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Anyone Have Pics of a Re-Drilled Mustache Bar?


Cable

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Just like the title says.....

 

I searched for sometime and wasn't able to find any pics of a stock R200 mustache bar re-drilled (4.75" spacing) for the short nose Q45 R200.

 

Basically I just wanna see if the holes are just drilled alittle more spaced out and level with the stock holes, or are the new holes drilled higher, etc?

 

I know that the Q45 R200 has to be spaced forward a bit to keep the rear cover from rubbing on the muctache bar, but that's no biggie.

 

I considered just buying the AZC mustache bar, but I think I could put the $250+ to use else where and just re-use my stock bar. Regardless, it is a awesome piece.

 

Thanks guys!!

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Just like the title says.....

 

I searched for sometime and wasn't able to find any pics of a stock R200 mustache bar re-drilled (4.75" spacing) for the short nose Q45 R200.

 

Basically I just wanna see if the holes are just drilled alittle more spaced out and level with the stock holes, or are the new holes drilled higher, etc?

Thanks guys!!

 

I drilled one and the holes were on the same plane as the stock just a little wider. For washers I used large diameter hardened plate washers so a large area on the mustache bar was grabbed once the diff was tightened down.

 

The mustache bar is hardened and I had to use a cobalt drill bit to drill it.

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Cable you have bad timing, I was home this weekend you coulda checked mine out. This is the only picture i have of mine, and the date covers most of it up unfortunately. Should give enough of an idea.....

 

100_0696.jpg

 

Tyson

 

No problem Tyson.

 

Do you already have a front mount made? If so, I'd like to see that too and copy/clone it.

 

Let me know the next time you'll be home.

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No front mount made. I'll be getting rid of the one I have as I bought the AZ-Z car rear mustache. Still kinda at a loss for how to do the front mount and not really at a point for fabricating it either.

 

Tyson

 

I got an idea, give me the stock, re-drilled mustache bar. And when I fab my front mount, I'll just make two of them and give you the extra one.

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I realize this has been done and will continue to be done, but I wanted to throw in my $.02 as I see drilling ANY holes in the mustache bar of a high powered Z car a bad idea.

 

I redrilled my R-200 mustache bar for my V-8 280-Z when I raised the mounting position of the R-200 in my car, and on the test drive, only a mere few miles from the house, “lightly” playing, the mustache bar broke in half through the original diff holes, thus dropping the back of the diff. I was able to limp it back home with the half shafts rubbing on the control arms. I then built an adapter that bolted to the mustache bar utilizing the original holes using a steel plate for the diff to attach to. Never had an issue after that with over 15,000 abusive miles including 4th gear stomp and dump burnouts with the Lincoln Locker R-200. Pictured below is that abused mustache bar and adaptor after it has been sitting in the spare tire well of a parts car for a few years, hence the rust. It used to look nice, grey and black.

 

Moral of the story… Drilling the mustache bar substantially weakens it and if you are installing an R-230 for its strength qualities, you really should have a new mustache bar or rear plate built, or at least an adapter that bolts to the mustache bar that doesn’t require drilling the mustache bar. A drilled R-200 Mustache bar WILL break before an R-180 would bust, let alone the R-230 or even the bullet proof long nose R-200, i.e., the R-230 is doing you know good if the mustache bar wont hold.

 

Here is a picture I just took of that adaptor mustache bar and adaptor. Something similar could be built for the R-230 and using the poly mustache bar bushings, or a combination of the OE rubber and Poly mustache bar bushings, the mustache bar can be raised or lowered depending on how high/low you want the diff mounted in the car and how the bushings are trimmed, stacked, etc.

Sorry, no pics of the original busted mustache bar.

 

Mount1Medium.jpg

 

Mount2Medium.jpg

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Edit..

 

Sorry fellas, I stand corrected. I just found where COZY Z COLE used the drilled method for his R-230 conversion and filled the old holes back in.

 

My point is, if you drill, at least fill the old holes back in.

 

100_0785.JPG

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I realize this has been done and will continue to be done, but I wanted to throw in my $.02 as I see drilling ANY holes in the mustache bar of a high powered Z car a bad idea.

 

I redrilled my R-200 mustache bar for my V-8 280-Z when I raised the mounting position of the R-200 in my car, and on the test drive, only a mere few miles from the house, “lightly†playing, the mustache bar broke in half through the original diff holes, thus dropping the back of the diff. I was able to limp it back home with the half shafts rubbing on the control arms. I then built an adapter that bolted to the mustache bar utilizing the original holes using a steel plate for the diff to attach to. Never had an issue after that with over 15,000 abusive miles including 4th gear stomp and dump burnouts with the Lincoln Locker R-200. Pictured below is that abused mustache bar and adaptor after it has been sitting in the spare tire well of a parts car for a few years, hence the rust. It used to look nice, grey and black.

 

Moral of the story… Drilling the mustache bar substantially weakens it and if you are installing an R-230 for its strength qualities, you really should have a new mustache bar or rear plate built, or at least an adapter that bolts to the mustache bar that doesn’t require drilling the mustache bar. A drilled R-200 Mustache bar WILL break before an R-180 would bust, let alone the R-230 or even the bullet proof long nose R-200, i.e., the R-230 is doing you know good if the mustache bar wont hold.

 

Here is a picture I just took of that adaptor mustache bar and adaptor. Something similar could be built for the R-230 and using the poly mustache bar bushings, or a combination of the OE rubber and Poly mustache bar bushings, the mustache bar can be raised or lowered depending on how high/low you want the diff mounted in the car and how the bushings are trimmed, stacked, etc.

Sorry, no pics of the original busted mustache bar.

 

Mount1Medium.jpg

 

Mount2Medium.jpg

 

 

that is a great idea!

that can also take care of the spacer that is needed for the r230.

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I got an idea, give me the stock, re-drilled mustache bar. And when I fab my front mount, I'll just make two of them and give you the extra one.

 

Sounds like a plan to me. I might be back in town again this weekend to exchange cars. If i do I'll give you a call so you can pick it up.

 

Tyson

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Just like the title says.....

 

I searched for sometime and wasn't able to find any pics of a stock R200 mustache bar re-drilled (4.75" spacing) for the short nose Q45 R200.

 

Basically I just wanna see if the holes are just drilled alittle more spaced out and level with the stock holes, or are the new holes drilled higher, etc?

 

I know that the Q45 R200 has to be spaced forward a bit to keep the rear cover from rubbing on the muctache bar, but that's no biggie.

 

I considered just buying the AZC mustache bar, but I think I could put the $250+ to use else where and just re-use my stock bar. Regardless, it is a awesome piece.

 

Thanks guys!!

 

Cable, In your car 250 for the AZC mbar is money very well spent. Just do it, you'll be so glad you did. For god sakes man you have a have 454! Even filling the holes and adding material might be fine but in my opinion the stock mbars still have WAY to much unwanted flex. Whatever front mount you come up with having a more rigid mbar will help it last longer and reduce driveline angle variations under load.

Brian

HPIM0179.JPG

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Cable I haven't had any time to run over there. I was home for Thanksgiving day only then had to run back for school work. I'll be able to be out there for sure after the 18th of Dec when I'm out of school. Finals and crunch time right now. Sorry for the delay,

 

Tyson

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