Jump to content
HybridZ

91_4x4runner

Members
  • Posts

    154
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 91_4x4runner

  1. Yup, I was planning to try the gas can method next time I'm near the car (hopefully soon). Thanks for the info on the acid.
  2. Where did they find it? Is there going to be a news article online about it? Details!
  3. I figured I should update this thread after its long hiatus. I'm still not sure that the ECU is good, but I can say with almost 100% certainty that I have a clogged fuel tank (happened progressively). The fuel pump is drawing a decent amount of vacuum but the with the tank feed line disconnected (and 10 gallons of fresh gas in the tank), I'm getting no flow. I'm going to drop the tank next time I'm in San Antonio and clean it up. Hopefully this will solve some of my issues. I've read that the best way to clean it out is with muriatic acid. Where's the best place to get some?
  4. Even still, being a young whippersnapper myself (20), seeing the cars in the two videos posted in this thread makes me want to throw up my pancakes...
  5. I can understand a "perfect" Z going for a good high price. My girlfriend's uncle has a cherry 73 240Z. He bought it brand new during his stint in the Army. It is literally perfect on all corners. It sits in a garage 24 hours a day under a car cover. I could easily see it going for 20K. Maybe, one day, I'll get to drive it.
  6. Yes, I have fuel pressure. I had a clogged fuel rail at one point, so I removed the whole setup and swapped in another fuel rail. After that, I assumed my problem was the fuel injectors themselves, so I bought a brand new set. The system is partially working, because the cold-start injector fires once when cranking. However, no fuel comes out of the return line regardless of pressure duration or cranking. Most of my relays are bad and I had hard-wired them for the time being (bad idea, I know, but should work in theory). My fuel pump is also hard-wired to a switch for the time being (another bad idea, I know). I also replaced my drop-resistors with a junkyard set. I need to simply devote more time to it, but a noid light should help in diagnosis and I believe a new ECU may solve the problem. Thanks for all your help. Sparky, can you PM me your information? I should be making a trip to SA this coming weekend (November 6-8). Perhaps I could purchase that ECU from you. Thanks, Eric.
  7. I hope to keep this post from getting too drawn out, but here's my issue. I've got a 1978 280Z that I began rebuilding over the summer. I stripped and rebuilt the suspension with new parts and bushings. I swapped to 4Runner front brakes and Mustang rear brakes. I disassembled almost everything from the engine back and put it back together. Here's a photo for reference: The drivetrain is practically finished minus a few nuts and bolts. However, after doing all that work, I began focusing on the engine. I cannot get the bloody thing to start. I've checked all the connections from the EFI bible and the Z Tech manual. Everything tests within range at the ECU connector, but the damned thing just won't start. It seems to me that the injectors are not firing at all (nor do they show positive voltage when the ignition is on). This leads me to believe my issue is with the ECU itself. Is there anyone out there with some knowledge or some free time to help me out with my car over the winter? Does anyone have a spare 280Z L28(manual) ECU for sale in the Texas area? I'm currently in College Station and the car is in San Antonio; I'm just trying to formulate a plan to get my car on the road soon. Thanks y'all, Eric.
  8. As the title says, I need a stock ECU for my '78 280Z. Obviously, it needs to be functional. Let me know if you've got one. Thanks, Eric.
  9. It's a longer car with a longer wheelbase and probably less wheel angle at full lock. It's a characteristic of the car that probably isn't worth attempting to change. I imagine you'd have to make huge modifications to DECREASE your overall turn radius.
  10. I don't mean to bump/triple post, but I need to know what kind of signal I should see at the injectors... Some sources say 12V; I don't have that. I see no voltage change while the ignition is on or the engine is cranking. It stays at 0V.
  11. What kind of signal should I see at the injectors? Should they have 12V? Should they read a certain resistance? I replaced my drop resistors and it didn't help. I'm hoping my computer isn't broken, but its starting to look like it is...
  12. Alright. Found the EFI relay on the 78. Its on the relay bracket under the hood. I was reading the wiring diagram to be Blue/Green instead of Blue(switch wires)Green. Obviously, I'm an idiot. After that was over, I retested my relay. Turns out, it doesn't make a 100% connection and the ground is flakey on it. I rigged it up and tested at the ECU. I'm getting a good 12V at all fuel injectors and ECU power. However, when I test at the injector connectors, I get 0V with the key in any position. Shouldn't I be getting some voltage in the ON position or while its cranking? I guess this limits everything down to my ECU or the dropping resistors.. Anyone have any ideas or information they could share? I *assume* my ECU is alright since my cold start injector will fire when the engine just starts cranking.
  13. As it turns out, the 77 EFI relay is different from the 78 EFI relay. According to my manual (Haynes or Chilton, can't remember which), the 78 model has a smaller EFI relay with fewer pins and uses other relays (Fuel pump relays 1 & 2) to control other things. Problem is, I'm missing my Fuel Pump 2 Relay and still can't find my EFI relay according to the colors and wire diagrams. I've disassembled, tested and reassembled just about every relay I can get my hands on under the dash. None of them make a difference. I'm going to pick-n-pull tomorrow to find a new drop resistor. It might not work (as much of my pick-n-pulls stuff is crap) but who knows. I feel like pushing my car off a cliff....
  14. I found the area where its supposed to be installed in the car. I see the mounts for it, but it simply isn't there. Again, I don't see any unused plugs either. Did the location change on the 78 model? The closest thing I could find to a "double relay" unit (2 relays in one box) is in the engine bay in the relay box by the battery. However, it only has 5 plugs.
  15. The fuel pump relay in the engine compartment was buzzing before. It isn't since I took it apart and verified that it functioned correctly. However, I can't find any sort of EFI relay. There doesn't seem to be any relay or spare plugs above my ECU. I'll take a picture to show you, but all there seems to be is the ECU and chassis behind it. I feel like a complete moron. In other news, it seems that my cold start injector is firing (though according to the wiring diagram, its separate from that relay). The car wants to crank over for the first few turns of the starter but goes back to just cranking (fuel-less sounding) after that. I hate my fuel injection.
  16. Checking in again. The relay that was buzzing seemed to be grounding on its casing. I just took it apart, checked that it was functional and put it back together. I have it re-energized and it seems to be working perfectly now. Also, I tested and found that I'm getting 0V to the injectors whether cranking or not. The one thing that I forgot to check was between the positive lead and a different ground. My troubleshooting leads me to believe that either the EFI relay or the dropping resistors are going bad as these are the only things between the computer and the injectors. Of course though, my computer could be bad too.
  17. I haven't verified with a light. I'll do that. The flap inside the AFM does move freely. The gas is less than a month old. I don't have an actual measurement, but I've made several f-ups with the fuel. IE: Forgetting to reconnect the line and watching gas shoot out & disconnecting the line while still under pressure. I have given each injector 12V and they all click as well. I'm thinking it must be a relay or the drop resistors.
  18. Yes, I guarantee I'm getting good fuel pressure. Yes, I'm sure I have spark. I guess I should mention that the car will start/run off starter fluid. It's got about a 1/2 tank of gas as well... I have not tested the AFM through its entire range, but it tested fine by the EFI bible. I'll do that next. I'm sure that I'm not messing with the wrong circuits, but my car seems to be a hackjob in wiring. All signs point to go but my injectors just aren't firing.
  19. Not sure. I've got a second one that I purchased from a guy on the forum (from a running car). I've tried getting the car started with both of them and had no luck.
  20. I haven't been able to get my car started for some time. I purchased it "not running" but was able to get it to *barely* idle for a while. To premise further, when I purchased it, I was told that the fuel pump relay was bad. No biggie I thought, I'll wire it directly. So I did. It would crank over and idle, but I couldn't get it to stay running. I pulled off the fuel rail, thinking I had a fuel problem. Lo and behold, my fuel rail was clogged. A year later, I started working on the engine again. I replaced the fuel rail with an unclogged one and replaced all the injectors with brand new ones. The SOB still won't start. I ran through every test on the EFI bible as follows: Idle Throttle Switch - reads correctly Full Throttle Switch - reads correctly Air Flow Meter Resistance #1 - reads correctly Air Flow Meter Resistance #3 - reads correctly Air Temperature Sensor Resistance - reads correctly Water Temperature Sensor Resistance - reads correctly Control Unit Ground Circuit #1 - reads correctly Control Unit Ground Circuit #2 - reads correctly Control Unit Ground Circuit #3 - reads correctly Control Unit Ground Circuit #4 - reads correctly Ignition Coil Trigger Input Circuit - reads correctly Control Unit Power Input Circuit - reads correctly Injector Circuit #4 - reads correctly Injector Circuit #1 - reads correctly Injector Circuit #5 - reads correctly Injector Circuit #6 - reads correctly Injector Circuit #3 - reads correctly Injector Circuit #2 - reads correctly "Start" Signal Circuit - reads correctly Cold Start System Circuit - reads correctly Air Flow Meter Resistance #2 - Reads 153 ohms, says it should read "small resistance" Air Regulator Circuit - Should read 12V, I got 3V Air Flow Meter Fuel Pump Contacts - It says test pins #10 & #20 but my wire harness to ECU doesn't have a pin 20... Fuel Pump Relay Circuit - Pin 20 to ground - Again, I don't have a pin 20... Air Regulator and Fuel Pump Circuit - 17 mega-ohms initially, but more on this... I followed everything straight by the book. I had only 2 things that pointed to a single system being bad, the Air Regulator. I went through and traced where the Air Regulator connects to. Turns out it connects with the fuel pump circuit at one point. Since I had rewired the pump directly, I wasn't making a ground for the Air Regulator anymore. I created one and the "Air Regulator and Fuel Pump Circuit" tested 60 ohms. Seems Respectable enough for that. Once I turned the key on though, it energized the relay in the engine bay. It started buzzing pretty loud so I quickly flipped it back off. I'm not sure exactly what this relay controls other than the fuel pump, but those things are hard to find. The Air Regulator circuit however, I couldn't get a better reading from. Not sure what the issue is with that other than a bad Air Regulator, though a spare that I hooked up in "mid air" (just plugged it in, not specifically grounded to the engine) read 0V. I guess I need to go and test components specifically... I still can't figure out what the hell is going on... Anyone have ideas? Also, the clutch master cylinder is blown. Would the neutral/reverse switch keep the car from starting? Thanks y'all.
  21. I must be having some sort of issue with fuel control now. A slight squirt of starter fluid can get this thing running for a few seconds. While cranking, I can hear the injectors clicking, but I guess they aren't flowing any fuel. The cold start injector clicks when it gets 12V.
  22. Getting closer I think... I changed the timing 180 degrees (from 1 at the 3 o'clock position to 1 at the 9 o'clock position from the drivers side of the car). Probably not remotely correct for setting it up, but it actually wants to fire up now... She seems to be starving for fuel before cranking up. It might be my cold start injector OR air in the line still...?
  23. She still won't start.... I have good fuel pressure (judging by how it REALLY flows from the hose) and I already shocked the ♥♥♥♥ out of myself once, so it has spark. Several questions... What exactly is required for the L28 to start (electronics wise)? I have the AFM, injectors, spark, fuel pressure (though its hooked up via a switch). I'm missing several relays from the box near the battery, but she cranked over before and *sort of* ran (a year ago) ... Am I missing something? My clutch master cylinder is out, so I can't hold the clutch while I crank it. I leave it in neutral, but does the neutral/reverse light switch keep the engine from starting (it still cranks over...)? Perhaps I need to continue cranking it? Maybe there's still air in the fuel rail? Honestly, I'm stumped. The coil, distributor and spark plug wires are brand new. The fuel rail isn't blocked at all. The injectors are brand new. The AFM looks to be in good condition. What relays and electronics are necessary to get the engine to start?
  24. I notice your sig says CNC parts guru.... We may need to talk about a transmission adapter soon Update: Hit a small snag today. Ran out of 5/16th's fuel line. Gotta get some tomorrow. I got new injectors as well. Found a full set on eBay for 130. The guy was local so I went and picked 'em up. These must've been old warehouse parts because they look brand new. Still in their original plastic wrapping and all. I rewired the fuel pump and got the right size nuts. It pumps like a champ now. Also got the transmission filled up with 20w50 to do a quick flush before putting in my $12/quart Redline MTL. The leaves are *mostly* gone from the engine bay area, though there are still a bunch more in places that the air compressor can't get. The exhaust is also back together all the way. All that crap leaves me with: Hook up the e-brake Get new clutch master cylinder Clean the brake rotors and... Pray to God she'll come back to life...
×
×
  • Create New...