91_4x4runner Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 I bought the car back in August from a guy who was moving overseas. According to him, the car had a bad fuel pump and fuel pump relay No biggie, I bought a new fuel pump and just got around to installing it today. Instead of fighting with finding a new relay, I just bought a switch and wired the pump directly. (tested for 12V, was fine) I re-hooked all fuel lines, flipped the switch on, and I can hear the pump pumping. I know I've got spark because I tried shooting some starter fluid in it and got it to fire a little. I figured there was a problem with air pockets in the line (I put 5 gallons in it as well today; should be plenty to start it). Next, I disconnected the fuel filter to let air out of the line. After standing there for a moment, it started to shoot some fuel out. I re-hooked it and cranked the car over, still nothing. I figure that the problem is that no fuel is getting to the rail itself, but how do I bleed the air from the rail? If I'm way off base, please offer suggestions, I'm open to anything. Thanks, Eric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 what did you do in the way of testing for spark or proper fuel pressure? perhaps the ignition coil is fubar'd, the spark plugs are gunked, or the fuel pressure regulator is stuck too far open.... remove the rail bolts and test the injectors into a bucket if you have to, or set up a jig. thats where i'd check first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dig280z Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 what year is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91_4x4runner Posted February 3, 2008 Author Share Posted February 3, 2008 Thanks for your comments Careless, I'll try the measures you suggested. I know I've got spark because it fired when I sprayed starter fluid in. The car is a 1978 280Z. L28, fuel injected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 make sure the injectors are getting power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 also, make sure the Water Temp sensor is testing right. if it's shorted out along the wire, the injectors wont fire and it'll never start. make sure you clean all the contacts. if the water temp sensor is corroded, it'll put out such a high resistance that the car will flood out. check to make sure the injectors are pulsing when you're starting the car, and check to make sure the water temp sensor is putting the right values to the ECU. you really shouldn't have to bleed the fuel rail. in a fuel injected system the pressure is so high that it should force any air out of the system. I'd say make sure that fuel is getting to the cylinders. if it tries to start with starter fluid, that rules out a spark issue for the most part. but we don't know if you're getting fuel. I'd check the injectors first like MJ said. if they aren't getting power then maybe the water temp sensor has soemthing to do with it (i don't remember if having the temp sensor off cuts the injectors off, but i know it won't even attempt to start with it shorted/unplugged) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91_4x4runner Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share Posted February 5, 2008 Alright guys. I'm stoked, but I feel like an idiot. I've been fooling around with my car since I got home today and was trying everything possible. The issue of the line being clogged is now gone and it gets good pressure. I found that the injectors weren't getting any power when I checked it with my multimeter. I didn't have much of an idea of what to do, so I went straight to the relay box by the battery. Once I looked inside, it seems that there are two relays missing. One for the fuel pump (which is now wired and toggled via switch), and one for the FI. I bridged the two most likely wires, cranked the car, and it started! It started for the first time since I've owned it (and dang its loud!). I'm heading down to Autozone to get a switch to replace the relay. (Think this is a bad move?) Thanks for the suggestions y'all. Take care, Eric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 its a good feeling when she fires up after being down isnt it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Alright guys. I'm stoked, but I feel like an idiot. I've been fooling around with my car since I got home today and was trying everything possible. The issue of the line being clogged is now gone and it gets good pressure. I found that the injectors weren't getting any power when I checked it with my multimeter. I didn't have much of an idea of what to do, so I went straight to the relay box by the battery. Once I looked inside, it seems that there are two relays missing. One for the fuel pump (which is now wired and toggled via switch), and one for the FI. I bridged the two most likely wires, cranked the car, and it started! It started for the first time since I've owned it (and dang its loud!). I'm heading down to Autozone to get a switch to replace the relay. (Think this is a bad move?) Thanks for the suggestions y'all. Take care, Eric. i believe you're missing the silver "Jecs" relay. not sure if you should use a switch for that. I think it's supposed to shut the car off in case of an accident, so the fuel pump doesnt spew gas onto open flames or keep the engine running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91_4x4runner Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share Posted February 5, 2008 The fuel pump is wired up through a switch inside the cabin and is in easy reach of my hand. Here is a picture of the plug that I bridged to get it to run: Also, I've got many bad vacuum leaks... Does anyone have suggestions on hoses that can be eliminated from the system to make it more simple? Thanks again, Eric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91_4x4runner Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 Hey guys, I've got a new issue. High idle. After some testing, it turns out that a few of my injectors were bad (replaced 'em). Then, I soaked the injectors all night in some carb cleaner. When I pulled them out, there was all sorts of muck and crap in the bottom of the container they were soaked in. While I was pulling the fuel rail off, the water temp sensor (single wire) was wired through the fuel rail and it was so corroded that I couldn't get the plug off. Rather than fight with it (it was around 9PM), I just cut it with the intent of splicing it back together later. I dried them all today and put the fuel system back together. I reconnected all of the injector and spark plugs (correctly). I turned the pump on, let it re-pressurize the system, and cranked it. It fired up after a moment and idled so smooth.... at 2100 RPM's. As I said, I spliced the wire for the temp sensor back together (just by twisting it, my soldering iron is at school), but it doesn't read anything. Its now running on all cylinders and would run fine if it wasn't so rich. Soldering the connection should give me a perfectly good read, correct? Otherwise, I guess I need to replace the thermo sensor? Can you tell me what I might have missed? Thanks, Eric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 did you adjust the idle speed screw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91_4x4runner Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 I haven't touched the idle speed screw (haven't got a clue where it is to begin with). In addition, the engine gets warm fast (by touch) and when I rev it, it doesn't come down quickly like a normally operating engine would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 ok, well the idle speed screw is above the TB, get a manual or search for a pic, for the heat issue check the thermostat, they are cheap and it sounds like it could be the culprit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91_4x4runner Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 I'll replace the t-stat tomorrow and see if it makes any difference. I think it'd also be the reason why my temp gauge has quit working (besides the wire being re-spliced) since no coolant is going to the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 I'll replace the t-stat tomorrow and see if it makes any difference. I think it'd also be the reason why my temp gauge has quit working (besides the wire being re-spliced) since no coolant is going to the block. if your not sure that thats the problem or not there is not point in spending any money on a new one, even if it is cheap, just remove it it and see if that fixes the problem, if so, replace it, if not, keep looking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91_4x4runner Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 I've got a spare block that I've been salvaging parts off of as I need them. I can always try the t-stat in it and see if it works. If it doesn't, no problem. While I was at it today, I also replaced the wires (from the t-stat wires to the butt connectors) and it made no difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91_4x4runner Posted February 12, 2008 Author Share Posted February 12, 2008 It seems that every time I fix one problem, I run into another one. I found that the water temp sensor (2-wire) was busted. Broken plastic. No biggie, I replaced it with the spare I had. I fooled around with it for about 20 minutes trying to figure out what might be wrong. I decided to look at the spare intake manifold I had to look for any connections I might've missed. Turns out, the connection for the idle air control was on the plug, but not completely seated, causing it to idle horribly. I adjusted the idle a little bit and it ran great. I come back 20 minutes later so my dad could hear it run and tried to crank it. Nothing. It seems I have a short or bad fuse or something somewhere. When I turn the key to the on position, the tach registers 2300 rpm's (without cranking). I tried another battery and the same thing happened. Nothing, nothing changed at all between the times I fired it successfully and now that its failing. When I turn the key to the start position (cranking), everything goes dead. Lights out, all meters register 0 including the voltage gauge). I know it's impossible to get a straight idea on what the issue could be, but does anyone have ideas? I just want to say that this sucks. Peace all, Eric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 In a guess, your ignition wireing could be grounding out, but thats only a guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91_4x4runner Posted February 13, 2008 Author Share Posted February 13, 2008 Alright, I tested all my fusible links (at the terminal) with a voltmeter. 3 of the 4 tested 12.8V. I also tested for continuity and got no reading. When I turn the key, everything returns seems to go dead. No crank, lights go off, gauge in the cluster shows 0V. I've got no idea what this link goes to. If you look in the above picture, its the 2nd one from the front (solid black behind the orange-wire one). Can someone give me an idea of where I should look for a short? Thanks, Eric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.