abes Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Any of you guys had any experience with the manifold on a n rb25det? I've read that a few of you have had issues with the steering shaft hitting the turbo in the Z's. I'm putting it in an '83 zx so hopefully It'll clear it. Last night I was mocking up the motor on the engine stand and I noticed when I tried bolting up the exh. manifold the studs were too long for the bottom section of the runners..... Do I need to remove the studs and replace them with bolts?? Those things are a pain in the a$$ to get to, and thats on an engine stand..I can't imagine having to remove or install that manifold while the engine is in the car. So far everything that has to do with manifold has been going against my keeping it simple theory 1) I still don't know if it is going to fit in the car once i get it bolted on. 2) I have to weld a t3 flange for my gt35r. The manifold is t4 flanged. Thats what happens when you get exited, you think your getting a good deal and tend to put little thing aside. 3) I found a hairline crack on the bottom o one of the runners after having it for about 6 months. 4) It's a lot heavier than I thought. Do guys think it's worth it??? I still have my stock manifold, which I really don't want to use. There's something about the turbo/ manifold that just doesn't look right and I'd like to get as much as I can out of my turbo. I'm stuck, Any ideas???????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianz Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Just a thought, if the HKS is a really tight fit you might want to look into a ebay tubular header, I got one for about 200$ and it seems pretty good. I had to do some small adjustments to it to get it to fit up right but after that it was all good. If you got a top mount it might be easier to fit it in. Good luck Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Ebay exhaust manifolds fail like crazy, and I would not go that route. What power are you looking for? There is no inbetween for quality. You either run stock (which suits alot of guys like me) or full header like they are using on nico for 1k dollars or so. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abes Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 Thanks for the info on the intake Evan. As far as power, I'd say around 450. I'm running a lot of the usual stuff: gt35r, deatchwerks 650cc injectors w/custom fuel rail, haltech e11v2, arh head studs, cometic head gasket, greddy intake, stock internals, blah, blah. I don't have the $$ to spend on a custom header. This keeping it simple project is going "WAY" over what I expected. I was even debating on selling everything and going for a stock rb26, but you know how that goes. I'll be right back on the same boat Problem is, I try to do things the right way whenever possible and funds providing. By that I mean I try to stay away from shortcuts or the "just for now" theory. Thats why I try to get as much info from here as possible. It's been a life saver for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 450hp? Use the stocker. Glad I could provide SOME help. I have had my swap for quite some time now, and don't wanna see anyone make the same mistakes. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Last night I was mocking up the motor on the engine stand and I noticed when I tried bolting up the exh. manifold the studs were too long for the bottom section of the runners..... Do I need to remove the studs and replace them with bolts?? Have you thought about cutting the stud, so the its just long enough to hold the nut and washer ? Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 dont slide the manifold all the way back onto the head. barley put it on the stud and start that bolt first... tightening it down will bring the manifold toward the head and the nut will end up down on the shaft... lol that sounds funny cast is weldable but expensive...... and not many people know now to do it correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 dont slide the manifold all the way back onto the head. barley put it on the stud and start that bolt first... tightening it down will bring the manifold toward the head and the nut will end up down on the shaft... lol that sounds funny cast is weldable but expensive...... and not many people know now to do it correctly. I was going to suggest a combo of what both you and nigel suggested, but then I noticed that the manifold actually looks like there's not enough room on the side of the stud for a nut there, or even a washer.. almost as if it's been casted slightly askew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 Problem is, I try to do things the right way whenever possible and funds providing. By that I mean I try to stay away from shortcuts or the "just for now" theory. There should be a warning banner on every RB thread because of that same problem everyone has. Don't worry about it man. There's no rush, is there? Feed it a little at a time, and it won't bark for a refill as often =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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