capt_furious Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 (just to preface this, I did search, both here and in numerous places on the web) Discovered this today after trying to figure out why my plugs were so fouled on #1, 2 and 3 and the other three looked fine. Turns out setting the choke makes the jet plunger stick in the down position, causing rough idle, stumbling and really bad mileage. Giving the plunger a tap upward resets it and the car runs fine. Can I just lube the plunger to get it to move more smoothly? Is there a preferred lubricant for this application? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt_furious Posted January 22, 2008 Author Share Posted January 22, 2008 ...Bueller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrSideways Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 (just to preface this, I did search, both here and in numerous places on the web) Discovered this today after trying to figure out why my plugs were so fouled on #1, 2 and 3 and the other three looked fine. Turns out setting the choke makes the jet plunger stick in the down position, causing rough idle, stumbling and really bad mileage. Giving the plunger a tap upward resets it and the car runs fine. Can I just lube the plunger to get it to move more smoothly? Is there a preferred lubricant for this application? Thanks in advance. See if the choke cable is in a bind on the front carb. You can loosen the clamp screw and then see if the tube goes up and down freely. If so then lube with ZEP 45 (teflon spray) and find a spot to tighten the screw clamp where the action feels much as it did while free from it. You should also look at the rear one to get both to have close to equal actions. Another thing you might want to do is move the choke handle back and forth while they are disconnected from the carbs to make SURE it is smooth. Also an great time to squirt some ZEP 45 down the cable. Leave the ends pointing well up in the air and have a tall cool one while letting the lube drain down the sheath. Wipe with clean paper towel and assemble as descibed above. Hope that helps, Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 The linkage rod that connects the choke to the linkage of the carb is binding which causes the choke to hang open. With your fingers pull the jet down then try to rotate it just a little bit, release it and see if pops back up, if not see if the binding is better or worse, if better tweak it a little more in the same direction, if worse tweak it in the other direction. Be careful and do not force it you only need to put enough effort to make a very minor change. If you force it you are taking a very real chance of breaking the plastic where the screw holds the link to the jet. If you can not get the link to change shape at all or it continues to bind no matter what try using a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the link slightly at the point in the link where it is already bent. Again remember very gentle bends it is very easy to over do it. Almost forgot what you should check first is that the linkage is not binding on the screw that connects it to the jet. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I've even added a light spring to mine in the past. I got myself a couple long mild springs and connected one end of each to the screw that holds the jet/lever in place, then stretched it up to kinda where the cable retainer is, and that gave it just enough tension that it returned each jet all the way up when the choke lever was released... Thats not the correct way to fix a sticking jet nozzle, but it works until it can be done the right way... As much as gas cost now, a sticking choke nozzle will cost you big time, quick like, using all that extra fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt_furious Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 Thanks for the help, guys. I'll try a combination of all of the above. My primary concern was gumming up the carbs with lube where it shouldn't have been. ...thus far, my solution has been to get her started, then back off the choke, pop the hood, and hop out to give the jets a tap upward. That gets pretty tedious after a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260zShooter Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 You may also have some sort of contamination between the nozzle and sleeve. The nozzle is the part that drops down when the choke lever is pulled. The sleeve is the piece that the nozzle slides up and down in. You have to do a little disassembly to get these two pieces apart. I have used 0000 grade steel wool a carb cleaner as a rinse to clean these brass parts. These pieces should move very smooth and easally. Some Brasso will work too. You may also want to make sure that your needles are not bent. They should drop directly in the nozzles with no binding. No lubrication should be used on these parts. It will only allow dust and dirt to stick to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 You may also have some sort of contamination between the nozzle and sleeve. The nozzle is the part that drops down when the choke lever is pulled. The sleeve is the piece that the nozzle slides up and down in. You have to do a little disassembly to get these two pieces apart. I have used 0000 grade steel wool a carb cleaner as a rinse to clean these brass parts. These pieces should move very smooth and easally. Some Brasso will work too. You may also want to make sure that your needles are not bent. They should drop directly in the nozzles with no binding. No lubrication should be used on these parts. It will only allow dust and dirt to stick to it. You sound like you've done some watch and clock repair work, very few people realize that lubricants actualy atract dirt etc. You are also quite correct about the needles. The best way to check the needles is to remove the dome above the piston, carefuly lift out the piston, using good light rotate the piston around so you can see all sides of the needle and make sure there are no marks or signs of abrasion or rubbing. If you see any signs of wear on the needle that means the needle is bent and should be replaced. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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