getoffmyinternet Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 Awesome man. I look forward to reading it. I too took a bunch of pictures and promised I'd do a writeup, have yet to complete one though. Did you post a thread about your findings? I wonder if it is a common problem. Mike, I'll try to take some better pictures with it all in place. I have pictures of the original pieces on here, but not really how they mate each other. Your upside down inlet could work, how much clearance do you have? It seems like it might go a little on the low side unless you're making a u-turn and facing a filter straight up? If I get rid of the mafs like you, I'll probably try to get the filters out front and possibly combined into one though. I guess it just depends on where you have room for your intake to come from. The bpv does go to both turbo inlets. The flange mounted on the front turbo has a short tube coming out the side and the rubber tube that mounts on that upright for the rear turbo has a port on it already, sticking straight out to the side. This port is routed down where it Ts into the other port and up from there to the top of the radiator, accross to the bpv. The black vacuum line goes to a small port on the aac (could just as well tap into the intake plenum) and is a "sensing line" for closed throttle. I'm not sure it works efficiently or not, but the bpv seems to open fine under it's only spring pressure setting when I close the throttle and I don't have any compressor surge or anything, so I'm fine with it. In retrospect, if you've trashed the mafs anyway, you'd probably be better off just blowing it off, wouldn't you? Recirculating doesn't make it more efficient or anything (although I've heard people claim bov's allow unfiltered air to seep into the intake??) -- more like the opposite, but the difference is moot, the biggest difference is just that blowing off will be louder... By the way, what did you use to get your covers so shiny, couldn't have just been a polshing wheel. I've wanted to do that to my ic plumbing and whatnot, especially that rough turbo collector. Oh yeah, my ic was 31" wide before I cut off the inlets I believe. Pretty snug now, barely misses the hood on the corners and hinges at the elbows. People were saying they had to do modifications (like lowering the core relatve to the inlets or something) to avoid the hood and the springs, I don' have springs but it doesn't look like there would be a problem if I did. I think the main thing was that people were trying to get silicone elbows on inlets that went straight out. My solution was to weld on elbows so that the radius is tighter and fits through the holes that are already in the radiator wall. The elbows I got were cast to get that angle, not mandrel bent, you could weld angles out of straight pipe and get the same results though. Even on the case elbows I cut off the straight part of the welded side because I didn't need to slip anything over, just needed it right where the bend starts. It's still pretty easy to install and get the clamps on though, so I was very pleased not having to cut off the core caps and make narrower ones or anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 That would be great if you could take some photos of the final product. I had purchased a HKS BOV but then found out that the Licensing Authorities will not approve a BOV to atmosphere. I therefore have bought a cheap one with recirc to get it licensed (see photos below) Thanks for info on where all the pipes go. Regards unfiltered air into inlet - my HKS did come with a filter for that line so must be something in it? I got someone to do the polishing (cost $500!) so not sure what they used but yes the collectors are rough in standard trim. I like the polished look as it looks more like what the car would have come with regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 I just made an edit, I don't know if you caught it. My only speculation for the bov filter would be that in practice they must not totally seal all the way? Designed not to let air out, but off boost there must be a venturi sucking air in against the spring pressure. Either way it's not like the valve is gaping open and will pick up pebbles or anything. Sad day on the recirc. I guess you gotta do what you gotta, it shouldn't be too much trouble. I never got that venting to the atmostphere deal, it would be one thing if we were blowing off after a carb or something, but I mean, it's warm air for crying out loud, it's even less poluted than it went in because it passed a filter once already am I right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 On a side note, at least your bpv is a racing one. I got mine for about ten bucks, attempted impersonation of a greddy, the other sensing line fitting broke off when I tried to unscrew it. But hey, it works, or at least it's fooling me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 I agree with you what a lot of nonsense over straight air. I am still tossing up whether to weld a fitting on the HKS and let that recirculate. I presume it should be a much better BOV than the other one, should be, it cost 7 times as much! What do you think about the photo below, just welding a small tube on the open outlet of the HKS - I assume that should work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 Hey if you're willing to part with that bov it should work nicely. Mine lined up pretty well with the top of the radiator so I could easily run a tube like that over the top to the other side of the bay. Is it that very end piece that comes off so you can weld on it? Looks roughly the size of the original bpv too. Here's a better demo of my recirc setup. Other than the T part and the elbow (which I lathed out of the plug I was using to be the right fit for the rubber port and welded onto a straight tube), it's just two straight tubes and a couple miscellaneous bend tubes I had laying around -- an elbow, a short 45 and a sweeping 90. I cut the hoses and the tubes appropriately to fudge the desired runs and angles so that the T, elbow, and the tube leading across the radiator where straight shots to each other. Rather than an actual T, you could make an outside leg angle up more and use a 45 instead to gain more clearance, but I just worked with what I had since I already made the T beforehand with a different plan in mind. If there was a market for it I would remake all these parts of mine to resell as a kit. I wonder if anyone would be interested in overpaying for a solid recirculation system? I mean, this could all be one piece if I sat down and took the time to make it an exact fit, but the tig is at work and I don't feel like running back and forth. I was also working on a nice panel filter box for a ram air scoop but the mafs ended up preventing me from using it. Buzz kill again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Hi thanks for the photos thats great. Did you say you would like to buy the racing BOV if I dont use it or the HKS? The photo of the HKS I am just holding a tube that came with the racing BOV, that happens to fit in the hole of the HKS perfectly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 Noice! No I meant if you preferred to use the hks versus reselling it. I don't need one personally, but I know a lot of hondas around here that wish they were us, you could probably get much of your money back on ebay is what I was saying. hks is nice though, I'm not sure it's the most essential of parts. How much did it cost you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 I think it was about Aust $320 whereas the other one was $55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share Posted February 27, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 Okay what the heck. There's always one missing link, and the diff thread didn't mention needing it. My driveshaft doesn't mate the r200! They're different flanges, and yes the flanges are different spline so I can't swap them. The old diff has a larger hole that the driveshaft slips in, and the bolt holes are closer together slightly. I have to take the flange to a machine shop and have them lathe out the center, then make new holes. I'm just glad the r200 flange is round and not square so that I can make that adjustment. Also, it's hard to remember because it seems that first time around i put everything together backwards, but the diff rubber mount was backwards. I could swear the fat end faced back, but the hole was way off for the crossmember. Could my 1972 be a late release 71??? I noticed -- looking back in the diff thread to see if it mentioned anything about driveshafts (and other than needing a longer one for the 71) it didn't -- that it said in a 71 to flip this mount around because those diffs were mounted farther back. But if that's the case, how come my drive shaft still looks like it is the right length? I probably got mixed up, but it just adds to the mystery. Also, I didn't think about it before, but I don't have a sway bar. What years had them? The azcar diff hangars were made to clear the sway bar but it didn't matter in the end. Although they were still necessary to clear the finned cover. Other than that so far so good. Dang. Also, I need no brake shoes and cylinders... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 You need the input shaft from the diff the drive shaft originally mated to. In my case i went to the junkyard and got r32 diff input shaft and swapped the stock r-200 diff input with the r32 diff. worked great. I'm pretty sure i mention this in my so you wanna swap and rb thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Yes I had the same issue, you shouldnt have to machine anything, you just get the right one, which are available regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 So the input shaft from my r180 will go on the r200?? Please advise! Sorry stony, I'm gonna be completely honest with you, I didn't read the whole thing . Although there was a lot of good stuff here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 It's funny I never gave it a second thought because the diff thread didn't mention it even though it discusses a handfull of diff types, I took it that nissan kept the input shafts standard, what was I thinking. From zhome: About Swapping-out The R180 In The 240Z - For An R200 LSD From A 300ZX. The input flange is another story however. You either have to change your drive shaft yoke to match the input shaft on the differential, or you have to change the input shaft on the differential to match the yoke on your stock drive shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 On a side note, keeping with the theme of this thread, any beginners out there will be happy to know that the swap was pretty straightforward thus far. The only thing I'm waiting for now is to gt the driveshaft on. Even if the input shaft can be swapped it will probably be easier just to get the flange machined for 50 bucks or whatever, especially now that the diff is completely installed. The hardest part was probably getting those darn stub axles in -- mostly because I bought used ones from a guy on this forum who apparently had removed them from his car in a manner that didn't suggest planning towards reselling them. Plus you have to decide how to safely get the new bearings in etc if you don't have the "proper" tools. Everything else, that I ironically spared no expense on was straight bolt on. Soon I plan on buying the whole-car poly kit so for now I didn't replace the bushings, which I understand is a big no-no, but other than that I was okay with reusing some of the old hardware. One thing that baffled me was the strap that holds down the diff. I didn't compare the two noses that closely, but they seemed to be the same physical dimensions, but when I put the new one in, that strap had to go. I figure no one has brought it up because that strap is the first thing they throw away, but when I thought live and let live, I realized the nose of the diff was really close to hitting the mount, and may have ended up right up against it after finishing the install. Could the old diff have been that close? Would explain all that clunking people experience that vanishes with the new diff. Also, does everyone else have a bolt that holds the diff mount down or is it just me? It is told as though the nose is allowed to bounce up and down even with the strap in place (albeit very worn and stretched by now) because the mount only holds the nose off the crossmember, as in bolted to the diff but not fastened down or the other way around? People even put a bolt through the nose and the crossmember as sort of a quick and dirty fix I've heard, but from where I'm standing it doesn't need such a thing, unless the problem is that the diff mount rubber will destroy itself if left alone. From the way people had described this mount before, I assumed all that clunking was the diff nose bouncing up and down on the crossmember because of a worn strap, but there is no way that the mount would let this be so because the rubber was fully intact. Am I missing something again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 Perhaps someone who did this already can tell me if the following is normal. The drivers side cv went in fairly easy, it was a snug fit though. To get the passenger side in I had to jack up that corner and sit on the car to compress the spring as much as possible, it was still pretty darn snug, albeit getting into the recess frees up a little space. The directions I got suggested jacking the corner too, so I figured that close of a fit is normal. However, the only worry is that with the spring down there is a good amount of load on the cv and it is hard to turn the passenger side. I know that the weight of the car will keep the spring more compressed than this under most circumstances and the cv won't be as bottomed out, but I was just wondering if it is as close for everyone else, I want to make sure my fitment is typical. Other than that, I'm still waiting on the shop to put in the drive shaft. My friend said it probably wouldn't be that much more to get the drive shaft changed instead of the flange, so I figure it will be worth the extra bucks to have a beefier u-joint instead of that small stock-sized one. I know u-joints are rarely the weakest link, but otherwise I'd just be reverse engineering the input shaft. We'll see exactly how much more it will cost and if it is worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Same issue for me with the CV. The guys who put mine in were so worried about the tight fit that they machined some off to reduce the load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 I want to assume that since it's commonly supported swap that they should be fine so long as I don't go airborne and bottom them out. But on the other hand it could be worse than I thought, I don't want a ticking time bomb. Hmm, I'll have too look for other people's failures with these things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 If they are too long you will push the grease cap out on one end or the other. If you have a way to run the suspension thru its full travel i would try that. I had no issues other then the axles being put together backwards when i have the driveshaftshop build mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.