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T5 swap now no clutch?


rags

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I swapped out the T5 that was behind my L6 for one that had less miles because mine was very noisey, worn bearings. I used the same bell housing, clutch fork and throwout bearing but somehow lost the ability to release the clutch. It does not disengage completely nit allowig me to get the car into gear. I thought I could have done something wrong with the clutch fork so I dropped the trans again. Nothing strange so I put it back up. Same result. Since I used all the same parts including the bellhousing how can this be happening? I had a great clutch before the swap where it would grab halfway up the pedal travel. What am I missing?

 

Joe

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I swapped out the T5 that was behind my L6 for one that had less miles because mine was very noisey, worn bearings. I used the same bell housing, clutch fork and throwout bearing but somehow lost the ability to release the clutch. It does not disengage completely nit allowig me to get the car into gear. I thought I could have done something wrong with the clutch fork so I dropped the trans again. Nothing strange so I put it back up. Same result. Since I used all the same parts including the bellhousing how can this be happening? I had a great clutch before the swap where it would grab halfway up the pedal travel. What am I missing?

 

Joe

 

You must've tinkered with the shifting rods in the trans. I see that you removed the bellhousing, so you probably pushed one in slightly trying to line it up with the bellhousing. Pull the trans off of the engine and see if it will shift into all gears just sitting on the floor. If that's the case, you must pull the bellhousing and make sure the ends of all three rods are pretty much even with each other. They have an out, middle and in position and you need 'em all in the middle position. IIRC the one on the passenger end of the row (of three rods) is the one that is usually the culprit.

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Edit, Just went back and re-read widowblacks comments... It's possible, but I'd still try bleeding the clutch before you drop it again.

 

Rags, it's possible that you'll need to rebleed the clutch slave... Try that first. You may have introduced air past the pushrod on the slave. I had this happen years ago, and it drove me nuts.

 

Mike

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I guess I should have mentioned that I have no problem shilfting the trans as long as the motoe isn't running. I can engage all 6 gears. I can also start the car while in gear. Depressing the clutch doesn't fully disengage the engine from the driveline.

 

Mike,

 

I thought the same thing and did bleed the clutch again. No bubbles. Maybe I rushed through it so I'll try it again.

 

I'm just looking to confirm my thinking. If I use the same bellhousing, fork, throwout beaing and collar and clutch itself, there is no chance I could have changed the clutch geometry, correct?

 

Joe

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This one drove me crazy but the clutch is now working. 5 times in and out! Being as stubborn as I am, I just couldn't see how the clutch geometry changed so I took the trans out and looked at the pilot bearing as Mike suggested. All fine there. I then measured how far past the bellhousing the input stuck out and compared that to the old trans. Both the same. Loosened the trans to engine bolts and checked the clutch. It worked! So now I was sure the input shaft pilot bearing was the problem. I come to find that where the inbut shaft goes from the small diameter that goes into the pilot bearing ramps up to the larger diameter is different between both input shafts. 1/16" different but that's all it took.Now to push the pilot bearing in a little further.

Credit were credit is due. Mikelly you nailed it!

 

 

Joe

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