Dave's 280z VK56DE Project

[thehelix112]

Just read on some forum that the new megasquirt v3 ECU supports up to 8 ignition outputs! This means I can use it to run the VK56, assuming it has support for the type of signal the VTC wants. Thats great news for me as I was thinking I'd have to upgrade to something fancy (read: expensive) like a Motec or Bosch MS Sport. Yay for cheapness! Will continue investigating this.

 

Also have a potential hookup for getting flanges made for the intake manifold which will also be nice. Issues starting to come together, in theory at least.

 

Dave

 

Update: Excellent! http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=106&t=38363 Open source tuning software. Tuning on my phone here I come.

Edited April 1, 2011 by thehelix112

[thehelix112]

Got the front flares on this weekend.

 

The parts

 

From Classic Datsun Motorsport http://www.classicdatsun.com/

- One set of ZG bolt-on flares: USD210

 

 

The tools

 

General tool-kit and:

- Rivet gun

- 3/16" OD aluminium blind rivets with a a short backside (designed for 1/16"-1/8" is what I used)

- Angle grinder with 4" cut off disc

- Drill and 1/32", 5/32" and 3/16" drill bits

- Safety goggles!

- Flat file

 

 

The procedure

 

Preparation:

 

Step 1. Jack the car up and remove the front wheels.

 

Step 2. Sort out which flare is which. You can tell the rears from the fronts as they are noticably wider, and you can

tell each side from the other simply by trying to fit it to the shape of the body by hand.

 

Note: You might like to put some tape on the flares to do this so you don't scratch your paint. My paint already sucked.

 

Step 3. Put on your safety goggles and drill pilot holes using the 1/32" drill bit into the middle of each cut-out in the zg

flare where the rivets will go. Using a small bit allows more precision as its less likely to wander.

 

 

Step 4. Drill out the hole to 5/32". Then finally out to 3/16". The Reason for the multiple steps is to ensure the

hole is the correct size and not over-sized. This is not super-important, as I later found out, as I needed to open up the

holes a bit to get the rivets through cleanly, but it's easier to open a hole up later if necessary than to fill it back in.

 

 

Step 5. Put some painters tape all around the wheel lips.

 

 

Step 6. Mock up where you would like the flare to go by hand. I focussed on where I wanted the leading edge of the flare

to blend in with the body work (about 6mm below where the front air-dam attaches), and where I wanted the top of the flare to be

in the middle of the wheel for clearance. From these two points you can then bend the remaining section to get a feel for things.

After you have the flare in place, get someone helping you to scribe a line on the tape.

 

I'm not sure if they are designed this way, but to get the flares where I wanted required bending them. I think this is a good thing as

it makes them a lot stiffer and less flimsy. Whether or not they'll last being installed bent I do not know, but will find out I guess.

 

Step 5. Holding the flare in place, get someone to circle in the holes in the zg flares, these will be used as a rough guide to

show you where to cut.

 

Step 6. Using the outer line of where the flares meet the body, and the holes as a guide, scribe a line (I did this freehand)

leaving approximately as much space on the inside of where holes are marked as on the outside. This translates to approximately

3/4" all up. On the leading edge you will likely want to taper this line until it's vertical so it blends in nicely with the air dam. On

the trailing edge, I ended up having a hook-shaped line where it went vertically down until just before the end of the flare then

curved forwards.

 

Go over this line with pen and be sure it is clear, this is your first cut line.

 

 

Step 7. Now comes the most annoying bit of the whole exercise (for me at least). You need to try and get the cut line, and

hole guides as even on both sides as possible. Urgh.

 

I tried a couple of different ways to get what I wanted. I initially tried triangulating the first leading-edge hole so it was in the same

place on both sides, but this ended up putting the leading edge of the second flare a 1/2" further down than on the other side.

 

What I ended up doing was using three main points:

- the leading edge of the flare, and it's relative position to where the air dam joins the front guard

- the top of the flare inline with the centre strut tower bolt

- the trailing edge of the flare, and it's relative position to the crease at which guard curves inwards.

 

Step 8. On the side already marked, measure from the top, inside of the guard in line with the centre of the strut tower, where

it meets your scribed line of where you want the flare to sit (Note: NOT the first cut line). Take this measurement to the other side,

and mark where is. My measurement was 175mm.

 

<DA TODO: PIC>

 

Step 9. By eye, adjust the leading edge of the flare to the same place it is on the other side. Then using this point as a given,

move the trailing edge to approximately the correct position. From there, you can rotate and raise the flare while pressing it against

the guard until it's top edge is on the mark from Step 8. When all three points are as close as you can get them to the first side,

and the guard is still sitting flush against the body, scribe the second mark.

 

Step 10. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for the second side.

 

 

Cutting:

 

Step 11. Put on your safety goggles. The squint technique only gets you so far, then it gets you to the hospital.

 

Step 12. Starting at the trailing edge of the wheel lip, run the cutting disc lightly along your marked line. You want to keep

the disc barely protruding through the steel so you have flexibility to turn it and get a nice smooth arc. I tend to do one light pass to

get the shape I want then go back over it again. Two light passes saw out the sheet metal for me.

 

 

Step 13. If you are going to be installing larger wheels/tyres (which given what you are doing would seem plausible), now is as

good a time as any to trip the rear-inside edge of any front air-dam you have installed to gain clearance for the wheel as it turns.

 

Try and keep this neat with a single downwards cut using the cutting disc through the rubber.

 

<DA TODO: PIC>

 

Step 14. Repeat Steps 11-13 for the second side.

 

Step 15. To avoid realizing you've just cut up part of a 30yo+ classic, stay calm, and file the cut area to remove any sharp bits.

 

 

Installation:

 

Step 16. Now the fun bit. Starting from the leading edge of the flare, hold the flare where you want it to be, put the smaller 5/32"

drill bit through the hole in the flair and drill out the guard.

 

 

Step 17. Then swap over to the 3/16" bit and drill it out to the desired size.

 

Using the 5/32" bit gives you a bit of clearance so you're not touching the flare that much, but still lets you know when you're in the middle.

If you used the smaller 1/32" bit you could easily drill the pilot off-centre and be unhappy.

 

Step 18. Peel away the tape from where the hole is to right before the next hole. You can't peel away the tape once it's riveted on.

 

Step 19. Insert the rivet through the hole and pop it in place.

 

 

Step 20. Repeat this process for all the holes in the flare.

 

 

Step 21. Repeat Steps 16-20 for the other side.

 

Step 22. Put wheels back on. Profit.

 

 

 

I'll update this post next weekend after I go back up and get pics to cover some more steps.

 

Dave

[thehelix112]

Got the rear flares on this weekend with EMWHYR0HEN's much appreciated help.

 

The parts

 

From Classic Datsun Motorsport http://www.classicdatsun.com/

- One set of ZG bolt-on flares: USD210

 

 

The tools

tool-kit and:

- Rivet gun

- 3/16" OD aluminium blind rivets with a a short backside (designed for 1/16"-1/8" is what I used)

- Angle grinder with 4" cut off disc

- Drill and 1/32", 5/32" and 3/16" drill bits

- Hammer

- Safety goggles!

- Flat file

- Welder

 

 

The procedure

 

Preparation:

 

Step 1. Repeat Steps 1-10 from the Front Flare Tutorial above except on the back. The point I measured from as the crease on the `shouler' of the rear quarter to the top of the flare. This was 108mm.

 

 

 

Cutting:

 

Step 2. Some S30 models have wires for the rear tail lights and/or aerial tucked into the rear quarter panels, so you wanna very carefully grind along your cut mark being as careful as possible to not cut deeply. There are also two layers of sheet metal under there, and you only want to cut the first one.

 

 

 

Step 3. Cut a small notch out of the very top of the outer skin and use this to pry or cut the outer skin away from the inner skin. This should also let you see the aforementioned wires and tuck them up and out of the way.

 

 

 

Step 5. Cut slots in inner skin and hammer them upwards towards the outer skin. We did this iteratively so the slots were no bigger than necessary. Another alternative I guess would be to heat it up so the metal will stretch but that seems scary.

 

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sKQBjMWsqgY/Tkgn01DHTPI/AAAAAAAAArQ/LPGMVw7xm20/s1280/IMAG0321.jpg' alt='IMAG0321.jpg'>

 

 

Step 6. Hold the tabs up to the outer skin and mark where they meet on the tabs. You can then trim away the excess material. In the following pic all the tabs are trimmed except the two lower ones on the trailing edge (right side of screen).

 

 

 

Welding:

 

Step 7. Hold the tabs up to the outer skin and tack weld them in place. Work your way slowly around the guard.

 

 

 

Step 8. Wire wheel away the slots you cut in the inner guard, and cut some thin strips of metal wide enough and long enough to cover these slots.

 

 

Step 9. Weld these tabs into the slots so as to ensure the cracks do not propagate.

 

 

 

Step 10. Acetone the area around where the skins join and the slots and then use either seam-sealer or caulk to make it water proof.

 

 

Installation:

 

Step 11. Drill out the holes if you haven't already and pop rivet the flares in place.

 

Step 12. Reinstall the wheel and check for clearance, trimming anything that looks like it will interfere with the tyres, though nothing really should on the rear.

 

These two pics give an indication of how much metal EMWHYR0HEN and I cut out:

Before:

After:

 

The (almost (haven't done step 10 myself yet) finished product:

 

I'm getting a TIG shortly so will then be doing the weld-in camber tops and making some mods/fixes to the rear control arms.

 

Dave

Edited August 23, 2011 by thehelix112

[thehelix112]

Poor L28. Drove it to the valley and on the way back lost power and now a horrible clanking sound coming from the engine. Guess it dropped a piston or two along the way.

Hmm.. PITA to rebuild and get it running again, or motivation to start on the vk56de conversion properly?

 

Dave

[J.Huff]

Great looking project!

 

What color is that? It looks similar to the liquid copper.

[EMWHYR0HEN]

Great progress so far!

[thehelix112]

J.Huff,

 

Thanks dude, it looks much better in pictures when you can't get up close to it. I'm sorry I don't know the colour, PO painted it.

 

 

EMWHYR0HEN,

 

Thanks man. As always, much obliged for the assistance. Finally got around to wire wheeling, caulking and painting the rear wheel well last weekend. Worked a treat.

 

Currently researching clutches, thinking a quarter master 5.5" triple plate atm and chasing a 370z 6-speed to adapt. Lemme know if you stumble across one.

 

Dave

[jthiani]

Looking good ...... hows the plenum coming along??

[jthiani]

your build is looking really good. Im also doing a vk build into a z32 and would be interested in talking with you and maybe sharing ideas. Im Joe btw. Im currently designing and building an adapter plate for the z32 tranny, intale and exhaust flanges and motor mounts. If you could call me at 919-500-0848 that would be great, also if you have not seen this already check out this link.... i would like to make this same plenum

http://www.ffdet.com/members/rich/S14/V8swap.htm

[thehelix112]

Joe,

 

I have seen the S14 swap. I am going a different route with the intake, and not doing a plenum. I'll be running the hayabusa ITBs with no plenum. I do need to start making some progress on that. Plan is to fab up an example of the adaptor I want out of wood and take it around to machine shops and see what they reckon.

 

I'm planning on a Z34 transmission as they're not _that_ much more expensive and I think it'd be nice to have an extra cog in there.

 

Where abouts are you?

 

Dave

[jthiani]

cool dave ..... im in North Carolina. i just got my VK motor yesterday and i will be starting on the adapter plate tomorrow. Where are you located yourself?? I will be following your build as i do mine. i will get my own thread started as i progress .....

[thehelix112]

Joe,

 

Cool. I imagine you'll make much faster progress than I. I am very very slow unfortunately as I have very limited time and I'm a lazy sob.

Look forward to your thread on it.

 

Dave

[seattlejester]

It was an utmost pleasure to read this thread, and the documentation is great and most helpful!

 

Looking forward to the next bit.

[jthiani]

Dave , where are you located???

[thehelix112]

As per profile, I'm in LA.

 

Dave

[thehelix112]

Joe,

 

Pity we're not closer. Oh well, if you're ever out to visit would be great to grab a gear and trade VK stores. Or rather, me just listen to your stories as mine are nonexistent.

 

Dave

[thehelix112]

Got myself a CD009 gearbox from a G35 with around 50K miles on it. The existing adaptors on the market seem unreasonably expensive: I cannot justify spending more for a small piece of alu than I have spent on either the engine, or the gearbox each. I'll be trying to CAD up the specs for a thin metal adaptor and getting it laser cut. CAD file will be available for others to not get ripped off, assuming I get it done..

 

So adaptor plate is the next step, then it's into clutch and flywheel land.

 

Dave

[Forcer]

Liking the progress. After reading this and Jareds thread, it makes me want to do mine right now.

[texis30O]

what work have you done to the motor? Are there many options for the VK performance wise?

[thehelix112]

texis30O,

 

Zero work done to the motor as yet. It will be running hayabusa ITBs and a megasquirt to start with. I've been in touch with nizpro from my home city (Melbourne, Aus) who built a quad turbo 6.0L version of the VK56 for boats about getting a set of cams for the VCT version that will run to around 7500rpm. That and a set of extractors will be the first upgrade. Then assuming that nets somewhere around 500-550hp I'll be focusing on other aspects of the car (and the driver).

 

Dave