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handling


Guest Anonymous

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I'm a believer of the Victoracer 700's. I run them on my VG30ET 280Z. 265/46/16's. respectable in the wet..(not rain) Wickedly sticky in the handling department.. The car just wants to turn faster and faster. It ate up corners at a startleing rate, and even ate up my mistakes. Now I'm a long way from taking on Micheal Andretti, but I do have plenty of training and practice under my belt, and know how to drive my Z on a track, and can push the car near its limits. I'm a bit concerned about tire wear, but over the summer, and lots of tire melting launches and demonstrations, they still look pretty much new. 4/32 tread depth I think..

 

It was my only solution for traction in a WIDE low profile tire 16" (widest you can buy for a 16" rim..)

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Originally posted by pparaska:

Nothing. The added weight is enough to make in uncompetitive.

400-500 extra pounds, heck why not just buy another car and race it, ya know? Wait and watch for 70-73 cars if you like, I'm waiting/watching for a 72-73 specifically. Heavier by a tad than 70-71 but they have a rear end placement issue.
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Originally posted by Dan Baldwin:

I've known guys to drive over 400 miles to events on the Victoracers, so I guess they're somewhat streetable.

From what I have heard, this is correct - just avoid rain like the PLAUGE. If you hit rain drive slooooooooooooooooooow and stay off the freeway, or else park it.
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Guest Anonymous

HEY KATMAN that car you were talking about at the begining of this post you said you pull 1.4g on turn 6 (remember) Is that a full race car with a tube frame, cage, and huge fender flares and 12in wide tires or is it only mildly built with normal 7/8in wide rubbers and a small cage??? If you have a web site on that car I would love to see it so I dont have to keep asking you stupid **** about it

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John

I plan on a bunch of suspension work. Want to build a car around the tires, but need to start with the right size tires in the first place. I'm not lost around suspension setups, but most of my experience is with circle cars, same size

tires mandated all around.

 

Thanks

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Originally posted by johnc:

SCCA's Improved Touring class requires stock engine, stock engine internals, stock carburator and intake, etc. The 2.4L L6 engines built by Jim Thompson at Sunbelt are very, very close to 200 real crank horsepower.

 

Or, Keith, has he hit the 200 mark?

Real east coast SAE calibrated 203. I never thought I'd see it in an ITS motor. A couple years ago we discovered something in the header configuration and it took until this year's ARRC rebuilds to figure out how to match the carb side of the equation. As usual, Sunbelt persued the science, not the smoke and mirrors. Kudos to Jim.
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Originally posted by babykyle1019:

HEY KATMAN that car you were talking about at the begining of this post you said you pull 1.4g on turn 6 (remember) Is that a full race car with a tube frame, cage, and huge fender flares and 12in wide tires or is it only mildly built with normal 7/8in wide rubbers and a small cage??? If you have a web site on that car I would love to see it so I dont have to keep asking you stupid **** about it

Like johnc said, typical ITS 240Z. No flares. 8 point SCCA cage, 14x7 wheels, 225-50 Hoosier S03 rubbers, 400/350 spring rates, 5-1/4 inches at the rockers, and SERIOUS shock development. Interestingly ITS rules don't allow the cage to pass through the firewall, so just a strut bar up front. Sorry, no website.
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Regarding the 275/40-17 tires from a handling perspective...

 

When you get below a 50 series tire on a 240Z (or any car really) you are transferring some of the compliance requirements that the tire took care of (from the sidewalls) to the shock absorbers. Some of this is from the stiffer sidewalls and some from the increased air pressures.

 

A common autocross tire size (265/45-16 or 275/45-16) for the Z really needs a set of double adjustable shocks to make them work better then a set of 225/50-15s. I've seen back to back tests that prove this.

 

Without a more compliant shock package a 45, 40, 35, or 30 series tire will tend to skate across small bumps. In addition, you need to reduce stiction and weight throughout the suspension to allow the shocks to work. Think supple, not stiff.

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Thanks John,

 

I know what you are saying, and I would love to run 50-15s, but 225s seem a bit narrow for a relatively light car with 400ft/lbs. torque. Anything wider in a decent tire is impossible to find short of Hoosiers and thats why I'm looking at the 17s.

 

Thanks,

 

Greg Gress

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