ARZ_

I have driven my 7M powered Z to Vegas 3+ times and SoCal 4+ times to the MSA west coast nationals and vacations, and have gotten 27~28 mpg when I kept my foot out of it and left the A/C on. I used a GPS to get accurate mileage as I have a 3.73, CLSD, and checked it via the pump for actual gallons, on the trips to and from. But if I abuse it, I can get it down to 15~17 mpg.

What would you consider the "right car"? A $2000 straight rust free builder, or an all out $20K plus show car, or a bone stock showroom perfect original classic? Feel free to email/PM me if you want the fastest most reliable mechanically finished Z car you can buy, with working A/C! Almost no expense spared, I wouldn't hesitate to hop in this car tomorrow and drive it 3000 miles to where ever you wanted it delivered. Go ahead and check your PM's for a link to a ton of details, including my phone number if your interested.

I have run the 4 lug and the 5 lug in both 12.2 and 13.06 and I would say dont waste your time on the 300ZX or Toyota calipers. The Wilwoods weigh WAY less, look and work WAY better. Agreed, you will be much happier in the end. I can tell you from experience that you will love your AZC Wilwood brakes. I cant believe you can run the exhaust that close to the coilpacks, are you sure they can handle that much heat? Man looking at this photo makes me wonder if there was any way you could exit the (pressurized) side of the turbo and go to the drivers side of the car to the IC then exit the IC and go straight to the throttle body seems like less criss crossing tubes but Im not standing there. On this photo below are you sure that black tyvec will hold up to being so close to the exhaust manifold? Take no chances with the WG and BOV plumbing, I did mine in hard stainless line where it was close to the exhaust manifold. Ask me why? Ok Ill tell you, I already lost a motor to melted/failed WG plumbing. All I can say is WOW that exhaust is close to plastic parts. Hope they dont melt, you can still get some more exhaust wrap, or make some swanky heat shield. Maybe you already have it taken care of, and I didn't see the photo.

Yea, this was my reply below. His response below ^^^If this is the case I would recommend checking and rechecking these two sensors^^^ If this is truly the only thing you modified on your car. Otherwise you get to pay them hourly to randomly stumble upon this error that you could have told them about. I never could tell from your description if it reved PERFECTLY to 2000 (or 3500) or if it broke up on its way there. If it reved PERFECTLY I would look at the sensor wheel and its air-gap and the teeth and make sure they looked PERFECT. I have seen metal chips and bent dammaged or not straight rings, work PERFECTLY right up to a specific rpm then loose TDC and sound just like the "Brick wall" you are describing. But still no one commented on the fact that if you can make boost by 3500rpms (enough to vent the blow off valve) then you are burning fuel in the exhaust manifold NOT in the cylinders, and this is an indication your firing order MUST be wrong, at least when it gets to 3500 rpms. Good luck, take a friend with you when you go to pick it up as you will only hear about half of what they tell you. Chances are when you go to pick it up they will tell you so much stuff you will never remember all of what they say. Hope it all works out and let us know, we like to learn too.

Did everybody miss this??? If you put another guys AEM on your car and it did the same thing as it did before I would guess it was one of your sensors. Maybe I missed where somebody responded to this comment!?!? But based on this comment ALONE I would say you need to start checking your car, the harness, or the sensors. I have seen harnesses that have been wired incorrectly, even the positive and negative matter on the injectors, with some ECU's. Have you checked that? This is 100% symptomatic of unburnt fuel getting into the exhaust manifold and combusting and building boost. Im not sure about you guys but I cant build boost at no load by 3500 rpms. You still have a problem with something on YOUR motor, INJECTOR(s), CRANK POSITION SENSOR, CAM TIMING, IGNITION TIMING OR FIRING ORDER. Anybody disagree with me? I didn't read every single word in every post since my last, so feel free to point it out if I missed something.

Not sure if this will work for you but take a look at how I did my intercooler. All the photos can be seen in my build thread.

Don't "think so." KNOW SO!!! Check don't guess. I agree 100% that's why I mentioned it. When idling, an inline 6 has an amazing capacity for improper spark timing. You would be very surprised at how smooth your L motor idles if you swap 2 and 4. Don't believe me, TRY IT! PLUS!!! you did not answer my question. Did you do WOT in the video or were you easing into the throttle? 1. Dont answer all the questions. 2. Dont bother checking (for sure) the problems that people that have already done what you are doing. 3. Give extremely short responses, with no conclusion. 4. And make sure "all involved" know your not going to check that "cause you already did that when you installed it." This is the quickest way NOT to get help.

It sounds like you have the firing order wrong. 1,5,3,6,4,2 will idle fine and do EXACTLY what yours does in the video. You state that it runs fine until 2500 but if you have it floored until it gets to 2500 I think that sounds like CRAP. Also watching your boost gauge, supports my theory. WOT at that kind of acceleration rate wont build boost unless you have unburnt fuel getting into the exhaust and igniting there. Thats why the longer you stay on the throttle the more it appears to build boost. Hope this helps, please keep us posted. Obviously its supposed to be 1,5,3,6,2,4 Also are you going WOT when it accelerates? Or are you easing into it? Please let us know.

I thought they were identical. Im definitely no authority so please keep us posted if you find out.

I agree a big huge old GM car might be a bigger car and seem somewhat safer, but I worked in a Z Junkyard while I was going to college and I saw dozens of crashed Z's and as far as I know there were no fatality crash vehicles, (the insurance company's legally had to disclose this information). There were many vehicles we had where the original owner recognized his car and told us the story. Every one of them (where we heard the story) walked away from their cars. Some it was their fault and others it wasn't, but all remarked on how well the car absorbed the impact. One car was a head on so violent it broke each SU manifold in half and drove them and carbs and air cleaner through the firewall. It was amazing and sure enough a customer came in and he knew the original owner and said the guy walked away. One friend zipping though an intersection got tagged by some old people that didn't know they weren't supposed to turn left when there wasnt an arrow. The A pillar was less than 4 inches from his head when you sat in the drivers seat and the drivers side foot well was crushed almost to the trans. He hurt his wrist and never even bumped his head. He was always one of those guys that ALWAYS wore his seat belt. Of all the things you can do to an S30 to make it more crash worthy the one I see most often overlooked is protection around the foot well. If you weld a bar from right in front of the feet (outside) to right above TC rod and basically build a small box of tubes around your feet, you would be wise to do so. Its something you never see and the chances of someone turning left into your side of the car are relatively high. This is more for a race car with a cage, Im not advocating you do that with this car. I think thats a wonderful thing, I hope it works out. I would also encourage you to enter them in Autocross, as early as SCCA rules would permit. I was (and still am) a speed demon and having a vent like that would have prevented so many tickets. My parents bought my brother and I a car to share (we are one year apart, am the oldest, I was 17 years old at the time). We got it the summer before my senior year in high school. The plan was we both pay for the car and who ever pays it off first gets to keep it. It all would have went perfect except for the fact that I had a job and LOVED cars and he had a love for neither (a job or cars). In 1985 my dad had a friend at a used car dealer and found a great deal on a beautiful black 1977 Olds Cutlass 2 door, it was a very nice car that had just been painted and had the motor rebuilt. It was a VERY cool first car, I waxed and washed it every week, sometimes twice a week, the muffler fell off and I fixed that, it needed brakes I fixed that, it needed a radiator hose and some shocks, so I fixed those, it needed a car stereo so I did that. If it needed to be done "I" did it and paid for it. I also saved all of my money and was making payments to my dad and dreaming of the day when it would be all mine. My brother DROVE the car, that's ALL!!! Oh wait, he drove the car to his girlfriends that lived down a dirt road (it wasn't even his girlfriend he was just stalking her and she was stringing him along LOL). Also he left his golf clubs in the trunk.... and well, you know I didn't take corners like it was a Cutlass I took corners like it was a Z car. One day I noticed all these little dents in the back... I was like WTH. I popped the trunk and broke every single club in half, my brother caught me while I was breaking the very last one over my knee and we had it out right there in the front yard. LOL. Needless to say, my brother thinks of a car as a way to get from point A to B. I think a little differently!!! Today he drives a Buick Rendezvous for god sake. All I can say is, if one kid shows quite a bit more interest and respect for the car than the other you might want to revisit the original agreement and see if a compromise cant be reached. My parents weren't the best a fair treatment, and my brother and I still dont get along like we should, but maybe your kids get along great, and wont have any problems. I am jealous of others that have a good relationship with their siblings, Im sure if they get along good and work things out that this could work great. If they dont, make sure to step in early. Oh I almost forgot about the end of the story. One week before I get to drive my own car to school for the first time, I went on a hiking vacation in Isle Royale national park in the middle of Lake Superior. When I returned, the car was sitting in the driveway in the rain with a tarp duct taped over the passenger side. I lifted the tarp and the left side of the car was caved in to almost the middle of the passenger seat. My brother had turned left in front of someone and TOTALED the car. Luckily his friend in the passenger seat wasn't hurt to bad.

I have had 4 different types of 275/40-17's on my car and the widest were Kumho V710's and they fit but just barely, and YES I did have to roll the inner rear fender lip. Right now I have Mickey Thomson street E/T's and they are a little taller, Maybe they are 45's but they stick so awesome I cant go back to a tire that fits better. Im going to move them inboard so I can continue to lower the rear, it looks a bit high since the tire is too tall and the section width changed. MAN TO THEY HOOK UP!!! Even at 22 PSI I can use all of second gear. BTW I am running the AZC 5 lug rear conversion along with the AZC coil overs and AZC LCA's. The wheels are 17x9x35mm offset and you will probably need some sort of camber plates to move the top of the wheel around too. I made custom ones so I could retain the stock interior. In order of widest to narrowest tires (all were 275/40-17's) also included is how sticky they were/are. Kumho V710's (Treadwear rating 30) Mickey Tompson Street E/T's (Treadwear rating 0) Kumho V70a's (aka ECASTA V700's) (Treadwear rating 50) Nitto 555 Drag Radial's (Treadwear rating 100) The Treadwear ratings were represenative, zero being the stickiest and 100 being the least sticky.

I merely stated a good way to create oil pressure on an L motor without it running only as a suggestion to others. I clearly stated the benefits of a shim and bucket valve train (since that is what an RB motor has). I stated the type of oil pump an RB has and I NEVER suggested he rush any portion of the project and I never got excited about it either. WTF:sour: Agree all you want, but the fact remains. I never suggested he rush anything.

Im gonna assume the worst case scenario: A full weight Z with just the rear struts or wheels missing. I say get a 8-10 foot 2X6 stick it thru the wheel wells put 2 guys on each side and you should have no problem lifting it. Put the front on jack stands as high as you can get it. Lift the rear and back the trailer up to the back of the Z. Use a come-along and furniture dollys under the dog-legs to get the front tires the rest of the way on the trailer. If that is the case and the guy has a few hours, it cant take more than that to assemble the rear suspension enough to at least ROLL it. That would be the easiest. Its only 22 bolts total If the LCA is still attached to the rear strut housing. They only need to be finger tight, unless the trailer ride is a long one.

I have an HKS FCD, it should work fine for the 7MGTE ECU. I cant say what you need for the 1JZ ECU, hell your going to be on stock twins for a while right?!?!

Oh I forgot to include that .84 g's was in 3rd gear not first gear.

When ever I see a BRE spoiler I think "1970's Camaro". Not sure which came first the spoiler on the Camaro or the BRE, but that has always been my mental image. I think the car looks great the way it IS!!! Cant wait to see a video of it running. Another guy here in AZ just bought a 1JZ and 5 speed, cant wait to see that one go together, too.

Yea I have heard others have this problem too, but I have never had a problem. I know Clifton had a problem with his until he installed a heat sink and then he was fine. Also, thanks for the compliments. Post 3, 4, 5, 6 & 7 I posted right away so that no one would jump in and comment before I was finished posting photos. I didn't know that they locked the content on this site after 24 hours. THIS TOTALLY SUCKS!!! There are always things that I would like the option to edit after the fact and not everyone wants to read every post when a thread gets really long. If the status of my vehicle changed I would love to be able to edit the first post, many other sites let you change this, not sure why Hybrid Z feels locking the thread is a good idea. I really hate searching all of Mulls posts to find his latest videos. I still haven't found video 18 and 19.

I have had mine closer to the Turbo than that for years, it will be fine. Also you will be very surprised at how quiet your exhaust is at idle and regular driving rpms. Mine is straight thru with a home made straight thru muffler and its perfect, not to loud and not too quiet. Im getting old and wouldnt mind if it was a little quieter, but everyone that hears it says its perfect. Ask Aaron about going for a ride in mine. Mine was only at 16~17psi when I took him for a spin.

I wish you could go back and edit your posts. But I wanted to confirm the sizes of the front and rear wheels, since many have asked. They are 5 Zigen FNO1RC's 17x9 x35mm offset for the rear and 17x8 x 25mm for the front. I know I would like the fronts to stick out a bit more, but was able to use the AZC Billet front LCA's to get a little closer to the fender. I wouldn't recommend being too aggressive with moving the suspension out. Remember the 2X the diameter rule. I also run the AZC full coilover kit along with Billet front LCA's and Chromemoly rear LCA,s with eccentrics installed on the inboard pivots. Also I have AZC camber plates (as you can see) in the front and custom camber plates in the rear. Also I have a Z31 CLSD, originally I had to cut down the driver side half shaft about 3/8" inches. Later I installed the CV's and had to move the wheels out a bit to keep them from bottoming on the stub axle bolt. Hope that answers all the questions about the wheels and how I got 275/40/17's to fit in the rear and 245/40/17's in the front. BTW I have no problems with rubbing, but it did take a bit of adjusting and rolling the inner lip of the fenders.

On an L motor if you can get an extra distributor drive gear you can grind off the gears and install the shaft and use a drill motor and get oil pressure to the entire motor before it is ever started. Honestly on a shim and bucket cam I dont think you need as much lube as on a rocker design, since the bucket spins around and cams are so much wider. Since this is a Gearotor pump your only option for prelube is for a Canton Accusump, kind-of overkill but very cool.

Thats Insane, one by one?!?! You will never finish it! Just go get a front harness out of the same year. Steel the lighting harness. Cut out all the others, unless you want to use teh factory fuel pump wires to trigger the relay to the new fuel pump. I ran a huge wire and a relay to trigger it, to the fuel pump to reduce the voltage drop to the pump. For the alternator you need one thin wire to the ignition, on mine it was the yellow wire in the brown round 3 prong connector on the alt. Also I ran the big wire straight to the Battery with a big 60 amp fuse in it very close to the battery. I got the harness and the ECU inside the firewall and found: 1. ground to the ECU 2. constant battery power, to ECU 3. Ignition Switched power to the ECU, (make sure this one doesn't go dead when the key is in start position.) 4. The A/C switched wire (hooked it to the A/C clutch wire) 5. Tach output wire and ran it to the 7M tach guts in the Z housing. The Tach isnt perfectly accurate, but who cares, 1000 rpms and 6000 rpms are in the same location, and it bounces off the rev limiter so violently, you can never rely on a tach. All the other wires for the factory gauges I left intact, so my oil pressure and water temp would work fine. I also left the factory Reverse light wires in the harness, and hooked it to the R154 and it works perfect. It was that easy!!!! If you want to pick thru it one by one, be my guest, but you are waisting your time. Oh, other wires you will want to keep that go into the engine bay, (besided the lighting) will be: 1. The horn wires 2. Windshield Wiper wires 3. Wiper Squirts 4. Master Cylinder float wires (brake warning light) 5. Fuel pump relay wires 6. Amp meter wires, (hook this directly to the big wire to your alt, AFTER the fuse)

I never said it was without meth. Clifton has had an L28 over 400 WHP for a long time, its a track car and it does seem to use up Transmissions and other stuff. I would ask him, but opportunity for you to get a very reliable trans and clutch out of the 7M and R154 combo shouldn't be over looked. You will pay for this reliability with a weight penalty. See my post here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125246 I think the reliability and clutch options are well worth it. I know they were supposed to be a bit more stout, but I haven't seen any info on them either. I was most interested in finishing the car and getting it running. If you went for a ride you wouldn't worry about the length for a second. Yea it could be done cleaner and yea I could redo it, but its CRAZY fast the way it is, and it would be a ton of effort for very little HP gain.

I had a FSM for the 1971 240Z and a FSM for the Toyota Supra that I got the motor and harness out of. You will NEED those two things. In the 240Z the headlight harness and engine harness are integral I had to take apart the harness to find the proper wires and integrate them into my harness. If your 280Z harness is like the 240Z harness, you will need to get another harness, at least to make the front lighting easier on yourself. My Alternator is a system unto itself, although I did hook up the Amp meter, and all the factory temp and oil pressure gauges, just to make it look kinda stock. Put a Boost gauge where the clock was and a few more gauges in the glovebox along with the WB wiring. Also many State side Supra owners that buy JDM front cuts extend the harness to make the harness run thru the firewall in the same place as a LHD car. Sounds like a good idea if it will fit under the cowl cover, just make sure your wiper linkage doesn't interfere. If your using the stock tach you will need to do something there. I stole the guts out of a MK3 gauge cluster, the COP setup of the 2JZ will definitely not work with the stock tach. If your going with aftermarket gauges to make all the other gauges work will be the easy part. The hard part will be if you want to keep the factory gauges and all that. For the Speedo your in luck that should hook right up to the R154 no problem. Your speedo might be off a little bit, but at least it will work.

I have forged JE pistons, and Eagle rods. He has JE pistons and stock rods. You ran 26 psi on pump gas?!?! Man you were lucky, and correct to be afraid. Yea its something like that. They are only safe to about 18 psi on pump gas in the summer. For dyno runs, its race gas and secret sauce. Except that 23psi in my sig was on pump gas.