Jump to content
HybridZ

Any "Cheap Car Challenge" build Ideas?


Recommended Posts

I'm setting my '82ZX up for a "Cheap Car Challenge" against some guys on a local tuner site. $1500 limit including purchase and mods, then we're going to have different events next June including drag strip, autocross, show and shine, driveability along with best gas mileage etc. Safety items like $250 for tires, stock replacement brake parts, and stock replacement steering parts don't count in the totals. So far I've only got around $350 into the car including purchace, seat covers, steering wheel cover, and rear floor carpet. We also get extra points if we don't spend the full $1500. Is there a noticeable power increase with the 60mm throttle body, port matched intake and a header on an otherwise stock engine? I'm getting ready looking for a junkyard throttle body and header now, but I don't want to run up my modifications total on parts that make me lose power, or don't make any improvements. I thought about doing a L28et swap, but I can't afford it right now, since I only work in the summertime (not to mention the local junkyards are highly over priced). I also plan on doing a more expensive swap next summer after the Challenge thing, once my paychecks start comming in again, so swapping now would just be double work. Any ideas for other cheap/free mods that show a real improvement? I thought about having my flywheel lightened to help it free up some response. Right now the car runs nearly perfect, it just runs like a stock '82 280ZX 5 speed lol. Since the Challenge is a bunch of tuner kids, some of them are doing ebay purchased engine swaps. One kid got a steal on a Toyota V8 off E-bay that he's planning on stuffing into a first generation Celica for the Challenge. I've been kicking around the nitrous idea to help on the drag strip, any thoughts on the most affordable dependable wet system available? I don't really expect to win the drag racing portion, or the show and shine, but I should do fairly well in the ride and handling events, and might actually win the gas mileage event (I'm getting around 30-32mpg right now). So give me some of your thoughts, ideas, or past cheap mod results

Link to comment
Share on other sites

drop a couple hundred on a set of Tokico shocks and springs... 2 inch drop PHENOMENAL increase in handling and it only rides a little bit stiffer than stock, DEFINATLY still daily drive-able

 

HEADLIGHT covers, won't really increase performance on the drags or autoX but I've heard from a couple S-130 owners that just the covers will get you another 2-3 mpg on highway driving (I've got a pair but gotta get mine back together before I can tell if theres a difference)

 

alot of people will tell you the 240SX 60Mm throttle body is the way to go... possibly my next mod.

 

headers can be had fairly cheap, definatly will make a difference.

should you decide to go with a cam (not sure on cost) if the cam is too big for the stock fuel system you can run a turbo pump and turbo injectors OR turbo pump and hot wire the cold start fuel injector to fire along with the #1 (I've done it... it helps but still not perfect)

 

I went with header and cam on mine and picked up almost 2 seconds at the quarter mile (still only a 14.2) I still didn't have enough fuel to the cam I have and was expiriencing lean out around 4200rpms so theres alot more yet to be had.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

turbo swap it....

Buy a used turbo and manifold, and injectors then tighten up the spring in the maf.... run 12 psi.... and there you go.. pretty close to 100 hp over the stock na... (with intake and an exhaust included) and should be had for about 350 if you can weld and get a stock used turbo..........

 

drop springs, shocks, and bushings are good chunk at about 500 for all theres

850 + 350 (for the purchase) hitting the 1200 mark... leaving you with 300 to spare....

spend that on the bling and shine and you may clean sweep it...

 

also if you score awsome deals and know people..

turbo (good used) 50$

turbo manifold(from same person ++) Add 20 to the turbo and maybe he'd throw it in Also to get more boost for under 5$ get a spring and attatch it externaly to the wastegate..(look it up google

 

find yourself a local garage with a kid and a pipe bender and get a crush bent(yeah not mandrel) for 75$

and get him to bend you a cold air.. 10?

155 for a turbo upgradeof 100hp approx...

as for the suspention 120 for shocks.. and clamp your springs (not a lot 1" drop

so now 305 dollars are spent....

complete ignition (coil plugs wires cap rotor)

120

so the total is now..545

plus 350

giving a total of 895....

now you gotta get a boost gauge (35$) an a/f ratio gauge (35$) and an voltmeter gauge(30$) that all match and put them in you center gauge cluster for another 100$ and it would add to the bling and able to monitor

raising the grand total to 1,000....

so theres the ultimate junk yard equation for power to dllar value.....

 

hell throw in drilled and slotted rotors at 150... bling and stopping power.

 

 

any way good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Megasquirt it, turbo,(unless cheap SBC are to be found) rustolem paint, dash cap?. These could fit under "saftey" race brake pads, brake flush, tokio struts/ springs, cage (bling), harness( needs new seat to work), bushings. I'd skip the headers, throttle body, unless you have a cam and lots of head work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the responses, a turbo isn't likely going to happen around here unfortunately. All the local junk yards are highly overpriced, and won't seperate a turbo manifold from the engine, they want to sell the entire engine instead for around $1500+. I think my only option for now is probably going to be to shave the head to bump the compression a bit, then change the springs and struts. I know I'll lose the drag race portion of the challenge, but if I do anything to improve the already decent handling it already has,and make it look better with a cheap paint job, I should do well in the rest of the competition. I think I already have the ride and handling pretty secure, along with the gas mileage test (30-32mpg right now). I'm hoping to do a RB swap next Aug or Sep, after I get my summer paychecks comming in again, then I'll hit the other guys up for a rematch lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may want to look into ebay.. You should easily be able to get a turbo manifold, stock turbo, and injectors for a good price... Probably under 300 total.... Put it on with a little luck in about 5 hours, and tighten the afm as I mentioned before and tune that with a/f ratio (preferably wide band but a little 35-40 dollar meter will work if need be) and for about $300 and a little seat time you should have a boosted z car... external spring the wastegate and wammo you'll win the hp part......(as in the drags)

But either way.. (I'm gonna rag on you lol everybody on everything needs turbo... rigs to weed eaters boost is better... lol )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

he is talking about something local...

 

there is a 2k limited challeng put on by Grassroots Racing Magazine I plan on entering next year... I'll look for links for info later...

 

as for boost... its over-rated. I was running just almost as quick with my full interior'd n/a car with exhaust and cam as I was running with my GUTTED turbo running 12lbs (granted it was a half-ass tune) and the N/A is far better suited for autoX purposes since theres NO lag

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dropped over a 1.4 seconds off the quarter on the same car just dropping in a stock turbo engine with standalone on stock boost. And I blew my headgasket on that run (due to a dying fuel pump).

 

Its running so much better now with a new fuel pump and a nice fuel map. I should be able to break 13s now on stock boost with launch control that I'm adding soon (MegaLogviewer is computing about 220 wheel HP, car is fully stripped).

 

If this is just some tunaz mad jdm tyte yo crowd you might stand a chance. Otherwise I think an NA full bodied ZX is going to get stomped on, considering how much cheaper it is to make a little CRX go fast. That and so far your mod list includes seat and a steering wheel cover.

 

I'm out! Good luck!

Mario

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That and so far your mod list includes seat and a steering wheel cover.

 

I'm out! Good luck!

Mario

lol I already bought the seat covers and steering wheel cover long before the idea of the Challenge came about. This is my daily driver in the summer, so yes I bought some seat covers to hide the worn out stock seats.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boost... over rated???

sorry to rape the thread here..

 

But seriously... Boost over rated...

Go get in a quick car...(na) then get a boost kit and run 5 psi.... holy difference... car was 200 hp.. now its close to 260... run 15 psi .... wow close to 370...............

 

but your right boost is over rated...lol

 

I love my boosted bottle fed 280zx......lol....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Who is doing the judging and what do they value?

 

Hard to imagine a V8 swap for under $1500. Make sure you check that guys' receipts carefully.

 

The Owner and moderators of the local site are supposed to verify reciepts to get the cost totals, anything that really seems way off like a RB26DETT swap purchased for $500 complete or something exotic like that would be obvious. Most people that have bought engines from E-Bay have posted the E-bay link to verify they were bidding on it and what their winning bid was. Supposedly they are going to have a few of the guys girlfriends or other women judge the cars as far as ride comfort, and looks. The mileage will be tested by filling all the cars up until they can't take any more gas, then doing a group drive, then filling again. PErformance events wil recieve a official time slip, so other than the show and shine, and ride comfort part, the rest would be hard to cheat. This is just for fun anyways, and most of the people on the site have been friends for at least a couple of years, so there is some trust involved..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember a sbc 280zx taking a high place in a GRM competition, Granted not easy, and would take a lot of luck. For example, my U-Pull-it sells engines for $150. I'm very close to telling myself the bmw v12 is do able for that kind of money.

 

You should get clear definitions of what will be allowed under "safety". That could account for alot of performance modifactions. I would try for tires, struts, springs, bushings, brakes, maybe headlights?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They have the full rules on the local website, tires are considered a safety item, same as stock brakes, and suspension parts. We're allowed up to $250 for tires before they start deducting from our totals. Aftermarket springs and adjustable shocks would be deducted, but junk yard stockers probably wouldn't. New rubber bushings are not counted, but Poly bushings most likely would be. Same for stock brakes, no charge, but larger vented rotors and bigger aftermarket calipers would. I've got until June to finalize my gameplan and git-r-done, I may just hit the junkyard and find a 5.0 and either a C4 or AOD to shoehorn in to it lol. I know a whole lot more about the Ford Small block's than I could ever learn about the stock l28 anyways, and parts would be cheaper and easier to find. I could get decent hp with just a cam, intake, carb, homemade exhaust, and electronic ignition. The right combo should get me to the high 12-low 13 second range. If I can find a decent engine at the U-Pull-It yard here, I would guess the entire swap with mods would run me about $750 complete, and would take about 2-3 weeks so I still have plenty of time. (so much for the gas mileage test lol).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

treat an L28 with the same treatment you would the 302 and it should get you to the 12-13s. there are some goodies like cams and such availible at http://www.arizonazcar.com/ technically they're for a 280 Z but its the same engine... theres also an intake to mount a Holley 390 4brl carb onto her... the intake is reasonably cheap for being what it is, but the cams are a little steaper...

 

go with parts like that, have the head shaved a bit maybe and a pair of headers and that thing will act more like a muscle car than anyone gives em credit for.

 

with nothing more than an oversized cam,headers,and hollowing the cat. my car went from a 16.3 1/4 to a 14.2 (WITH a tire fryin 2.9 60')

Link to comment
Share on other sites

really... what you want is some triple webers. A four barrel and manifold would be adequate, but inappropriate in this reporters opinion.

 

BARRING THAT, if you wanna stick with an NA beast, you have to bear one thing in mind: the biggest limitation on the Stock EFI system, regarding airflow, is the intake manifold runners. There are tweaks and mods that you can do, like adjusting the AFM, or installing a potentiometer into your coolant temp sensor circuit to artificially "enrich" the mixture, but without getting more air in there you are stuck. Also, almost all of these things are ideas that were conceived back in the 80's when most of us do-it-yourself gearheads knew next to nothing about fuel injection, and they are really hacks, not proper mods. If you could get a camshaft and triple webers, you would be looking at an extra 50 horses easily. Personally, I would just gut your cat and leave the exhaust on it, and do your best to get triples on the cheap. That, and 80 bucks for some suspension bushings, and maybe some new strut cartridges or if you can still afford it, springs too, ought to do you.

 

Can you REMOVE stuff from the car? the 280ZX ought to have a good 200 pounds of crap you can pull to make it lighter, if you can get at it all. The bad news is, that 200 pounds is in about 200 different parts and pieces, so it is ALL a question of nickel and dime work to lower the weight.. but my current understanding is that, if you want to talk about FULL RACE STRIPPED CHASSIS comparison, 280ZX is NOT much heavier than 280Z if at all.. so any weight difference can be recovered. It certainly wont compare to a 1970 240Z, but its something to think about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree 100% that tripple webbers are the way to go with N/A... but they are quite a bit more expensive and harder to find than the Arizona intake and a holly 4 barrel, and typically a ford 5.0 guy would know where to come across a carb for next to nothing. ;)

 

I myself am looking for a set of tripple webbers but unfortunatly I currently lack the kind of funds necessary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...