Mikelly Posted April 3, 2000 Share Posted April 3, 2000 ....After getting to go spank a 5.0 on Friday night, I spent much of the day Saturday looking at a few issues I am encountering. Has anyone come across hard starting after the car has been driven? Heat soak on the starter? Well I switched to 1/0 gauge wire for the starter to battery, and ground, and I now have installed a heat shield, and a "HOT SHOT" amp booster to the starter solenoide. I haven't had the chance to drive it since installing these few items, but I'm hoping things are fixed now. However, any other tips would be appreciated. Problem two: My Fuel pressure is fluxuating big time. Start it up one time and it reads 5.75# pressure, and the next it reads 11#. Now I have a liquid filled Marshall gauge, and I'm running a Mallory Regulator, but something is amiss somewhere. My first thought is the gauge, and I'm gonna swao that out first, but I'm still perplexed.... Not sure whay to check if the gauge isn't the issue and the regulator checks out.... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted April 3, 2000 Share Posted April 3, 2000 Mike, I read an article about cures for hard starting chevys awhile back. I use a FORD solinoid, the one mounted on the fender, and ran a bus bar across the terminals of my starter (made a small bar out of 16 ga. copper.) You get more juice to the starter. It may fix your problem as well. Also makes it easier to adjust valves when you need to bump the engine over. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Carlissimo Posted April 3, 2000 Share Posted April 3, 2000 Mike, I struggled with this for years (its real hot here in Phoenix). The big wires and the heat shield helped, but the solenoid close to the starter ("the Ford Solenoid")was the final fix. My theory is that there is too much resistance in the power wire that kicks on the starter solenoid. The wire runs from the battery all the way to the ignition key and then back to the starter. When it gets hot the resistance goes up, it doesn't allow enough juice thru to power the starter solenoid. I haven't had a problem since I put a small solenoid between the battery and the starter solenoid, shortening the run of the starter solenoid power wire from about 20 feet to about 2 feet. -------- Carlo Rao 327 5-Speed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 3, 2000 Share Posted April 3, 2000 On the Syclone/Typhoon list this is a common problem. The turbo motors, as you can well imagine, produce lots of heat. Some people have swapped as many as 4 starters in 3 years. So far, some people have gotten by with just rewiring with big gauge wire. Many people run a hot shot and have reported good long term success with it. A remote mounted solenoid as mentioned above also works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RON JONES Posted April 4, 2000 Share Posted April 4, 2000 Mike,last year I had the same problem with my fuel presure, going up and down the same as yours.In my case it turned out to be the regulator.You might want to check it out.I,m wondering,when you say liquid filled gauge,is it filled with gas like a regular mechanical gauge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 4, 2000 Author Share Posted April 4, 2000 Ron, Gauge seems to be filled with some type of oil...like the Autometer units. I hope the new unit I ordered today cures it. Which regulator did you finally go with? Also, for the Ford Solenoide what part number or make and model do I get it off of? TIA Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted April 4, 2000 Share Posted April 4, 2000 Mike, I just asked for an early Ford solenoid. Truck, Mustang, I don't recall. The part # on mine is : D2AF-11450-AA Motorcraft REM. If they make a heavy duty model go with that. Anyone else have a current #? The wiring is: Battery cable to the front terminal of the solenoid(toward front of car when mounted on the fender) Back large terminal to the starter. This can be really short if you mount it low. (you can see mine in my engine pic, right behind fuel regulator) Solenoid wire goes on the S terminal. The I terminal you leave empty. Fabricate a bus bar to join the large battery terminal on the starter to the starter's solenoid terminal. The one you'd jump across to activate the starter. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted April 4, 2000 Share Posted April 4, 2000 I have the one from Summit. Part number SUM-G1750 for $25 bucks. Same thing as a Ford solenoid. One thing that gave me problems is my starter, the S terminal is a spade-push-on type, not a bolt sticking out the back of the starter solenoid. This meant I couldn't use the S-to-Batt post bar mentioned by someone else. I'm gonna connect them with a heavy gauge wire with the appropriate connectors on both ends. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RON JONES Posted April 4, 2000 Share Posted April 4, 2000 I have a BG 4-PORT.The mallory you have,is it the big black octogon one,or is it the smaller aluminum one.If its the small one,a freind of mine had problems with it.He swicthed to a BG 2-port,and hasn,t had a problem since.Barry Grant makes a very nice product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 4, 2000 Author Share Posted April 4, 2000 ....I have the Mallory aluminum 3 port unit that comes with the 140 series pump. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to spend the $100 on the BG unit. I have a BG Sportclaw 750 carb that I love, so if this issue doesn't go away, I'm gonna have to order the BG unit. So far the car is starting ok. I got it out of the garage and washed 4 months of dirt off it (Sitting in the garage and having dirty hands on it...) But the real test for starting will come this Friday when I drive it in to work. You guys talk about a bus bar, could you just run 2 guage wire from the S to the B terminal? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 4, 2000 Author Share Posted April 4, 2000 Just ordered the Summit Remote Starter Solenoide for the hard starting issue....$25 is cheap insurance! Have to address the whole regulator issue next... I have a call into Mallory on the regulator... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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