Jump to content
HybridZ

Another $50 paint job


trwebb26

Recommended Posts

And how much is that compressor going to cost you to use that hvlp gun? Hope you dont try and save money and get some little 5-10 gallon tank compressor, Youll be stopping every 10 minutes while that tiny tank fills back up- Have fun keeping that hvlp gun clean from gunking up in the down time. And youll still need to color sand between each coat if you want good resutls.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been using Rustoleum for years and I have painted 10 or so cars with inexpensive paint from the local paint stores. From experiance, Rustoleum is Much stronger than the Nasan brand or any inexpensive paint store paint. Alot less expensive too. Never painted them with a proller tho. Only thing is low color options and no metal flake. The last car I painted with Rustoleum was a 65 Plymouth Sport Fury convertable Indy Pace Car. only 33 of those made. Sold it for $30,000. If the guy that bought it would haver known it was Rustoleum he would have had a fit, he owned a paint and body shop and was very impresses with the finish. Enough to buy the car.

Rustoleum= great paint

PPG= Excellent paint, but better have alot of $

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much does it cost to rent a compressor for a day or two? I know at least three friends that have compressors that they would be willing to lend to me for a day or two locally. The point is, that all the time spent sanding and buffing a roller job could be used to mow lawns to earn enough money to buy/rent decent painting equipment. (mow lawns was just a figure of speech). To each their own, OTOH.

 

The corvair does look nice in the photos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i JUST did my 7th coat on my car and it looks pretty damn good even with out wet sanding.. i think i might need 2 more coats because ive been still sanding through on some of my corners... if i was to do it again i would do 3 coats at a time in between wetsanding to give you a little more base so you dont wetsand through it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

whats the proper technique of wetsanding?? do you use a spray bottle or a hose?? do you roll the paper in to a tube and sand with it or just lay it flat in the palm of your hand or do you wrap the paper around a foam block?? I'm almost sold on it.

 

I used foam blocks, it worked better than just sand paper rolled.

 

If you are considering doing it with rollers, be prepared to spend A LOT of time on wet sanding. I'm planning on spending around 15 man hours on the final wet sand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For those of you that have painted your car / are painting your car:

- What brand / kind of paint did you use

- What color did you chose?

- I'd love to see pictures

- Did you paint the jambs first - or last? What method did you use to paint the jambs (spray on, brush on, ?)

- Do you have any tips for somebody who wants to start this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For those of you that have painted your car / are painting your car:

- What brand / kind of paint did you use

- What color did you chose?

- I'd love to see pictures

- Did you paint the jambs first - or last? What method did you use to paint the jambs (spray on, brush on, ?)

- Do you have any tips for somebody who wants to start this?

 

-I used Tremclad, I believe the US equivalent of that is Rustoleom (sp?)

-I chose white, my car was already white but in rough shape.

-I'm not finished yet, but below is a pic I took of the roof just to see what it would look like polished.

-I used brush and did it last.

-Tips, prepare to spend LOTS of time on wet sanding and use lots of light when painting, my first few coats were in darker conditions and came out really bad.

 

260Polished2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Crispy Chicken

I think anyone here that really knows anything at all about refinishing work. Knows cheap can be expensive!! Quality products is an investment!!! Too much time an effort is spent refinishing cars. If you really think you are going get a long lasting quality paint for 50 bucks your dead wrong. It doesn't matter how it looks at first. You can spend 50-200 bucks on one stage crap 400-500 on duPont or diamont system or 800-1000 on standox or glasurit. You can make them all look good. Even though one stage crap will never look as good as a 2-3 stage system. The question is how often do you want to paint your car once a year, every 5-10 years or one time in your life. Every project and situation is completely different. In some cases the 50 dollar paint job might sever its propose.

 

If your really putting a lot of time and effort into your car and want everything to be really nice. Cheap crap paint is the wrong way to go. Some people spend 300-500 hours on their project cars restoration type work. I'm in the process right now in refinishing my 1996 impala SS. Taking every thing apart and to bare metal. Doing it the right way. I might spend 50-60 hours before I even reach the spray booth. Why the hell would I use cheap crap paint to save a few hundred bucks and have my paint fad crack and fall off in a few years. After all that work.. Might as well buy some refurbished car tires and some window tint from walmart. I'll save SOO much money dude!!!! Something to think about.

 

Derek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think anyone here that really knows anything at all about refinishing work. Knows cheap can be expensive!! Quality products is an investment!!! Too much time an effort is spent refinishing cars. If you really think you are going get a long lasting quality paint for 50 bucks your dead wrong. It doesn't matter how it looks at first. You can spend 50-200 bucks on one stage crap 400-500 on duPont or diamont system or 800-1000 on standox or glasurit. You can make them all look good. Even though one stage crap will never look as good as a 2-3 stage system. The question is how often do you want to paint your car once a year, every 5-10 years or one time in your life. Every project and situation is completely different. In some cases the 50 dollar paint job might sever its propose.

 

If your really putting a lot of time and effort into your car and want everything to be really nice. Cheap crap paint is the wrong way to go. Some people spend 300-500 hours on their project cars restoration type work. I'm in the process right now in refinishing my 1996 impala SS. Taking every thing apart and to bare metal. Doing it the right way. I might spend 50-60 hours before I even reach the spray booth. Why the hell would I use cheap crap paint to save a few hundred bucks and have my paint fad crack and fall off in a few years. After all that work.. Might as well buy some recycled car tires and some window tint from walmart. I'll save SOO much money dude!!!! Something to think about.

 

Derek

 

The way i see it is i never EVER plan to keep a car more than 2-5 years. I used the one stage acrylic enamel paint because i know they last quite a long time. I sold a car that i painted 10 years ago and the paint is still nice, not bad for one stage crap huh. Its all in the prep work. I know there are some garbage paints out there, and no matter how much prep is put in they still dont last. There are guys on this site that dont have the cash, or just dont want to spend the money on the high end paints. They want to put there money into the engine and suspension. I myself don't see the need for me to ever use the brush on or roll on methods because i have been painting for quite some time and even done it for a living at a fruehauf truck dealer for a few years. I need to know the paint has a catalyst and wont fade after a year in the sun here in las vegas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Derek and Jim both make good points. The way I see it, those who are spending $50 on paint may not have the additional resources to put into the project. The paint job on my car was done no less than 20 years ago. www.cardomain.com/ride/2886421/1 Not exactly sure what they used, but DuPont Imron is my best guess. I can tell you that there was a lot of prep work that went into it, from flares to frenched antenna, and it looks as good up close as at a distance. No doubt, good prep work will take you a long way, and that is true whether you're painting a house, a car, or anything. I have to say I have been impressed with the stuff I have seen on this thread. I agree somewhat with Big Jim about what to use if you're only planning on limited time of ownership, but I would have to say that when it comes to one of these cars, maybe use of better materials will keep more of these around (in good shape) for a longer time...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I actually just did a roller job using Rustoleum paint last winter on my SE-R. Couple points to make.

-Prep work is critical. If you don't have a good surface to put the paint on, how are you going to have a nice final product?

-Be prepared to spend a LOT of time. I think I had close to 100 hours of labor in mine and it was far from perfect. Between all the various coats, wet sanding, prep, taping, cleaning, polishing, waxing, it took almost a month (life gets in the way of projects like this).

-Prep work is very important. You're going to be up close and personal with this car. I can't tell you how many times I saw a flaw in a panel I was working on and I had wished I had taken care of it. This was despite the fact that I wasn't even trying to get a show-car finish and just wanted something better than oxidized paint and surface rust in areas.

-Pick up a spare fender, hook, or other random body part with some decent surface area and practice on that before you start painting your car. That will allow you to learn the technique, get your mixture right, and make sure you're ready to undertake the whole project.

-It is cheap. I think I spent less than $100 for all of my supplies including paint, sand paper, mineral spirits, rollers, and a cheap hand sander (not for wet sanding, used on my prep and clearing some surface rust). Your time is the big cost here.

-One more time, prep work. After doing this to my own car, I firmly believe that the key to any paint job, whether it's rolling Rustoleum, or spraying on a color-change metal flake, the most important part is doing the prep work thoroughly and correctly.

-It really is worth it to pull off all of the trim peices, lights, molding, etc. It may seem like a hassle and unnecessary, but it will make your life so much easier when painting and sanding, and you will reduce the risk of getting paint accidentally on the part. I know there's several parts that I wish I had taken off...

 

I was pleased with my results, but it wasn't worth my time. It was a very interesting experience and I learned a lot but on my next job I will definitely be using my compressor, a homemade booth, and a gun. I'll also focus on getting my prep work perfect rather than hoping multiple coats will remedy tiny flaws.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Crispy chicken, I have to admit your post bothered me a little. Im not sure why, maybe its just the wording you used? Though i will admit i highly respect the effort youre trying to put into your project. I just want to say the "hard" (lengthy, expensive, extravicant, whatever) way isnt always the better way. And while cheap crappy paint may be just cheap crappy paint, its important to point out that not all things "cheap" are "crappy".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...