Careless Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 sounds like a perfect match Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 Note: When you check your sensor, be sure to not touch both ends as your meter will be swayed by your body closing the circuit. On top of that, try not to touch the sensor itself as they are very sensitive and your body temp heating it up will give you a reading for a different temp and it probably won't stabilize. When I tested mine in water I also had to be sure not to let either touch the pan or let the water complete the circuit either on the test leads or across the sensors themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Mike, I'm assuming when you said ohms, you meant in thousands? The larger one with the plastic sleeve is (I'm pretty sure) the one for the ecu. There were two sensors, one for the ecu and one solely for the gauge on the dash. The ecu one has two small leads instead of just one large, right? - yes exactly, so I think you are correct I put my z sensor and the 240sx sensor on the stove today. At room temp they read identically, 330ohms or something like that, and at 180F they read about 45ohms, - so sounds like you have the correct one and I dont. Can you tell me what the Nissan Part No is for the 240sx please mate and also does it have a number stamped into the actual sensor? (see above where I mention 7H & 9L) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 I didn't get a genuine nissan part, but FAST shows the correct sensor starts with 25080. For the s13 it's 25080-89903 and for the s14 it's 25080-89907 so you could start from there (I'm not sure if there's a difference or not). I'll look to see if mine has a stamp like yours but since it's not nissan it might not have either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Ah that may be the problem as you are using the S13 number sensor and the one I have lines up with what you quote as the S14 sensor (25080-89907). Looks like I will have to take it back and exchange for Part No 25080-89903. Thanks mate, that must be the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Cross Referencing Europe: Cross Referencing Japan: Cross Referencing USA (I think my FAST is screwed up): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd just for the record. I'll mention it's the exact same one I posted earlier in the thread, and here's the pic again It's weird how the digital dash in my z31 uses the same sensor. Most digital dashes use a different sensor for certain things like Oil Pressure and blah blah blah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 There's no denying you're the parts man now. I forgot that you put the p/n in that picture. How do you get FAST to do all that crossreferencing? If I do alt part search or anything like that nothing ever comes up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 There's no denying you're the parts man now. I forgot that you put the p/n in that picture. How do you get FAST to do all that crossreferencing? If I do alt part search or anything like that nothing ever comes up. - Load "FAST MENU" - Nfmenu.exe - Click on "FAST System" - Choose the Region CD that you want to load (JP, GL, EL) - When loaded, go back to "FAST MENU" - Nfmenu.exe - Click on "Parts Master" - Take the part number and enter it in the respectively named input field, remove any spaces from the end if there are any (it will say: NUMBER IS MISSING) - Hit "SEARCH" and wait about 10 seconds if it's something that has a long list like the Temp Gauge Sensor. Start from beginning and repeat the process for each CD you load, as it does not search all of them together. This is true even if you have "Multiple Screens" checked off in the "Nfset.exe" setup tab named "ALL", so you must do it for each region. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted October 27, 2008 Author Share Posted October 27, 2008 Ah, I've never even used the parts master app. I was hoping it would give alternate p/n's for the same physical part, but I guess it's just other car models to look up with that same number. In retrospect I suppose for any car with this sensor it probably wouldn't matter which engine you searched because ideally they would make all the options have the same sensor, otherwise they would have to have several different gauges as well for that same model year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 Ah, I've never even used the parts master app. I was hoping it would give alternate p/n's for the same physical part, but I guess it's just other car models to look up with that same number. In retrospect I suppose for any car with this sensor it probably wouldn't matter which engine you searched because ideally they would make all the options have the same sensor, otherwise they would have to have several different gauges as well for that same model year. well the thing is, you can't really just search for the item based on engines. you'd have to load up every car for that. one by one. some cars do have a different gauge and would require a different part/number as well. how knows. nissan is weird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthZ Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 J I had a '91 240SX KA24DE on an eng stand' date=' and sure enough the sensor matched size and style. Taking a multi-meter to it, it had the same resistance at ambient temp and the orig Z sensor. Stealth Z - Can you remember, or retest what the resistance was on the original and your replacement sensor to see if it matches the numbers we got above?[/quote'] That should be no problem. Wed is my next day off that I would have time to do that. I am pretty sure I have another KA24DE motor somewhere, so I'll see if I can get some side-by-side tests done with the orig 280Z sensor at ambient and running temp. FWIW, I have only driven it a dozen times or so since install, but the temp gauge really seems to behave like normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 that would be great Steve, just for comparison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted October 29, 2008 Author Share Posted October 29, 2008 The water pump I got isn't exactly the right shape after all. All the rb26 "oem replacement" pump on ebay have a slotted bolt hole at the top (the one that the smallest bold goes into), but this makes the shape of the housing just short of hitting the block right on the edge of the hole. When I filled it with coolant again the other day, it was leaking out of that sloted hole and I assumed the gasket right there failed because it is a very narrow spot in the housing face. However, when I took it off today I saw that there was a definitive border following the shape of the engine block where the gasket didn't even smash down when I put the pump on, and that line passes right over the corner of the bolt slot. I peeled off the buildup of silicone and you can see said border in the following picture. I figure I'll have to weld up that hole and redrill the bolthole for it to be able to seal properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted October 30, 2008 Author Share Posted October 30, 2008 We'll see. The crappy photo doesn't do it justice but you get the idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 good stuff. it's pretty clear to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 It's hunting big time and running richer than gates. My first thought was to unplug the mafs, unplugging the rear didn't do anything, unplugging the front made it even right out. Testing the ground wire on the plug and it's a no-go. Either I wrongfully assumed that the wires for the front plug were colored the same as the wires for the rear, or the ground wire doesn't actually go where it should, so I'll take a closer look at that tomorrow. It's not speilberg but you get the idea. firststart1 firststart2 roughhunting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NESS89 Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 cant wait to see it runnin on the street. sounds like a beast even running rough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted November 4, 2008 Author Share Posted November 4, 2008 Hopefully very very soon. The anticipation is killing me. The maf wiring was the problem though. It's running much smoother now, still a little rich, but there is a bit of a misfire. Adjusting the cas a few degrees didn't seem to make any difference (I was always curious what that would do). Tomorrow I have some free time so I'll start from the simplest and work down the list of severities. Hopefully the problem is near the top of the list. I ran it so rich yesterday that it could simply be a fouled plug or something, wouldn't that be nice. I don't think the kind of disruption it's making could be a vacuum leak or the aac messing up so I'm sure I got it all together right. In fact, one of the aac ports that sticks straight up through the intake plenum (I have no idea what it was for) will cause the engine to die immediately if I uncap it. I can hear the bpv kicking off at higher rpm so I'm sure I have that hooked to the right port as well. So pretty much everything, including most of the electrical, that I didn't plan out and have professional blueprints made years in advance (LOL), was smooth sailing up to the engine lighting off successfully first try, it's just that misfire that has me guessing. It seems pretty likely that this and the rich exhaust symptoms are from the same source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 Awesome.... it's running at least. You'll get it figured out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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