Hydraulic throw out bearings

[HarrisonTX]

Isnt a hydraulic throw out bearing the easiest solution?

Add a larger Master, and a hydraulic throw out bearing, and i got it, right?

I am planning on running a Gen I SBC, with a Super t-10.

If i ran a hydraulic throw out bearing i could just run a normal mechanical linkage bellhousing?

Thank you

[Careless]

Isnt a hydraulic throw out bearing the easiest solution?

Add a larger Master, and a hydraulic throw out bearing, and i got it, right?

I am planning on running a Gen I SBC, with a Super t-10.

If i ran a hydraulic throw out bearing i could just run a normal mechanical linkage bellhousing?

Thank you

 

There are a bunch of options for the hydra bearings.

 

The T56 on the new z06 uses one, I've been told, but I'm not sure how the lines are set up for maintenance.

 

There are a couple of things you need to prepare for though. You have to securely feed two relatively thin stainless lines into the bell housing through the pivot fork hole. One bleed, and one feed. And you possibly drill a hole and mount it using a jam nut so that you can easily bleed it, unless you like taking your bell housing off to bleed the system.

 

Quartermaster Clutch sells some units for the T-10 for street/strip applications, as well as race applications with their larger/more aggressive clutches.

[IdfMF]

I have a McLeod hydraulic T/O installed with my Chev 350 and Borg Warner T5. The bearing uses steel braided lines for the bleed and feed lines. Both lines run neatly out of the opening where the old clutch fork used to be. Access to the bleed line is great.

 

I've only driven the car with this bearing set up down the street a few times so I can't give a full account of how it works. So far, it's shifts really smooth.

 

Tom

[BillZ260]

I have the Tilton HTOB w/ stainless braided lines. Was pretty simple to install and bleed, but I did have to increase the Master TWICE before it worked right.

 

Now that it's set though, it works perfectly.

[HarrisonTX]

I have the Tilton HTOB w/ stainless braided lines. Was pretty simple to install and bleed, but I did have to increase the Master TWICE before it worked right.

 

Now that it's set though, it works perfectly.

 

You think you could tell me the size of the master so i dont have to go through the same thing you did?

Thanks guys

[BillZ260]

1" Tilton Master

Tilton HTOB

Ram Clutch Disk and PP

and the T-5 with the camaro rotated bellhousing

 

Any deviation from these parts could mean a different Master.

[IdfMF]

I have a McLeod hydraulic T/O installed with my Chev 350 and Borg Warner T5. The bearing uses steel braided lines for the bleed and feed lines. Both lines run neatly out of the opening where the old clutch fork used to be. Access to the bleed line is great.

 

I've only driven the car with this bearing set up down the street a few times so I can't give a full account of how it works. So far, it's shifts really smooth.

 

Tom

 

I've now put some miles on the car and can say that my hydraulic T/O setup works really nice. Here's what I am using:

 

Tilton 7/8" master cylinder

McLeod 1300 Series hydraulic T/O bearing

Customized Valeo pressure plate

Custom Kevlar/Kevlar disk

T5 World Class

Pro 5.0 shifter

 

Shift action is great and the power comes on in an incredibly smooth manner. I am very pleased with this combo of parts

 

Tom

[Guest ylo73z]

i used to have a super t10 in mine..used a s10 master with camero slave on a willwood scater sheild camero bell housing..it worked.

[blueovalz]

I'm using a 3/4" MC with my Mcleod HTOB. I've no evidence to support this, but I believe the size of the MC is dependent upon the type of pressure plate used as well as the HTOB design. Various pressure plate designs call for a different amount of bearing movement before disengaging the disc. There may also be different effective bore diameters between different manufacturers as well in the HTOBs. So if you decide to go this route, you need to speak to these issues before committing to the purchase of the parts.

 

Pros of the HTOB - Clean transmission tunnel with no slave cylinder or arms. For those with the really low chassis, and higher engine/tranny positioning, this is a real advantage. After that, I saw no advantage. For those with the aluminum front bearing retainers, no need to be concerned about the bearing wearing on the tube because it does not slide on the tube to operate.

 

Cons of the HTOB - Once it's in, if you've not made the correct measurements and adjusted the bearing correctly, the tranny has to be removed to adjust it (well, not always, but I'm not going into the method I used to get around that issue). In particular, if you don't allow for clutch disc wear in your initial install, you'll end up pulling it back out to readjust it later on. Clearance MUST be maintained between the lines and the rotating assembly (or you'll be replacing the lines in short order, which again, requires the removal of the transmission). All of this is usually avoided in a typical SC configuration, but must be considered with the HTOB.

Extra cost for the HTOB (not cheap)

 

Something I found helpful:

Because my configuration is very tight (headers and frame rail completely cover the OEM arm cutout in the bellhousing), I found that drilling a couple of 2" holes in the housing under the bearing allowed me to visually inspect the guts of the whole bellhousing from time to time. This is where you'll see clearances between the PP and the bearing, clearances between the hoses and the rotating assembly, and aids in trouble-shooting any problems should they come up.

[IdfMF]

I worked with Bruce Couture at Modern Driveline to determine the setup that I mention in post #7. Give him a call and tell him what you want to do. I am very pleased with my results. http://www.moderndriveline.com/

 

BTW, I have to second what Terry says above getting measurements correct. I had my engine/tranny out 3 friggin times before I got the HTOB to release. My problems basically stemmed from trying to use an aftermarket flywheel with the pressure plate/clutch disk combo which I later found out was meant for a stock flywheel. Make sure all of your parts are meant to work together.

 

The measurements are very easy to perform on the McLeod bearing. My McLeod unit is self-adjusting, so dealing with clutch wear should not be a big problem.

 

Have fun,

 

Tom

[blueovalz]

The measurements are very easy to perform on the McLeod bearing. My McLeod unit is self-adjusting, so dealing with clutch wear should not be a big problem.

 

And that was what I was told, BUT, the critical point here is that you want the point that the PP disengages the clutch to be toward the end of the HTOB's travel. Why? Because as the clutch disc wears, the fingers of the clutch move toward the HTOB, which decreases the gap, and if the HTOB is adjusted too close to the PP fingers in the initial install, then the fingers will eventually have no gap, and the clutch will start slipping because the HTOB is no longer able to "self adjust".

 

I wished I'd understood this concept when I stabbed the transmission the first time, because I set the gap at about 50 thousanths with the bearing on the stop (or backstop of the bearing). So, after a little bit of wear, the PP fingers eventually moved toward the bearing, and eventually started resting on the HTOB and no longer pulled completely away, leaving a slight amount of pressue on the PP, and thus slightly releasing pressure on the disc.

 

Once I understood this concept, I pulled the bearing back to about 170 thousanths (bearing still on its backstop), which allows clutch disengagement after the HTOB nears the end of it's stroke. NOW, the clutch is self adjusting even after the clutch wears.