personally can't answer that question 100% positively. I've heard the problems are more prevalent on "lowered" cars, but my DD has the Eibach/Tokico package, and the racecar is on Bilstein coilovers and has an extremely low ride height. No audible/visible problems as of yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARZ_ Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 I had similar problems when I installed mine. I made the adapters and never had seen any of the MM ones in person. I have very wide 17 inch wheels and tires and had to move my suspension around to get the tires to stop rubbing and the out board CV splined shaft not to bind. I have AZC Chromemoly rear LCA's and elipticals inboard, and have a crazy amount of adjustment on my camber plates up top. I was able to move the whole assembly outboard enough to make the stuff clear. I still need to move them back inboard but I just havent gotten around to it. Im not sure why no one has entertained the idea of cutting the snap ring groove a little more inboard and cutting the offending end off of the out board side of the splined drive shaft. Thats what I plan to do. Someone mentioned that it only took them less than an hour and it was messy. Mine were almost pressed on they took a crazy amount of force to remove and reinstall and YES it was a super messy job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted December 5, 2008 Author Share Posted December 5, 2008 Im not sure why no one has entertained the idea of cutting the snap ring groove a little more inboard and cutting the offending end off of the out board side of the splined drive shaft. Thats what I plan to do. You don't need to cut back quite that far. You can gain quite a bit without having to recut the groove. Pictures and all: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134383&highlight=300zxt&page=2 The thread is getting a little old now, but the pictures say it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARZ_ Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 You don't need to cut back quite that far. You can gain quite a bit without having to recut the groove. Pictures and all: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134383&highlight=300zxt&page=2 The thread is getting a little old now, but the pictures say it all. I did a bit of reading and I couldnt find what you were trying to tell me. I did not know you could flip both ends of the CVs I only did the outers. Notice In my original post I said "I made my own". They are .375 thick I have never seen MM weld on flanges in person and Im pretty sure his photos are vague for a reason. So people dont copy them. After installing mine I came to the conclusion that the MM weld on adapters must have that rectangle shape machined into the adapter to provide more clearance. Maybe thats not the case, either way I had a hell of a time getting mine to not bind and the only way I could manage with the limited time and resources I had (I was out of town at a friends house when I HAD to do this swap) was to adjust the LCA's since I had elipticals on the inner and AZC chromemoly LCA's. Anyone have a good high res photo of the MM weld on adapters they could post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNick Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Pop the endcap off the outer cv and grind off about 5mm of the splined shaft before the snap ring. Then put the end cap back on and install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 I I did not know you could flip both ends of the CVs I only did the outers. ?????? Nobody said anything about flipping inner part of the CV. I only flipped the outside ball bearing cage as per MMS instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARZ_ Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 ?????? Nobody said anything about flipping inner part of the CV. I only flipped the outside ball bearing cage as per MMS instructions.I just skimmed it real quick and I couldn't find it either, I thought I saw that skimming it earlier. OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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