Can z struts be modified for wider tires

[Guest TAlchemist]

everyone seems to say the same thing in every post, but my question is can you get say wider tires by using custom wheels to move the tire outwards.

 

i want nice wide rear end and big fender flares. Without changing the rear springs at all couldnt you just get the perfect backspacing to accomidate the perch?

[Mike kZ]

Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ:

A bigger and wider tire does not necessarily translate into better traction, especially in drag racing. After Montgomery, a few folks here will testify to that. I believe MikeKZ is running 295s and he blew them away easily.

Yep, I thought with 295s I would have more rubber on the street for better traction, nope, I spun all the way down the track! Next time slicks baby!

[Cable]

Digging up an old thread, but I wondered if anyone had sucessfully stuffed a 275/50/15 tire under a stock wheel opening (no flares or outside body mods).

 

I am getting ready to order my coilover's and will get the 8" springs for the rear, the fender lip will be rolled, and I am having custom steel wheels made (Nissan 4 lug, 15x8, 5" BS).

 

I would like to run 275/50/15 rear tires and just wanted to see if anyone had done it in the last two years.

 

 

Thanks guys!!!

[blueovalz]

I know I'll get barbequed on this one, but here is something I've had in the back of my mind, but never fully pursued the idea. Obviously this is something that I conjured up in an attempt to fabricate a suspension that would allow a deep wheel, OEM rear differential and modified OEM arms and such, and allow me to express myself with the tools and welder in my garage. Basically, it's a, "lets see if I can do this, regardless of other options" idea. My brainstorm was to cut the strut tube short, weld a bracket on top to receive a ball joint for an upper control arm, and then fabricate the reinforcement and inner mounting for the upper control arm. Then run a strut from a point inboard of the OEM strut location on the lower control arm, up through the upper control arm, and into the strut tower (where the angular difference would need to be addressed). It was more a study in engineering and of "how different can I get this and still have a suspension based on OEM parts. In the drawing below, (not to scale) I've tried to illustrate my concept. The dark heavy lines (box) are the inner circumference of the wheel showing a max OEM backspacing (dashed line) and a new modified backspacing (heavy solid line). The gray areas are the new additions to the suspension and the dashed lines on the OEM strut tube are the removed portions. With proper accounting for basic suspension geometry and proper reinforcement, I believe this to be a viable option for the masochist in all of us. Presented for your entertainment:

 

[A. G. Olphart]

If a person didn't use a stirrup on the bottom of the new shock (to straddle the half shaft/center the shock) there would seem to be a pretty good bending moment/angular twist induced at the lower shock attachment point.

 

Cute idea, now all we need is the correct dimensions (geometry) for good handling.

[ZROSSA]

Or......You could aways use some rocker arms or push rods and put the shock anyhwre you wanted it . You would also remove the bending load in the middle of the botom arm. Then the inside of the wheel well would be you restriction.

 

Douglas

[260DET]

Can't see why it wouldn't work, Terry. Don't the later model IRS Nissans such as Z32's, S14's, Skylines etc have a looped top suspension arm? The arm has a circular center, the circular part drops over the shock or whatever is back there.

 

What you are proposing will change the scrub radius of course. For better or worse I wouldn't know.

 

The geometry is going to be similar to that of a double A-arm suspension setup, unequal length by the look of it. Lots of things to consider there